ACE Home Inspections, LLCP.O. Box 1993 | |||
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ACE Home Inspections, LLC P.O. Box 1993 | |
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This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.
This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.
EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION,
GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
3.1 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) The items listed below were observed during the roof inspection. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3-The metal flashing around the right side chimney appears to have been recently replaced based on the shiny areas of tin, however both chimneys and plumbing vent pipes that pierce the roof have been covered or surrounded with roof tar. Some of this tar has become aged with small cracks or gaps where additional roof tar is recommended until the roof covering is replaced. At that time the metal chimney flashing should be replaced if determined necessary and new rubber boot flashing around the plumbing vent pipes should always be installed. 4-Tree limbs are overshadowing some front areas of roof. Tree limbs retain or hold moisture and have caused some small green areas of growth to develop on the shingles where trimming and shingle growth cleaning or removal are recommended. 5,6,7,8,9-The roof structure is supporting from 2 to 3 layers of shingles. The bottom layer is aged where it crumbles away and the top layer is estimated to be from 12 to 15 years old based on the somewhat low granule count. There are two small areas of different color shingles along the left half of the front side, one small area along the right half of backside, and along the valleys of the front center perpendicular gable along with some small scattered areas patched with roof tar. 10-The edge shingles along the front left side are deteriorated where small areas of roof decking are exposed. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of new shingles along this edge. Further investigation of overall adequacy of present roof covering and any needed repairs by a licensed roof contractor is recommended. The roof covering appears to be nearing the end of its normal life span, however may last several more years with continuing patching or maintenance. |
3.2 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Some windows are missing a screen and some existing screens are deteriorated or aged with small holes and tears. |
3.3 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the bottom threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. Entry door framing boards are flush with the thresholds and need to be caulked. |
3.4 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The right side chimney crown has some cracking and roof tar patches where the installation of a proper rain cap such as the one in sample picture 3 is recommended. Chimney caps are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, or entire chimney top. It is probably the best investment to protect the entire chimney crown. |
3.5 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) Vinyl siding has been installed over the original wood lap siding boards. This is good, however there are some loose or missing areas which are listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-Loose section of siding to the right of the chimney on the right side just below the lower windows. 2,3-Missing lower siding along right side of the rear laundry room. 4-Loose siding board under the window sill on right side of rear entry door. 5-A loose bulged out area of siding on the left side above the upper front windows. 6-Some areas of siding on the left side which appear loose or bulged out. Further investigation of overall siding adequacy and repairs by a licensed siding contractor are recommended. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 1-The front entry door deadbolt striker hole is not deep enough, preventing the deadbolt from fully becoming engaged. A deadbolt that is not fully engaged in the out position, poses a security issue and can be readily opened with a knife or screwdriver. It is recommended that the striker hole be made deeper. This can easily be done using a small drill bit. (security issue) |
3.7 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There are noticeable gaps between the vinyl siding and the electric meter and panels along the left side where filling with caulking is recommended. |
3.8 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There are missing areas of gutters and downspouts. Repair by a licensed gutter installation contractor is recommended after repairs have been made to the lower edges of roof decking and rafters and soffit and fascia. It is also important to note that a splashblock under or a long vinyl extension to the bottom of all downspouts is recommended to help direct water away from the foundation. |
3.9 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The outer wood window framing boards are covered with aluminum. This is good, however the paint finish of the exterior side of the wood windows and exposed areas not covered with aluminum is aged with peeled and missing areas where scraping and heavily painting is recommended. |
3.10 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Wood window framing has been covered with aluminum with the exception of the two middle areas of the lower right side section of triple windows. |
3.11 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) WINDOW PANE ISSUES: 1-The bottom section of one left side kitchen window and bottom section of the upper level left bathroom window have been boarded. The window panes are broken out where repairs are recommended. |
3.12 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS ADDITIONAL WINDOW PANE ISSUES: There are two cracked window panes in the dining room. There is one cracked window pane in the upper level front right bedroom. There is one cracked window pane with a small hole in the upper level right bathroom. There is one cracked window pane in the second floor stairway landing. |
3.13 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) Vinyl and aluminum has been installed over the open soffit and fascia or lower eaves area. This is good, however there are some areas of moisture deteriorated wood, and loose or missing vinyl and aluminum which are listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit to the right of the right side chimney. 2,3,4-The vinyl soffit to the right of the front center gable above the front porch has dripped down out of place. Some small isolated lower edge areas of roof decking and rafters are deteriorated. 5-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit at the front left corner. 6-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit at the left side front corner. 7-A 12ft missing section of vinyl soffit on the rear corner of the right side. 8,9-An estimated 20ft missing area of vinyl soffit and aluminum fascia on the left half of the rear wall. Some small isolated lower edge areas of roof decking and rafters are deteriorated. *****Repair by a licensed siding contractor is recommended. It should also be noted that all vinyl soffit installed is solid with no soffit vents. Original attic ventilation consisted of lower open eaves areas, as shown in picture 10, where air would enter and move through the attic and out the gable vents. Proper air movement is required to achieve adequate overall attic ventilation where vinyl soffit containing a series of small vent holes or soffit vents every so many feet should be installed. |
ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Attic insulation resistance to heat ratio is R-11 or less where R-30 or better is always recommended which would require the installation of additional insulation. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The main upper attic has two single-pane double-hung window, one in each gable area. The one of the right side has been completely covered with vinyl siding. Original attic ventilation consisted of soffit vent openings in the lower eaves and these two gable located windows. Overall attic ventilation has been drastically reduced to poor to none since the lower soffit vents have been completely covered with vinyl and the windows covered and/or closed. Attic ventilation improvements are recommended and may include but are not limited to the ideas or suggestions listed below. -Removing vinyl siding covering the right side gable located window, then screening both and then leaving then partially open. -The installation of a gable vent above each window which is properly screened to keep wasps, bees, and small animals from entering. -The installation of a couple wind turbines and/or thermostatically controlled roof ventilator fans. *****It is important to note that in additional to any of the above, soffit vents should again be installed. Refer to report section 3.11 for additional information and recommendations. |
KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
5.6 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The T&G floor decking in the entry door area of upper level right rear bedroom has some minor give or a spongy area. 2-House hardwood T&G flooring is overall adequate, however some areas of finish are faded, discolored, and marred. |
5.7 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Upper level hallway bathroom medicine cabinet needs cleaned. |
5.8 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Twisted pair electrical wiring to some device is attached along the side of the second floor stairs where further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited upgrading with new wiring. |
5.9 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The plasterboard installed on the rear wall of the laundry room is unfinished where sanding and painting are recommended. |
5.10 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-The house ceilings were observed to have some areas of discoloration of the type associated from moisture intrusion which are listed below. -Some areas of light brown staining on the short section of wall above the main level front left living room entry way. This is an unknown and could possibly be attributed to the roof leak which caused the staining on the upper front left bedroom ceiling? -An area of brown discoloration in the front closet of the front left upper level bedroom. This most likely was repaired when the different color shingles were installed along the valleys above this area? -Several large areas of brown discoloration in the front left bedroom. This most likely was repaired when the different color shingles and new plywood roof decking was installed above this area? Since it was not raining at the time of the inspection any actual areas of present leakage could not be determined, however it is important to note that previous repairs are evident. |
5.11 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The oven elements are functional however the top or broil element has dropped down out of place and the two left stove top elements would not turn on and glow orange. Repairs by a licensed appliance contractor are recommended, however the unit is aged where unit replacement may want to be considered. |
5.12 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The electrical outlet to the right of the upper level fireplace enclosure is worn where power turns on and off intermittently. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of new 120 volt receptacle. |
5.13 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The upper center bathroom entry door knob needs repairs or replacement. |
5.14 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) The sliding wall doors at the front right main level living room hallway entry are off the track and are hard to operate. |
5.15 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS One outlet in the kitchen and one in the laundry room are missing a cover. (safety) |
5.16 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS The vinyl floor covering in the kitchen is peeled in some areas along the rear seam where two sections join together. |
5.17 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS The electrical outlet in the upper level center bathroom is loose where it moves all around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. |
PLUMBING (Main, Exterior, Water Heater, Washer,
Dryer)
6.6 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The house has been winterized where at one time most likely the water heater was drained. Water heater is electric where breaker for it MUST be kept off to prevent element deterioration when water is not present. The house water supply is not on where inspection of this issue is beyond the scope of the inspection. Recommend water heater inspection and verification of proper operation by a licensed plumbing contractor once water supply is resumed. |
6.7 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The electric water is dated 2001, making it only about 6 years old, however could not be tested for functionality because the copper water piping to and from it has been hastily removed by theft. The unit, based on age alone should most likely be functional once piping repairs have been implemented. The TPR valve does not have a 3/4 inches extension pipe ran to within six inches of the floor where installation is recommended for safety reason. ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. |
6.8 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) Copper water piping located in the basement and crawlspace from the water heater to the main level kitchen and half bathroom have been hastily removed from theft. House water supply can not be resumes until all repairs have been implemented. Further investigation and replacement of ALL MISSING copper water piping by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels,
Exterior)
7.5 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-It is evident in the attic and crawlspace that the original house wiring is knob-and-tube and armored cable. It appears that some of this original wiring is still being used throughout the house for house lighting and outlets. There were places where modern romex was found spliced into the knob-and-tube wiring. It is important to briefly note that knob-and-tube wiring and other types of older wiring is still being used in many old houses. It is generally considered that there is nothing wrong with this kind of wiring, and it shouldn't be condemned just because it is old, however if it is aged and deteriorated where it has not been properly maintained, can be considered a fire and safety hazard. Knob-and-tube wiring consists of two insulated wires run independently a few inches apart. One wire is a hot conductor and the other a neutral return. This is a two wire system with no ground wire. As long as the wire insulation is intact it is not recommended that knob-and-tube wiring be replaced unless grounded outlets are desired. Be aware that it is old wiring and still useable but has no grounds. Knob-and-tube wiring although obsolete, is considered safe. Any system modifications should be made by a licensed electrical contractor. In addition, some outlet receptacles are not grounded as previously mentioned, and as a precautionary measure, they should be used only with appliances that do not require grounding. If sensitive devices, like computers are to be used, it is recommended, but not required, that receptacles be upgraded with grounds which would require replacement of existing wiring by a licensed electrical contractor. Older style NM (non-metallic) cloth cable in existence since the early 1900's. NM cable consists of two or more conductors in a single non-metallic jacket. Two wire cable is called duplex cable. Duplex cable has been around since the early 1900's. Early duplex cable consists of two insulated conductors in a silver-colored jacket or outer cover. Modern NM cable is referred to as Romex and has been in use since 1965. Armored cable perhaps just as old as knob-and-tube wiring is a cable system sometimes called Greenfield or BX cable and terminates in a metal junction box. Armored cable was extremely popular in the early 1900's and consists of a black hot wire and a white neutral wire covered by a spiraled metal jacket or covering. *****Opinions on older wiring may vary among electrical contractors as safe or unsafe. With the determined presence of older wiring, it is always recommended that the entire house electrical system be further investigated for overall feasibility and safety to include all aged push-button type wall wall switches by a licensed electrical contractor. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The front left upper level bedroom has a 240 wall receptacle which was most likely used for a window type a/c unit at one time. The outlet was tested and found functional where 240 volts is present. Recommend a licensed electrical contractor to remove or cover with a blank cover if there are no plans for use because this could be a safety issue for small children. |
7.7 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The ground wire is loose where it clamps onto the ground rod under the main panel along the left wall. repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to tightening present clamp or the installation of a new clamp. The electrical system should be grounded with both a ground rod and to the house copper water pipes. This house was only found to be grounded with a ground wire leaving the main panel to a ground rod. It is suggested but not required, that the system be grounded to both. Water pipes are something to be grounded and are usually not intended to be an actual system ground. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this issue varies between safe and unsafe. I recommend you consult a licensed electrical contractor for an opinion and correct if necessary. |
7.8 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The lighting does not turn on from the wall switches located in the front area of the main level center hallway where the bulbs may be bad? Recommend further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor if bulbs are determined not to be bad. |
7.9 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-There are two breakers in the sub-panel located in the laundry room which have two attached wires. This is refereed to as "double-tapping" , is usually nit allowed and considered a fire hazard. repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to a licensed electrical contractor to moving wires to newly installed breakers. (safety) |
7.10 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The interior cover over the sub-panel breakers located in the laundry room has a small opening most likely from a breaker being removed. This exposes live interior panel voltage and is a safety hazard for small children where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to filling opening with a snap-in type filler plate. (safety) |
HEATING SYSTEM
8.0 | HEATING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The house has two gas furnaces of the same brand and model. The metal exhaust flue pipes feeding into a right side chimney flue cavity are a different size and most likely both should be the same size where further investigation by a licensed heat and air contractor is recommended. |
8.1 | HEATING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Both of the natural gas furnace heating units could not be operated and the burner flame characteristics inspected to determine adequate combustion because the gas supply to house is off at the meter where the furnace manually lit pilot lights are not lit. ACE Home Inspections, LLC follows the Standards of Practice set forth by the Alabama Building Commission, which does not require home inspectors to light flames or pilots to inspect gas appliances. Both of the natural gas furnace heating systems are dated 1989 making them almost 19 years old where they are nearing or at the end of their average life span, however most likely are still functional and could last several more years? This is an unknown. After the pilots are lit, the flames should be a crisp blue, which indicates proper combustion. Some yellow streaking, unless excessive is okay and is usually attributed to dust in the air or aged burners. Excessive orange or yellow streaking indicates inadequate combustion. System service by a licensed heating and air contractor to include evaluation of system combustion is recommended. |
COOLING SYSTEM
9.0 | COOLING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The house has a two separate levels, however presently only the main level has an installed central cooling system. The upper level system has no interior evaporator coil unit located above the gas furnace and no exterior condenser coil unit. However some items have been set in place if an upper level central cooling system is ever desired. A concrete pad and electrical service disconnect switch are installed along the rear wall, however the service disconnect switch needs replaced, and a condensate removal pump used for an interior evaporator coil is installed. In summing this up essentially the components still needed to complete the system, are an evaporator coil unit, condenser coil unit, copper piping, and a new electrical service disconnect switch. If central cooling is desired for the upper level then system completion by a licensed heating and air contractor would be recommended. It should also be noted that it is unknown if copper piping as present and removed from theft. |
9.1 | COOLING
SYSTEM MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The main level central cooling system could not be operated because the copper lines containing system freon from the exterior condenser unit to the interior evaporator unit have been hastily cut and the exterior condenser unit electrical service disconnect panel pull-switch is missing, from theft. Repairs and system service by a licensed heating and air contractor are recommended. |
FIREPLACE, CHIMNEY
10.0 | FIREPLACE AND
CHIMNEY MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The house originally had two wood burning firebrick firebrick fireplaces. Older fireplaces such as these are best suited as a flue for a decorative gas log heater, however a complete inspection by a licensed contractor is recommended if wood burning in the main level fireplace is still desired. If there is to be no future usage of any kind then sealing off the flue(s) at the top of the chimney with a permanent metal cap is recommended. The upper level fireplace firebox has been completely sealed and is now only for aesthetic purposes. *****The front right main level living room fireplace firebrick firebox has some loose rear wall bricks and aged, soft, or missing areas of mortar. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended if wood burning is desired. Any future cracks in the brick or mortar can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. It is always recommended that this work be performed by a licensed chimney sweep or fireplace installation and repair contractor. Annual inspection by a licensed fireplace contractor is always recommended. (Maintenance tip.) |
10.1 | FIREPLACE AND
CHIMNEY MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection on both fireplaces, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
11.4 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The house consists of a center basement surrounded by crawlspace. Crawlspace ventilation consists of two small vents, one on each side of the front porch. The basement and crawlspace wood members are free of major discolorations associated with moisture issues indicating adequate overall ventilation, however robust or additional ventilation is always recommended, but not required. It appears there may have at one time, been additional ventilation around the perimeter. A window located behind the stairs is still present but completely covered, and several other openings previously used as coal supply doors, windows, or vent openings have also been bricked or boarded. Robust overall basement and crawlspace ventilation is always recommended where ventilation enhancements may include but are not limited to one large fan or several smaller fans placed within the boarded up exterior wall areas. (Maintenance tip.) |
11.5 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) CENTER BASEMENT CONSTRUCTION: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Original foundation construction consisted of full stone and mortar and brick and mortar exterior walls, five front wall brick and mortar crawlspace piers under a solid wood 4x10 load bearing beams and two rows of 4 brick and mortar basement piers or posts under solid wood 4x10 load bearing beams. The basement piers or posts are still present and appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration. This is good, however due to some settling and various wood member issues, some additional support posts have been installed, four 4x4 wood posts and three telescoping adjustable columns around the rear left brick and mortar chimney base, some 4x6 wood posts around a rear located brick and mortar pier, and one telescoping adjustable column beside one furnace unit. The following issues were observed: -One of the telescoping adjustable columns beside the chimney base was installed under a single joist. The other three were installed thicker or stronger load bearing beams. A better arrangement would have been to place a short section of 4x4 beam across two floor joists then the column placed under the center of the added 4x4 beam. -A total of 4 telescopic adjustable columns have been installed, which are not approved in the United States for use as a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. *****Recommend further investigation by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs or strengthening enhancements if determined to be necessary may include but are not limited to the installation of a permanent 3 inch diameter steel pipe posts or solid wood 4x4, 4x6, or 6x6 posts that are all on a solid poured concrete footer or footer pad. |
11.6 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) EXTERIOR WALL AND SURROUNDING CRAWLSPACE: 1,2,3,4,5,6-Exterior main house exterior foundation walls consist of stone and mortar and a couple brick and mortar structures to include the right side fireplace base. The front porch foundation walls consist of brick and mortar piers with stone and mortar filler walls between them. The house has a center basement surrounded by crawlspace. Crawlspace piers are located only along the front under the main front wall load bearing beam where the front porch connects and appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration. The front porch floor joists are supported with 2x4 posts, some of which have been recently replaced. This is good! *****The exterior walls appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration with the exception of a short 10 ft section of brick wall where the rear laundry room connects which has some soft and missing areas. Further investigation by a licensed foundation contractor is recommended which may include additional strengthening with a couple steel pipe posts like the ones shown in sample picture 6. |
11.7 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The basement floor has a recessed hole for a sump pump. The basement and crawlspace areas appeared overall dry and free of standing water. The property is relatively level however water may enter in some areas during prolonged storm where it is supposed to drain to this hole. There could also be inherent ground water issues which occur during or after weeks of prolonged rain. The sump pump which is supposed to fit down in this hole and pump water out the left foundation wall appears corroded and was not tested. Recommend system service and possible sump pump replacement by a licensed foundation contractor. |
11.8 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-House wiring is knob-and-tube and aged where some light fixtures in the basement are still hanging by their wires which was characteristic of the time it they were installed. There is also one blue junction box that is missing a cover and some miscellaneous disconnected cables with wire-nuts placed on their ends. Further investigation and safety inspection of these issues by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. |
Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property.
LANDSCAPING: IMMEDIATE FRONT LEVEL FRONT DROPS SHARPLY DOWN SIDES SLOPED TO FRONT RELATIVELY LEVEL REAR |
RETAINING WALLS: NONE |
WALKWAYS AND
DRIVEWAYS: REAR DIRT DRIVEWAY PUBLIC WALKWAYS |
1.0 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. (Maintenance tip.) 1,2,3,4,5-The soil against the right and left sides slopes gently down and away where water drains to the front and down to the street. This is good, however the backyard is relatively level where small isolated areas of water may collect. Since it was not raining at the time of inspection, any areas of collection are not known where areas should be monitored during a storm. Further investigation and repairs or drainage enhancements by a licensed landscaping contractor would be recommended if any drainage issues such as sizeable collections should develop which take excessively long to dissipate and remain soft and squishy, especially if against or near the foundation. Repairs or drainage enhancements at that time may include but are not limited to the filling of any low areas with additional compacted soil or if near or against a wall, additional compacted soil and/or the installation of a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard, parallel with the wall. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion. |
1.1 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS (Visible condition. Checking for proper water
runoff away from the house, the landscape for presence of holes, sunken
areas, bald spots, eroding areas, and tripping hazards, trees and
vegetation clearances, and drainage weep holes or drains at the base of
retaining walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
FRONT PORCH: SLOPED ROOF OFF HOUSE 4 STONE SUPPORT COLUMNS PLYWOOD FLOOR AND CEILING |
LEFT SIDE ENTRY: NO ROOF NO PORCH SIDEWALK ENTRY |
REAR ENTRY: NO ROOF NO PORCH SIDEWALK ENTRY |
STEPS AND STAIRWAYS: CONCRETE FRONT YARD STEPS CONCRETE PORCH STEPS WOOD SECOND FLOOR STAIRS WOOD BASEMENT STAIRS |
RAILINGS AND
BANISTERS: WOOD INTERIOR HAND-RAILS WOOD INTERIOR BANISTERS STONE 1/4 WALL PORCH WALLS |
2.0 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The concrete steps in the front yard leading down to the street are aged with minor cracking and missing surface areas, however appear to still be structurally adequate with no major loose or crumbled areas. |
2.1 | PORCH (Visible condition of
roof, eaves, gutters, attic, ventilation, columns, foundation, floor,
coverings, storage closets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.2 | PORCH (Visible condition and
operation of doors, lights, switches, and outlets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.3 | COMMON HALLWAYS AND CORRIDORS
(Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, cabinets,
lights, switches, outlets, heating, cooling.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.4 | STOOPS, STEPS, STAIRS,
BANISTERS, AND RAILINGS (Visible condition. Checking for potential
tripping hazards from variations in step riser heights, narrow tread
steps, unlevel steps or steep stairs. Checking for adequate
headroom.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.5 | SPACINGS BETWEEN ANY TWO
RAILING BANISTERS OF 4 TO 5 INCHES OR LESS (Safety issue for
children.) Comments: INSPECTED |
DOOR INFO: WOOD FRONT ENTRY METAL-CLAD LEFT ENTRY METAL-CLAD REAR ENTRY |
HOUSE WINDOWS: WOOD DOUBLE-HUNG SINGLE-PANE |
HOUSE WINDOWS: VINYL SINGLE-HUNG DOUBLE-PANE |
HOUSE WINDOWS: METAL SINGLE-PANE SIDE-SWINGING JALOUISE |
SIDING MATERIAL: VINYL LAP SIDING UPPER WOOD FIBEROUS SHEETS |
SOFFIT/FASCIA
MATERIAL: VINYL AND ALUMINUM |
GUTTER MATERIAL: ALUMINUM MOST ARE MISSING |
FOUNDATION MATERIAL: STONE AND MORTAR |
VIEWED ROOF FROM: GROUND (binoculars) ROOF-LINE BY LADDER WALK ENTIRE ROOF/USE LADDER |
ROOF TYPE: MAIN IS GABLE TYPE REAR PERPENDICULAR GABLE FRONT PERPENDICULAR GABLE RIGHT SIDE GABLE EXTENSION |
ROOF COVERING: FIBERGLASS ASPHALT SHINGLES |
LAYERS: 2 TO 3 |
ROOF PENETRATIONS: 3 TOTAL PENETRATIONS |
ESTIMATED ROOF AGE: 12 TO 15 YEARS |
ROOF VENTILATION: GABLE VENTS |
CHIMNEY(S): TWO CHIMNEYS |
SKY LIGHT (S): NONE |
HOUSE DIMENSIONS: 38FT WIDE X 36FT DEEP 15FT WIDE X 9FT DEEP REAR 1500 SQFT MAIN LEVEL 1500 SQFT UPPER LEVEL 23FT X 26FT BASEMENT |
3.0 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION House siding is vinyl, soffit and fascia are covered with vinyl and aluminum, all of which are relatively low maintenance, however exterior windows and some components and the entry door frames are wood and subject to deterioration if not properly maintained. It is strongly recommended that all exterior wood be painted on a periodic basis. The whole point is to prevent moisture damage which leads to costly total replacement. The bottom six to twelve inches of wood door frames are notorious for rapid deterioration when not properly maintained. It is very important to at least once a year, and more if needed, to keep at least the bottom six to twelve inches caulked and painted. IT CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH THAT PERIODIC PAINTING OF ALL WOOD SURFACES IS A MUST!!! Whenever small cracks start to develop at the end of the boards, it is time to paint! (Maintenance tip.) |
3.1 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
The items listed below were observed during the roof inspection. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3-The metal flashing around the right side chimney appears to have been recently replaced based on the shiny areas of tin, however both chimneys and plumbing vent pipes that pierce the roof have been covered or surrounded with roof tar. Some of this tar has become aged with small cracks or gaps where additional roof tar is recommended until the roof covering is replaced. At that time the metal chimney flashing should be replaced if determined necessary and new rubber boot flashing around the plumbing vent pipes should always be installed. 4-Tree limbs are overshadowing some front areas of roof. Tree limbs retain or hold moisture and have caused some small green areas of growth to develop on the shingles where trimming and shingle growth cleaning or removal are recommended. 5,6,7,8,9-The roof structure is supporting from 2 to 3 layers of shingles. The bottom layer is aged where it crumbles away and the top layer is estimated to be from 12 to 15 years old based on the somewhat low granule count. There are two small areas of different color shingles along the left half of the front side, one small area along the right half of backside, and along the valleys of the front center perpendicular gable along with some small scattered areas patched with roof tar. 10-The edge shingles along the front left side are deteriorated where small areas of roof decking are exposed. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of new shingles along this edge. Further investigation of overall adequacy of present roof covering and any needed repairs by a licensed roof contractor is recommended. The roof covering appears to be nearing the end of its normal life span, however may last several more years with continuing patching or maintenance. |
3.2 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Some windows are missing a screen and some existing screens are deteriorated or aged with small holes and tears. |
3.3 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the bottom threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. Entry door framing boards are flush with the thresholds and need to be caulked. |
3.4 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3-The right side chimney crown has some cracking and roof tar patches where the installation of a proper rain cap such as the one in sample picture 3 is recommended. Chimney caps are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, or entire chimney top. It is probably the best investment to protect the entire chimney crown. |
3.5 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Vinyl siding has been installed over the original wood lap siding boards. This is good, however there are some loose or missing areas which are listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-Loose section of siding to the right of the chimney on the right side just below the lower windows. 2,3-Missing lower siding along right side of the rear laundry room. 4-Loose siding board under the window sill on right side of rear entry door. 5-A loose bulged out area of siding on the left side above the upper front windows. 6-Some areas of siding on the left side which appear loose or bulged out. Further investigation of overall siding adequacy and repairs by a licensed siding contractor are recommended. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The front entry door deadbolt striker hole is not deep enough, preventing the deadbolt from fully becoming engaged. A deadbolt that is not fully engaged in the out position, poses a security issue and can be readily opened with a knife or screwdriver. It is recommended that the striker hole be made deeper. This can easily be done using a small drill bit. (security issue) |
3.7 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-There are noticeable gaps between the vinyl siding and the electric meter and panels along the left side where filling with caulking is recommended. |
3.8 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-There are missing areas of gutters and downspouts. Repair by a licensed gutter installation contractor is recommended after repairs have been made to the lower edges of roof decking and rafters and soffit and fascia. It is also important to note that a splashblock under or a long vinyl extension to the bottom of all downspouts is recommended to help direct water away from the foundation. |
3.9 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2-The outer wood window framing boards are covered with aluminum. This is good, however the paint finish of the exterior side of the wood windows and exposed areas not covered with aluminum is aged with peeled and missing areas where scraping and heavily painting is recommended. |
3.10 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2-Wood window framing has been covered with aluminum with the exception of the two middle areas of the lower right side section of triple windows. |
3.11 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
WINDOW PANE ISSUES: 1-The bottom section of one left side kitchen window and bottom section of the upper level left bathroom window have been boarded. The window panes are broken out where repairs are recommended. |
3.12 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY Comments: MINOR REPAIRS ADDITIONAL WINDOW PANE ISSUES: There are two cracked window panes in the dining room. There is one cracked window pane in the upper level front right bedroom. There is one cracked window pane with a small hole in the upper level right bathroom. There is one cracked window pane in the second floor stairway landing. |
3.13 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Vinyl and aluminum has been installed over the open soffit and fascia or lower eaves area. This is good, however there are some areas of moisture deteriorated wood, and loose or missing vinyl and aluminum which are listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit to the right of the right side chimney. 2,3,4-The vinyl soffit to the right of the front center gable above the front porch has dripped down out of place. Some small isolated lower edge areas of roof decking and rafters are deteriorated. 5-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit at the front left corner. 6-A 2ft missing area of vinyl soffit at the left side front corner. 7-A 12ft missing section of vinyl soffit on the rear corner of the right side. 8,9-An estimated 20ft missing area of vinyl soffit and aluminum fascia on the left half of the rear wall. Some small isolated lower edge areas of roof decking and rafters are deteriorated. *****Repair by a licensed siding contractor is recommended. It should also be noted that all vinyl soffit installed is solid with no soffit vents. Original attic ventilation consisted of lower open eaves areas, as shown in picture 10, where air would enter and move through the attic and out the gable vents. Proper air movement is required to achieve adequate overall attic ventilation where vinyl soffit containing a series of small vent holes or soffit vents every so many feet should be installed. |
3.14 | WINDOWS, SHUTTERS AND AWNINGS
(Visible condition and checking for the presence and functionality of
window flashing and operation of windows and window locks.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.15 | ENTRY DOORS, STORM DOORS,
SECURITY DOORS, AND DOORBELL (Visible condition and operation, checking
hardware, locks, coverings, frame, trim, weatherstripping, presence of
deadbolts on all exterior doors, proper locking, opening, and closing of
sliding glass doors, and the presence of a security dead-pin in all
sliding glass doors.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.16 | FOUNDATION WALLS AND MORTAR
JOINTS (Visible condition, checking for cracked, crumbled, loose, missing,
eroded areas, or large gaps) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.17 | EXTERIOR WALL COVERINGS,
FLASHING,TRIM, AND CAULKING (Visible condition. A wall flashing is defined
as a material used around angles or junctions on exterior walls to prevent
water leakage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.18 | HOUSE FRAMING (Visible
condition, checking for any cracks developing outside of the house, cracks
between a chimney and the exterior wall or any cracks running outward at
an angle from the upper corners of windows and door frames.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.19 | OUTSIDE ACCESS TO HOUSE IS
RODENT PROOF Comments: INSPECTED |
3.20 | ROOF COVERING (Visible
condition. Checking roof penetrations such as, roof vents, ridge vents,
wind turbines, soffit vents, gable vents, chimneys, furnace flues, water
heater flues, plumbing vents, skylights and any other penetrations.
Checking flashings which are used to seal around roof penetrations and
intersections. Checking rain caps on chimneys and flues.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.21 | SOFFIT, FASCIA, EAVES,
GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS (Visible condition. Checking if gutters are provided
where necessary, including porches, flat roofs, and dormers. Checking
whether splasblocks are in place if underground piping is not used for
rain gutter drainage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
ROOF STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD RAFTERS 1 x 3 WOOD SLATS SIDE STRUT BRACING BOARDS |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD JOISTS |
RAFTER SPACING: 24 INCHES |
JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
INSULATION TYPE: FIBERGLASS |
INSULATION INCHES: 2 TO 3 |
R- VALUE: R-11 OR LESS |
ATTIC INFO: HIGH CLEARANCE ATTIC NO DECKING FOR STORAGE |
4.0 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-Original house walls and ceilings consist of plaster and wood furring strips. Some have been covered with modern sheets of plasterboard. |
4.1 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-The attic is high clearance where one can fully stand. The ceiling joists are 2x6 and spaced 16 inches apart where floor decking can be installed for light storage. Attic entry is rather difficult through the right side bathroom tub where the installation of a scuttle or pull-down ladder in a more readily accessible location would be recommended, if storage is desired. |
4.2 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION: Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire. Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer. Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number. |
4.3 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7-The wood members throughout the attic are darker discolored from normal aging and still appear structurally adequate. A small 2ft x 10ft area along the front left side over the front left bedroom and another 4ft x 8ft area on the front right side over the front right bedroom and chimney area have been replaced with plywood. Overall attic construction is adequate with 2x6 rafters, 2x6 ceiling joists, side strut bracing boards, and the majority of the rafters are properly aligned onto the ridge boards. This is good! ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any leakage within the attic that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the attic inspection and only readily accessible areas are inspected and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. |
4.4 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION Roof decking consists of 1x3 boards with gaps between them where the tar paper and/or shingles can be viewed from within the attic. Normally when roof covering is replaced on decking such as this, 4x8 sheets of plywood or pressed wood are first installed, but are not required. (Maintenance tip.) |
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-Attic insulation resistance to heat ratio is R-11 or less where R-30 or better is always recommended which would require the installation of additional insulation. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-The main upper attic has two single-pane double-hung window, one in each gable area. The one of the right side has been completely covered with vinyl siding. Original attic ventilation consisted of soffit vent openings in the lower eaves and these two gable located windows. Overall attic ventilation has been drastically reduced to poor to none since the lower soffit vents have been completely covered with vinyl and the windows covered and/or closed. Attic ventilation improvements are recommended and may include but are not limited to the ideas or suggestions listed below. -Removing vinyl siding covering the right side gable located window, then screening both and then leaving then partially open. -The installation of a gable vent above each window which is properly screened to keep wasps, bees, and small animals from entering. -The installation of a couple wind turbines and/or thermostatically controlled roof ventilator fans. *****It is important to note that in additional to any of the above, soffit vents should again be installed. Refer to report section 3.11 for additional information and recommendations. |
4.7 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (Visible
condition. Checking attic insulation, exposed wiring, lights and water
pipes. Checking to see that all attic areas are accessible, all exposed
sections of chimney in attic are free of soot and creosote leakage, that
soffit vents are not covered with insulation, and attic ventilation vent
screening which keeps animals out) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.8 | GAS FLUE AND CHIMNEY
FIRESTOPPING (Visible condition. Firestopping refers to size of the hole
made in the ceiling and roof so as to maintain the proper clearance from a
hot metal flue pipe or chimney brick.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.9 | DO ALL FLUES AND VENTS
PRESENT IN ATTIC TERMINATE TO THE EXTERIOR (Water heater flue, furnace
flue, metal chimney flue, plumbing vents, bathroom fan vents, range hood
vent, dryer vent, etc...) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.10 | RAFTERS, DECKING, JOISTS OR
TRUSSES (Visible condition. Check for rafters pulling away from ridge
board, rot, cracks, splits, cut, altered or missing supports.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.11 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE ROOF
LEAKS OR DETERIORATION (Flashing refers to materials, usually metal, that
join parts of the house to the roof. Common places where roof leaks occur
are flashings around chimneys, metal gas flues, plumbing vents, turbines,
dormers, valleys, or any other roof penetrations or intersections.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.12 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE
CONDENSATION OR MOISTURE DAMAGE DUE TO IMPROPER VENTILATION (Often what
appears to be a leak is in fact condensation, and a sign of inadequate
ventilation. Proper attic ventilation reduces heat in summer and prevents
condensation in winter. It allows air to carry off water vapor before it
can condense and cause moisture damage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.13 | INSTALLED MECHANICAL
VENTILATION SYSTEMS (Visible condition and operation of power ventilators
and fans) Comments: INSPECTED |
REFRIGERATOR: NONE |
MEASURED REFRIGERATOR
TEMP: N/A |
RANGE/COOKTOP BRAND: JENN-AIR |
RANGE/COOKTOP ENERGY: ELECTRIC |
OVEN: NORMAL UNDER COOKTOP |
OVEN ENERGY: ELECTRIC |
BUILT-IN MICROWAVE: NONE |
RANGE HOOD: BROAN |
HOOD EXHAUST: RECYCLED EXHAUST |
DISHWASHER: NONE |
DISPOSER: NONE |
TRASH COMPACTORS: NONE |
INTERIOR CEILING
MATERIALS: PLASTER AND WOOD FURRING PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR WALL
MATERIALS: PLASTER AND WOOD FURRING PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR FLOOR
MATERIALS: HARDWOOD T&G VINYL CONCRETE |
BATHROOMS: 3 FULL 1 HALF |
BATHROOM INFO: 1 ACRYLIC TUB PLASTERBOARD SURROUND 1 ACRYLIC TUB ACRYLIC PANEL SURROUND 1 METAL TUB ACRYLIC PANEL SURROUND |
BATHROOM INFO: CULTERED MARBLE SINK TOPS WITH WOOD VANITIES 1 FORMICA SINK VANITY |
KITCHEN SINK: IVORY DUAL BASIN |
KITCHEN INFO: EAT-IN KITCHEN |
REFRIGERATOR OPENING
WIDTH: 38 INCHES |
REFRIGERATOR OPENING
HEIGHT: 74 1/4 INCHES |
OTHER INTERIOR INFO: 9.5FT UPPER CEILINGS 10FT MAIN LEVEL CEILINGS |
5.0 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
The water supply is off where the filling of the sink basins to inspect for signs of leakage is beyond the scope of the inspection. The water and drain piping appears adequate and recently upgraded with flex hoses and PVC piping where most likely any leakage should be minimal to none. This is good, however an unknown? Some drain piping utilizes old style S-traps, as shown. With an S-trap, wastewater continues to flow after the fixture is emptied and clears the trap. Plumbing systems are vented to prevent trap water seal loss, which can allow sewer gases to enter the house. Old style S-traps are known to frequently lose this water seal. It is recommended that all S-traps be replaced with a proper P-trap (which are approved for use by plumbing codes), by a licensed plumbing contractor. |
5.1 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-Original house walls consist of plaster held in place with wood furring strips. Some areas of this ceiling and wall plaster have developed small hairline cracks and appear not smooth which is characteristic of this type of construction. Some walls, however have been covered with new 4x8 sheets of modern plasterboard where this is not an issue. Repair of these minor cracks may include but are not limited to smoothing of areas after applying wallboard compound or covering with modern plasterboard. (cosmetic) |
5.2 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The upper level right rear bedroom wall plaster surface is cosmetically uneven however adequate. |
5.3 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-Some ceiling fixtures are original and aged where replacement is recommended. but not required. |
5.4 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-A small area of brown discoloration and peeled areas of wall covering was observed under one window in the formal dining room. This most likely was repaired when the new vinyl windows were installed. Cosmetic walls repairs are recommended. |
5.5 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS The vinyl floor covering against the upper level hallway or center located bathroom tub is peeling up where caulking is recommended. (Maintenance tip.) |
5.6 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1-The T&G floor decking in the entry door area of upper level right rear bedroom has some minor give or a spongy area. 2-House hardwood T&G flooring is overall adequate, however some areas of finish are faded, discolored, and marred. |
5.7 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-Upper level hallway bathroom medicine cabinet needs cleaned. |
5.8 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-Twisted pair electrical wiring to some device is attached along the side of the second floor stairs where further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited upgrading with new wiring. |
5.9 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The plasterboard installed on the rear wall of the laundry room is unfinished where sanding and painting are recommended. |
5.10 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2,3,4-The house ceilings were observed to have some areas of discoloration of the type associated from moisture intrusion which are listed below. -Some areas of light brown staining on the short section of wall above the main level front left living room entry way. This is an unknown and could possibly be attributed to the roof leak which caused the staining on the upper front left bedroom ceiling? -An area of brown discoloration in the front closet of the front left upper level bedroom. This most likely was repaired when the different color shingles were installed along the valleys above this area? -Several large areas of brown discoloration in the front left bedroom. This most likely was repaired when the different color shingles and new plywood roof decking was installed above this area? Since it was not raining at the time of the inspection any actual areas of present leakage could not be determined, however it is important to note that previous repairs are evident. |
5.11 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2,3-The oven elements are functional however the top or broil element has dropped down out of place and the two left stove top elements would not turn on and glow orange. Repairs by a licensed appliance contractor are recommended, however the unit is aged where unit replacement may want to be considered. |
5.12 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The electrical outlet to the right of the upper level fireplace enclosure is worn where power turns on and off intermittently. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of new 120 volt receptacle. |
5.13 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The upper center bathroom entry door knob needs repairs or replacement. |
5.14 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS The sliding wall doors at the front right main level living room hallway entry are off the track and are hard to operate. |
5.15 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MINOR REPAIRS One outlet in the kitchen and one in the laundry room are missing a cover. (safety) |
5.16 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MINOR REPAIRS The vinyl floor covering in the kitchen is peeled in some areas along the rear seam where two sections join together. |
5.17 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MINOR REPAIRS The electrical outlet in the upper level center bathroom is loose where it moves all around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. |
5.18 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends used carpets be properly cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and an air quality or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present, before closing. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not dismantle or open any non readily accessible areas such as air vents or ductwork and does not move objects or furniture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects of any kind such as any cracked tile or torn and soiled carpet under furniture. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and lists all conditions at the time of inspection, where the inspection is like a snapshot in time. For example a component proved to be in working order at time of inspection, could be malfunctioning soon after moving in at no fault of ACE Home Inspections, LLC. |
5.19 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC only tests a random sampling of house smoke alarms always recommends that ALL smoke alarms be tested and replaced if found defective before moving in. It is always recommended that a local fire department be contacted to determine where smoke alarms should be installed since each jurisdiction may have different standards. |
5.20 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees. A home inspection is like a snap shot in time where component conditions are noted at the time of inspection. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for component conditions occurring after the time of the inspection. |
5.21 | KITCHEN (Visible condition of
ceiling, walls, cabinets, shelving, countertops, plumbing. Checking that
all outlets within six feet of sink have GFCI protection, and there are
separate water shut-off valves for faucet, dishwasher, and
ice-maker.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.22 | KITCHEN (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, lights,
switches, outlets, sink, faucet, spray nozzle and all appliances staying
with house: range, oven, microwave, vent hood, dishwasher, disposal,
refrigerator or any other appliances. Checking that sink and dishwasher
drain properly, and hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature
are adequate.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.23 | RANGE HOOD VENTING SYSTEM (If
range hood is nonvented type, is there a clean charcoal or aluminum filter
in place. A nonvented hood is for filtering odors and grease vapors and
will not remove heat or steam like a vented range hood. A non-vented range
hood is identified by louvers on the front of the hood and does not vent
to exterior as a vented hood does.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.24 | ARE FAUCETS FREE OF HAMMERING
AND VIBRATING NOISES WHEN TURNED ON/OFF RAPIDLY (This occurs when water
flowing in the pipe comes to an abrupt stop, introducing shock and
vibrations that can damage pipes or fittings. It is caused by improper
sized pipes and can be fixed with an air chamber or antiknock coil which
provides an air cushion to absorb shock.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.25 | DOES SINK DRAIN INTO A P-TRAP
UNDER THE SINK (A trap is needed to provide a water seal that blocks sewer
gases from seeping back into house. Some homes still have S-type traps
that do not always vent properly. If a sucking and gurgling noise occurs
after almost all the water has drained, the water seal has been lost. All
S-traps should be converted to P-traps.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.26 | DOES SINK HAVE AN AIR GAP TO
PREVENT BACK SIPHONAGE (Simply speaking, the air gap prevents the dirty
sink water from being sucked back into the clean water supply pipes
through the end of the faucet if the sink should overflow. There should be
a gap of at least 1 inch between the end of the faucet where the water
exits and the flood rim of the sink.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.27 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition of ceilings and walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.28 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, lights, switches,
outlets) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.29 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
of ceiling, walls, cabinets, countertops, and caulking.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.30 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, exhaust
fans, lights, switches, outlets, sinks, tubs, showers, and commodes.
Checking presence of cut-off valves for faucets and commodes, proper
draining of sinks, tubs, showers and commodes, use of P-traps and not old
S-traps, proper air-gap for sinks, tubs, and hand-held shower wands to
prevent back siphonage, faucets for improper hammering and vibrating
noises when turned on/off rapidly, adequacy of hot and cold water
pressure, volume, and temperature, exhaust fans for proper venting to
building exterior and outlet GFCI protection.) Comments: INSPECTED |
PLUMBING SUPPLY: COPPER |
DISTRIBUTION: COPPER |
PLUMBING WASTE: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING |
WASTE SYSTEM: UNKNOWN |
WATER SOURCE: PUBLIC |
WATER HEATER
BRAND/DATE: RHEEM DATED 10/2001 |
WATER HEATER
LOCATION: BASEMENT |
WATER HEATER POWER
SOURCE: ELECTRIC |
CAPACITY: 50 GAL |
WATER FILTERS: NONE OBSERVED |
DRYER POWER SOURCE: 220 ELECTRIC |
WATER CUT-OFF: UNKNOWN |
BATHROOM SINK
PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING METAL-FLEX WATER LINES WHITE PLASTIC FLEX LINES |
KITCHEN SINK
PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING METAL-FLEX WATER LINES |
WASHER: NONE |
DRYER: NONE |
OTHER PLUMBING INFO: WATER SUPPLY OFF |
6.0 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-Natural gas is 1/2 psi type, which does not require a separate regulator at each appliance. Gas appliances within the house include the two furnaces. |
6.1 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The house water supply is off because the house has been winterized by a licensed contractor where water has been removed from the piping, commodes, and water heater, and in most cased replaced with an ant-freeze type solution. This is usually done when a house sits idle throughout the cold season months. |
6.2 | PLUMBING SYSTEM There was no potable water expansion tank observed which are always recommended but are NOT required. (Maintenance tip.) ADDITIONAL EXPANSION TANK INFORMATION: A potable water expansion tank is always recommended, but not required between the cold water line and the water pressure reducing valve. It is designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands and in a domestic hot water system the system may be closed when isolated by a pressure reducing valve. Provisions should be made for this expansion. The expansion tank absorbs the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T & P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and ensures a longer system life. The tank has a polypropylene liner, butyl diaphragm and a field adjustable pre-charge. Refer to sample picture. |
6.3 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Whenever gas is present, properly installed carbon monoxide detection is ALWAYS recommended, but not required, at each appliance. Carbon monoxide hovers closest to the ground where each detector should be installed no higher than midways up a wall and should be periodically tested and replaced if faulty. (safety tip.) |
6.4 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1,2-----UPGRADE-----The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 1. The house has two bibs which protrude from the ground where preventers are recommended. |
6.5 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-----UPGRADE-----Washer hoses that are original black hose type are susceptible to sudden leaking. It is always recommended, but not required, that new wire braided permanent type hoses be installed like the ones shown. These can be purchased at major home and appliance centers and are relatively inexpensive. (Maintenance tip.) |
6.6 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The house has been winterized where at one time most likely the water heater was drained. Water heater is electric where breaker for it MUST be kept off to prevent element deterioration when water is not present. The house water supply is not on where inspection of this issue is beyond the scope of the inspection. Recommend water heater inspection and verification of proper operation by a licensed plumbing contractor once water supply is resumed. |
6.7 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1,2-The electric water is dated 2001, making it only about 6 years old, however could not be tested for functionality because the copper water piping to and from it has been hastily removed by theft. The unit, based on age alone should most likely be functional once piping repairs have been implemented. The TPR valve does not have a 3/4 inches extension pipe ran to within six inches of the floor where installation is recommended for safety reason. ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. |
6.8 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) Copper water piping located in the basement and crawlspace from the water heater to the main level kitchen and half bathroom have been hastily removed from theft. House water supply can not be resumes until all repairs have been implemented. Further investigation and replacement of ALL MISSING copper water piping by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
6.9 | WATER HEATER, PTV - PRESSURE
TEMPERATURE VALVE, PTV DRAIN PIPING (Visible condition. Checking presence
of a drain pan under unit if installed in attic or room over a living
area, and presence of a cold water inlet water cut-off valve.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
6.10 | ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
EXTERIOR TANK WIRING AND ELEMENT COVERS (Visible condition.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
6.11 | EXPOSED INTERIOR WATER PIPING
(Visible condition, looking for leaks, corrosion, sagging sections, and
valves where it enters house and stops at the point where it enters rooms
where it then will be described in each rooms description in this
report.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.12 | EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS, WATER
PRESSURE, WATER VOLUME, WATER DRAINS (Visible condition and operation.
Checking for presence of faucet backflow preventers.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.13 | CLOTHES WASHER WATER
CONNECTIONS, DRAIN PIPE, AND HOSES (Visible condition.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.14 | ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET
OR GAS CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION (Visible condition. Checking dryer exhaust
vent for exterior building termination and exterior cover with functional
flap.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.15 | DRAINAGE SUMPS, SUMP PUMPS,
AND RELATED PIPING (Visible condition and operation, checking any
switches, valves, piping, and for any debris. Sump pumps are used to
remove ground water and/or surface water from the house.) Comments: INSPECTED |
SERVICE DROP TO
HOUSE: ABOVE GROUND USES A DRIP LOOP ATTACHES TO SIDING |
MAIN PANEL TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
WIRING METHODS: KNOB AND TUBE ARMORED CABLE OLDER NM CLOTH CABLE SOME ROMEX CABLE |
15 AND 20 AMP CIRCUIT
TYPE: COPPER |
MAIN HOUSE POWER
DISCONNECT: RATED 150 AMP IN MAIN PANEL CUTS ALL POWER |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
CAPACITY: 150 AMP |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
LOCATION: AT OUTSIDE METER |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
MANUFACTURER: CROUSE-HINDS |
MAIN HOUSE BREAKERS: SIEMENS GOULD CROUSE-HINDS |
SUB-PANEL A LOCATION: AT OUTSIDE METER |
SUB-PANEL A CAPACITY: 125 AMP |
SUB-PANEL A TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL A
MANUFACTURER: SIEMENS |
SUB-PANEL A BREAKERS: SIEMENS |
SUB-PANEL B CAPACITY: 100 AMP |
SUB-PANEL B TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL B
MANUFACTURER: SQUARE D |
SUB-PANEL B BREAKERS: SQUARE D |
SUB-PANEL B LOCATION: LAUNDRY ROOM |
7.0 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4,5-The electrical panels appeared free of moisture discoloration, corrosion, and deterioration. This is good! Please see rest of electrical section for all items inspected. |
7.1 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The house an electronic security system which are beyond the scope of the inspection. |
7.2 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect lighting controlled by timers, and photo or motion type detectors and only tests a random sampling of the exterior lighting. |
7.3 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The outlets were found to be a mix of grounded and ungrounded with the majority found to be ungrounded. Most of the original 2-prong outlets have been replaced with modern 3-prong outlets, however it is important to note that just because it has 3 prongs, does NOT mean that it is grounded. This should be expected for a house of this age where owner is NOT required to upgrade. The outlets have the proper voltage and are functional, however it is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes. It is recommended, but not required, based on the age of the house, that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets, which most likely will involve upgrading some of the wiring. -----UPGRADE-----The upper level right and left bathrooms are GFCI protected, however the upper level center bathroom, main level half bathroom, kitchen, and basement outlets are not. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended , as a safety upgrade. -----UPGRADE-----There were no AFCI protected bedroom outlets observed. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. *****There are two grounded outlets in the kitchen, one in the upper level right side bathroom, and one in the upper level left side bathroom. Please read general GFCI and AFCI information below. GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). Remember that breakers are designed to protect only the wiring and GFCI's are designed to protect people against electrical shock. It is always recommended that kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink, bathroom outlets, unfinished basement or crawlspace areas, garage, exterior, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpool tubs, or any outlets residing on or by any body of water be upgraded to GFCI type outlets by a licensed electrical contractor. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. |
7.4 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION All bathroom power turns off when the upper level right bathroom GFCI is tripped, however all power stays on when the left bathroom GFCI is tripped. The left bathroom is dedicated where only power to the outlet turns off and not power to the entire bathroom. Since GFCI protection is not required based on the age of the house this arrangement is better than nothing at all, however a more proper installation with dedicated type GFCI protection is always recommended even though it may not be required. Refer to report section 7.3 for additional information and recommendations. |
7.5 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4-It is evident in the attic and crawlspace that the original house wiring is knob-and-tube and armored cable. It appears that some of this original wiring is still being used throughout the house for house lighting and outlets. There were places where modern romex was found spliced into the knob-and-tube wiring. It is important to briefly note that knob-and-tube wiring and other types of older wiring is still being used in many old houses. It is generally considered that there is nothing wrong with this kind of wiring, and it shouldn't be condemned just because it is old, however if it is aged and deteriorated where it has not been properly maintained, can be considered a fire and safety hazard. Knob-and-tube wiring consists of two insulated wires run independently a few inches apart. One wire is a hot conductor and the other a neutral return. This is a two wire system with no ground wire. As long as the wire insulation is intact it is not recommended that knob-and-tube wiring be replaced unless grounded outlets are desired. Be aware that it is old wiring and still useable but has no grounds. Knob-and-tube wiring although obsolete, is considered safe. Any system modifications should be made by a licensed electrical contractor. In addition, some outlet receptacles are not grounded as previously mentioned, and as a precautionary measure, they should be used only with appliances that do not require grounding. If sensitive devices, like computers are to be used, it is recommended, but not required, that receptacles be upgraded with grounds which would require replacement of existing wiring by a licensed electrical contractor. Older style NM (non-metallic) cloth cable in existence since the early 1900's. NM cable consists of two or more conductors in a single non-metallic jacket. Two wire cable is called duplex cable. Duplex cable has been around since the early 1900's. Early duplex cable consists of two insulated conductors in a silver-colored jacket or outer cover. Modern NM cable is referred to as Romex and has been in use since 1965. Armored cable perhaps just as old as knob-and-tube wiring is a cable system sometimes called Greenfield or BX cable and terminates in a metal junction box. Armored cable was extremely popular in the early 1900's and consists of a black hot wire and a white neutral wire covered by a spiraled metal jacket or covering. *****Opinions on older wiring may vary among electrical contractors as safe or unsafe. With the determined presence of older wiring, it is always recommended that the entire house electrical system be further investigated for overall feasibility and safety to include all aged push-button type wall wall switches by a licensed electrical contractor. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The front left upper level bedroom has a 240 wall receptacle which was most likely used for a window type a/c unit at one time. The outlet was tested and found functional where 240 volts is present. Recommend a licensed electrical contractor to remove or cover with a blank cover if there are no plans for use because this could be a safety issue for small children. |
7.7 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The ground wire is loose where it clamps onto the ground rod under the main panel along the left wall. repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to tightening present clamp or the installation of a new clamp. The electrical system should be grounded with both a ground rod and to the house copper water pipes. This house was only found to be grounded with a ground wire leaving the main panel to a ground rod. It is suggested but not required, that the system be grounded to both. Water pipes are something to be grounded and are usually not intended to be an actual system ground. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this issue varies between safe and unsafe. I recommend you consult a licensed electrical contractor for an opinion and correct if necessary. |
7.8 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The lighting does not turn on from the wall switches located in the front area of the main level center hallway where the bulbs may be bad? Recommend further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor if bulbs are determined not to be bad. |
7.9 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2-There are two breakers in the sub-panel located in the laundry room which have two attached wires. This is refereed to as "double-tapping" , is usually nit allowed and considered a fire hazard. repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to a licensed electrical contractor to moving wires to newly installed breakers. (safety) |
7.10 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2-The interior cover over the sub-panel breakers located in the laundry room has a small opening most likely from a breaker being removed. This exposes live interior panel voltage and is a safety hazard for small children where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to filling opening with a snap-in type filler plate. (safety) |
7.11 | EXTERIOR LIGHTS, SWITCHES,
OUTLETS (Visible condition and operation) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.12 | SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE
(Visible condition of cable, splices, house connection, porcelain
insulators, mast, masthead or gooseneck, conduit and if limbs or vines are
in the way. Service is run aerially overhead or buried underground. The
home owner's responsibility starts after cable splice where aerial feed is
connected to the house, and for a buried feed at the meter.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.13 | METER BASE TO PANEL (Visible
condition of base, how its attached to house, all cables and connectors,
look for illegal wire taps running to another panel or device which could
severely overload the service utility drop and meter base, and does meter
base amp rating closely match the fuse or circuit breaker panel amp
rating.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.14 | PANELS, FUSE BOXES, AND
SUB-PANELS (Visible condition. Checking panels for proper circuit or fuse
labeling, all circuit breakers same brand name as panel, one main breaker
or disconnect that cuts all power to house. Check that all wires to
single-pole breakers are colored black and not white.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.15 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND
(Visible condition. A ground wire bleeds stray voltages to ground and
current should not flow continuously in this wire. A ground wire from the
neutral/grounding bus bar in main panel runs to a grounding electrode or
rod. There should also be a ground wire from the main panel
neutral/grounding bus bar to metal water pipes. Water pipes should be
voltage free. Check water pipes for presence of voltage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.16 | PANEL BONDING STRAP (Visible
condition. A bonding strap or panel bond, is required in every main panel
to connect the neutral/grounding bus bar to the panel frame so that the
metal panel can't shock you if a live wire touches it.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.17 | ARE PANEL FILLER PLATES IN
PLACE WITH NONE MISSING (Filler plates are little knockouts that are
removed from panel front if breakers are installed. If no breaker was
installed, this open spot is where someone could reach in and touch a hot
spot.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.18 | ARE LOCATIONS OF PANELS AND
SUB-PANELS READILY ACCESSIBLE (A countertop or workbench directly in front
of panel makes it not readily accessible. A shorter person won't be able
to reach and shut-off a breaker in an emergency.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.19 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH SERVICE ENTRY CABLE LUG IN MAIN PANEL (This is where the cable from
meter connects into panel. Other wires, called illegal taps, on these two
lugs are left without overcurrent protection. Don't confuse an illegal tap
with surge-protection wiring where two small wires feed into main lugs and
go to a small lightning-surge arrestor.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.20 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH BREAKER SCREW, NEUTRAL OR GROUND BUS SCREW, OR FUSE (Multiple wires
are a sign of an overloaded panel and are dangerous because the wires can
work loose from vibration and become a fire hazard. There is an exception
to the rule: Square D, type-QO, size 15, 20, 30 amp breakers are listed
for up to two 10 gauge wires.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.21 | ARE ALL WIRES TO EACH FUSE OR
CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZED PROPERLY (This occurs if undersize wire is used with
oversize breakers or fuses. This is critical so that whatever load is
connected to the circuit breaker will be properly protected.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.22 | ARE ALL WIRES ON 15 0R 20 AMP
CIRCUITS COPPER AND NOT SINGLE STRAND ALUMINUM (Aluminum wired homes built
from 1965 to 1972 have had numerous problems with electrical connections
to receptacles and switches.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.23 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY WATER
DAMAGE (The signs of moisture damage are brown iron stains and white
corrosion on breakers and hot tabs inside panel.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.24 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY
DETERIORATION (Visible condition looking for signs of arcing, burn marks,
blistering, or discoloration. If breaker wire connection has overheated,
usually because it became loose, there will be discolored or burned
insulation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.25 | ARE SUB-PANEL GROUNDS
ISOLATED FROM NEUTRALS (A sub-panels most common use is to provide a
secondary panel some distance from the main service panel. In any
sub-panel, grounds and neutrals must be kept separate from each
other.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.26 | ARE APPROPRIATE OUTLETS GFCI
PROTECTED (A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a safety device that
senses any shock hazard and interrupts the flow of electricity in the
circuit. Receptacles requiring GFCIs are bathrooms, kitchen countertops,
wet bar sinks, garages, pools, spa lights, and any outdoors below
6'6".) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.27 | WERE A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER
OF OUTLETS TESTED (Verify proper outlet operation with a Suretest tester
that tests for proper wiring, reversed polarity, voltage drop, ground
impedance, Ground-to-Neutral voltage, line voltage, high resistance
grounds, and false or bootleg grounds. The tester also verifies GFCI,
ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets. Comments: INSPECTED |
HEAT FOR: MAIN LEVEL |
LOCATION: BASEMENT |
FUEL SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR |
BRAND: CARRIER |
MANUFACTURED: DATED 02/1989 |
IGNITION SYSTEM: MANUAL LIT STANDING PILOT LIGHT |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: NO HEAT CHECK - GAS OFF NOT MEASURED |
DUCTWORK: METAL RECTANGULAR INSULATED ROUND |
HEAT FOR: UPPER LEVEL |
LOCATION: BASEMENT |
FUEL SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR |
BRAND: CARRIER |
MANUFACTURED: DATED 02/1989 |
IGNITION SYSTEM: MANUAL LIT STANDING PILOT LIGHT |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: NO HEAT CHECK - GAS OFF NOT MEASURED |
DUCTWORK: METAL RECTANGULAR INSULATED ROUND |
8.0 | HEATING SYSTEM
1-The house has two gas furnaces of the same brand and model. The metal exhaust flue pipes feeding into a right side chimney flue cavity are a different size and most likely both should be the same size where further investigation by a licensed heat and air contractor is recommended. |
8.1 | HEATING SYSTEM
1,2-Both of the natural gas furnace heating units could not be operated and the burner flame characteristics inspected to determine adequate combustion because the gas supply to house is off at the meter where the furnace manually lit pilot lights are not lit. ACE Home Inspections, LLC follows the Standards of Practice set forth by the Alabama Building Commission, which does not require home inspectors to light flames or pilots to inspect gas appliances. Both of the natural gas furnace heating systems are dated 1989 making them almost 19 years old where they are nearing or at the end of their average life span, however most likely are still functional and could last several more years? This is an unknown. After the pilots are lit, the flames should be a crisp blue, which indicates proper combustion. Some yellow streaking, unless excessive is okay and is usually attributed to dust in the air or aged burners. Excessive orange or yellow streaking indicates inadequate combustion. System service by a licensed heating and air contractor to include evaluation of system combustion is recommended. |
8.2 | INSTALLED HEATING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition and check presence of conditioned air source in all
rooms, furnace blower free of any excess noise or vibration, and return
air filter is present and clean.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.3 | FLUE PIPE AND VENTING
(Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and
clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to
exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.4 | COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY
(Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine
with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a
good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete
combustion.) Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
8.5 | WAS HEAT EXCHANGER TEST
PROCEDURE DONE (This procedure ONLY applies to forced-air gas furnaces
that use a blower to distribute heat. Procedure: Check the flame with
blower off, then with blower on. If the main burner characteristics were
normal with the blower off, but change or the flame lifts from the burner
ports, the heat exchanger MAY be faulty.) Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
8.6 | WAS GAS FURNACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
8.7 | WAS A TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT
SUPPLY AND RETURN (Typical furnace operating temperatures are: NATURAL
GAS: 130-140 degrees, OIL/PROPANE: 125-135 degrees, ELECTRIC: 110-120
degrees, HEAT PUMP: 95-100 degrees.) Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
8.8 | DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS (Visible
condition, checking fans, pumps, exterior components of ducts and piping,
insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units and
convectors) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.9 | THERMOSTAT (Visible
condition, checking if, level on wall, loose, equipment turns on/off from
thermostat controls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
COOLING FOR: MAIN LEVEL |
COOLING SYSTEM TYPE: CENTRAL |
MEASURED TEMP AT
SUPPLY: NOT MEASURED SYSTEM UNOPERABLE |
MEASURED TEMP AT
RETURN: NOT MEASURED |
CENTRAL AIR INSIDE
UNIT: GOODMAN DATED 01/2005 3.5 TON COOLING UNIT |
CENTRAL AIR OUTSIDE
UNIT: GOODMAN DATED 10/2005 3 TON COOLING UNIT |
9.0 | COOLING SYSTEM
1,2-The house has a two separate levels, however presently only the main level has an installed central cooling system. The upper level system has no interior evaporator coil unit located above the gas furnace and no exterior condenser coil unit. However some items have been set in place if an upper level central cooling system is ever desired. A concrete pad and electrical service disconnect switch are installed along the rear wall, however the service disconnect switch needs replaced, and a condensate removal pump used for an interior evaporator coil is installed. In summing this up essentially the components still needed to complete the system, are an evaporator coil unit, condenser coil unit, copper piping, and a new electrical service disconnect switch. If central cooling is desired for the upper level then system completion by a licensed heating and air contractor would be recommended. It should also be noted that it is unknown if copper piping as present and removed from theft. |
9.1 | COOLING SYSTEM
1,2-The main level central cooling system could not be operated because the copper lines containing system freon from the exterior condenser unit to the interior evaporator unit have been hastily cut and the exterior condenser unit electrical service disconnect panel pull-switch is missing, from theft. Repairs and system service by a licensed heating and air contractor are recommended. |
9.2 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The main level square footage measured about 1500. Using 550 square foot per ton, the 3 ton main level cooling system would be adequate to cool 1650 square feet where the cooling system appears adequate and properly sized. This is good! *****The upper level square footage also measured 1500. The upper level central cooling system in incomplete where a 3 ton rated system would be required. GENERAL COOLING UNIT SIZING INFORMATION: The most widely used or generally accepted rule of thumb states 1 ton for every 550 square foot of living space. This design method is based on the floor area of the house. Of all the design methods, only the "square foot method" is at all reasonable. However opinions on a square footage value varies among licensed heating and air contractors where it is can range from 500 to 700 or even 1000 square foot for well-designed and quality-built homes. Rules of thumb are based largely on experience and possibly from poorly insulated and leaky houses of the past and can lead to excess system capacity and higher costs for the homeowner. Opinions by licensed heating and air contractors on this sizing issue may vary where some may say a half ton overall difference one way or the other is acceptable? |
9.3 | INSTALLED COOLING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition, checking condenser and evaporator units are free of
any excess noise and vibration, condenser unit free of overgrowth, coil
blockage, and sitting level on a slab.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.4 | OUTSIDE CONDENSER UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of compressor, coils, and blower fan. The
compressor compresses low-pressure cold Freon gas, turning it into high
pressure Freon gas that runs through the coils with the fan blowing across
them to dissipate its heat, and condense into a hot Freon liquid. Warm air
should be blowing when you walk by it outside.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.5 | INSIDE EVAPORATOR UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of a Freon metering device that is either
an expansion valve or capillary tube, coils, and blower fan. Hot Freon
liquid runs through the metering device, evaporates into cold,
low-pressure Freon gas, runs through the coils that allow the gas to
absorb heat and cool the house as the fan blows air through the coil and
out ducts) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.6 | CONDENSATION PAN AND LINES
(Visible condition, checking for leaks, rust or deterioration and where
the line terminates. The pan is where water extracted from the air by the
evaporator runs into. Some systems use a pump to extract water out of the
pan. Central air conditioning systems provide comfort cooling by lowering
air temperature and removing excess moisture.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.7 | WAS TEMPERATURE DROP
MEASUREMENT TAKEN FROM SUPPLY AND RETURN VENTS (A low drop could indicate
low Freon charge. A high drop could indicate a dirty coil, filter or
blower. There are other reasons why the temperature drop is out of range
such as thermostat calibration and humidity.) Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
9.8 | IS COOLING UNIT ADEQUATE FOR
SIZE OF HOUSE (The general rule of thumb is 1 ton for every 550 square
feet of living space.) Comments: INSPECTED |
NUMBER OF FIREPLACES: TWO |
NUMBER OF CHIMNEYS: TWO |
LOCATION: LIVING ROOM |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: STONE AND MORTAR BROWN CERAMIC FLUE LINER |
FIREPLACE INFO: FIREBRICK FIREBOX WOOD BURNING BRICK HEARTH |
LOCATION: UPPER FRONT RIGHT BEDROOM |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: STONE AND MORTAR BROWN CERAMIC FLUE LINER |
FIREPLACE INFO: SEALED FIREBOX NO LONGER FUNCTIONAL |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: BRICK AND MORTAR BROWN CERAMIC FLUE LINER BASEMENT EXHAUST FLUE USAGE NO FIREPLACE |
10.0 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
1,2,3-The house originally had two wood burning firebrick firebrick fireplaces. Older fireplaces such as these are best suited as a flue for a decorative gas log heater, however a complete inspection by a licensed contractor is recommended if wood burning in the main level fireplace is still desired. If there is to be no future usage of any kind then sealing off the flue(s) at the top of the chimney with a permanent metal cap is recommended. The upper level fireplace firebox has been completely sealed and is now only for aesthetic purposes. *****The front right main level living room fireplace firebrick firebox has some loose rear wall bricks and aged, soft, or missing areas of mortar. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended if wood burning is desired. Any future cracks in the brick or mortar can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. It is always recommended that this work be performed by a licensed chimney sweep or fireplace installation and repair contractor. Annual inspection by a licensed fireplace contractor is always recommended. (Maintenance tip.) |
10.1 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection on both fireplaces, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
10.2 | MASONRY SOLID-FUEL BURNING
FIREPLACES (Visible condition. They are made from solid masonry, bricks,
stone, concrete, mortar and require a footer foundation. All walls exposed
to fire should be lined with firebrick or fire-resistive material.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.3 | HEARTH, MANTLE AND WALL
(Visible condition. A hearth is made of brick, concrete, tile, stone, or
other non-combustible material and must extend at least 16 inches in front
of fireplace opening and at least 8 inches on either side of
opening.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.4 | FIREPLACE FIREBOX (Visible
condition. Fireplace fires are caused by thin walls, combustible
materials, wood mantels, unsafe hearths, damaged dampers, improperly
sealed or cracked fireboxes and from a heavy creosote build-up in
flue.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.5 | DAMPER (Visible condition and
operation. When open the lid forms a barrier that prevents downdrafts and
deflects the air upward. When closed it is used to seal off the flue when
the fireplace is not in use.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.6 | DOES FIREPLACE CHIMNEY HAVE A
METAL OR CERAMIC FLUE LINER (Visible condition. Check for excess soot and
creosote along interior flue walls. Most fireplaces that are unlined were
built before the 1950's and are made from stone, block, and common brick,
not firebrick. Exterior of fireplace, chimney, flue liner, and firebox
should be free of visible creosote stains leaking out mortar joints, wood
or metal seams, indicating a broken flue liner or firebox.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.7 | WAS FIREPLACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
FOUNDATION
INFORMATION: CENTER BASEMENT CRAWLSPACE SURROUND |
EXTERIOR WALL
STRUCTURE: STONE AND MORTAR BRICK AND MORTAR |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2X10 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS 1 x 8 WOOD FLOOR DECKING 1 x 10 WOOD FLOOR DECKING |
FLOOR JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
BASEMENT PIERS: 8 BRICK AND MORTAR 3 WOOD 4X6 POSTS 3 STEEL TELESCOPING POSTS 4 WOOD 4X4 POSTS UNDER 4X10 WOOD BEAM |
BASEMENT FLOOR: CONCRETE SLAB |
CRAWLSPACE PIERS: 4 BRICK AND MORTAR UNDER 4X10 WOOD BEAM |
CRAWLSPACE FLOOR: DIRT NO PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER |
METHOD USED TO OBSERVE
CRAWLSPACE: STOOPED |
11.0 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Basements and crawlspace are inherently damp where the use of a dehumidifier(s) to help with air movement and moisture content are always recommended, but not required. Generally speaking winter air is dry where a device call a humidifier can be used to put moisture back in the air, while in the summer air is too damp where a device called a dehumidifier can be used to remove unwanted or excessive moisture from the air. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Air Conditioners Air conditioners in addition to cooling the air, drop the humidity by removing a significant amount of water from the air. During the hot air conditioning times of the summer, it is more economical and practical to NOT open the windows at night even if it cools outside slightly. Leave the house closed up and don't bring the humid air inside. If you do, during the day, the air conditioner will be working that much harder to remove the heat and moisture from the air that was introduced during the night. There is a significant amount of moisture not just in the air, but absorbed by the furniture, wood etc in the house that will need to be removed to lower the humidity level in the house again. For comfort, a humid room will have to be much cooler than a dry room to have the same degree of comfort feel. So, consider this when it cools off a bit outside, if you will be running the A/C again tomorrow and it is still humid outside, don't open the windows. What is a dehumidifier and how does it work? The basic mechanical function of a dehumidifier is the same as a refrigerator. Compression and expansion of a gas is used to lower the temperature of metal coils to freezing temperature. However, instead of the cooling action being directed into a closed box, a dehumidifier is designed to blow warm moist room air over these cold coils. The moisture in the room air condenses on the coils to become liquid water. The water then drips into a drip collection pan, or to a drain. The room air, now freed of much of its moisture, returns to the room slightly warmer than it was. Dehumidifiers are controlled by a device known as a humidistat. This is an adjustable rotary switch which detects moisture in the room's air. It automatically turns the dehumidifier on or off as it is needed, based on the setting you choose. If you wish, you can set the dehumidifier to the maximum setting for continuous operation. Why would I want to purchase one? If you store anything of value in your basement, or if you use your basement as living space, it is important to keep the moisture level low. Unlike the rest of your home, the parts of your foundation that are below ground level, or "grade", is constantly in contact with moisture from the earth outside. Though some homes have adequate vapor and water barriers installed outside their foundations, many older homes have none. This moisture can cause mildew growth and damage to furniture of all types, photos, carpets, and virtually anything except the dog. It is a sad fact that every year people unknowingly destroy their valuable possessions by not taking steps to lower the level of moisture in their basement's air. How big a dehumidifier should I buy? Good question, but the answer is unclear. There are arguments for both large and small dehumidifiers. Large ones remove moisture faster, so they operate for shorter periods of time. However, there is more electricity used per hour to run a larger dehumidifier. Since more electricity is used at "start-up" than during any other time in the cycle, some of the apparent cost benefits of large size are lost. Considering that larger units are also more expensive to purchase, there may be little or no benefit to buying an oversized unit for most people. Bigger can at times really be better! The advantages of size are most noticeable when dehumidifying a large area. A small dehumidifier may run continuously and still never lower the humidity to an acceptable level. A larger unit, by dehumidifying a larger amount of air per hour, can keep up with the demands of a large room. Do I need someone to install it? That depends. Since the condensed water drips from the coils it has to go somewhere. If your basement has only a small moisture problem and you don't mind carrying the drip pan outside or to a sink, just put the dehumidifier on the floor and plug it in. It will shut off automatically when the drip pan is full... hopefully. This is not the most fun way to live with a dehumidifier... the drip pans (especially on the larger units) hold a lot of water and can be quite heavy when full. The solution is to install your dehumidifier so that it is self-draining. If you have a sink or toilet in the basement, or even a lowly floor drain, place the dehumidifier on a table or a shelf and run a hose from the drip pan to the drain. If you do not have a drain you can still make your unit self-draining, but things get more complicated. Since dehumidifiers do not pump water upwards, you may need to install a sink pump. This is a special enclosed pump designed for non-sewage use to move waste water upwards to your plumbing drain pipes. It will work with sinks, washing machines, water softeners, and... yes, dehumidifiers. Another alternative is to put the dehumidifier on a table or shelf so that it can drip into a large container, such as a 5 gallon bucket on the floor. This will decrease your number of trips for sure. The only drawback is that the dehumidifier will have no way to know if the bucket is full, so it will continue to run even after the bucket is full and overflowing all over the new carpet! Should I use a dehumidifier year round? That depends on the temperature of your basement and your local climate. Dehumidifiers do not function well at lower temperatures, so under 65 degrees it is almost a waste of money to run them. Plus, as the air temperature drops, the risk of freezing the coils increases (read the next question for more on freeze-ups). If you heat your basement, the warm air will move moisture from the basement to the house above, keeping the humidity lower in the basement and slightly humidifying the rest of the house. In areas where the ground is frozen for most or all of the winter, the amount of moisture that will migrate through the basement floor and walls will drop dramatically in the winter, so the need for dehumidification decreases. However, if you live in a temperate area, and your basement is not heated, you may have to run the dehumidifier year round. Is there any maintenance to perform? You should check the coils at least seasonally and keep them clear of dust and dirt. If the unit has a removable front cover, there may be a foam filter inside that should also be cleaned. The purpose of this cleaning is two-fold. First, dust and dirt can insulate the coils from the room air, decreasing the efficiency of the dehumidifier. Secondly, this same dirt will get damp and possibly freeze. Freezing is the most damaging thing that can happen to your dehumidifier because it will run continuously but not dehumidify the air. Humidifier Information When the weather is cold, we close the windows and turn up the heat. This is bad news for our comfort and our health. Low humidity can cause dry skin, cracked lips, itchy eyes, sore throat, and sinus headaches. One thing that makes winter uncomfortable for humans, even inside a nice warm building, is low humidity. People need a certain level of humidity to be comfortable. In the winter, indoor humidity can be extremely low and the lack of humidity can dry out your skin and mucous membranes. Low humidity also makes the air feel colder than it actually is. Dry air can also dry out the wood in the walls and floors of our houses. As the drying wood shrinks, it can cause creaks in floors and cracks in drywall and plaster. This is why dehumidifiers are used in the summer and humidifiers are used in the winter. These are just some of the symptoms of living in air that is too dry. A humidifier can sometimes help to relieve these symptoms. *****.Air quality of the home is beyond the scope of the inspection. This information was provided as a courtesy and is not meant to endorse usage. Opinions on and the the use of dehumidifiers and humidifiers may vary. In the event of the presence of air which is "too damp" or "too dry" or upon any questions involving the home's air quality a licensed heating and air or air quality contractor is always recommended. |
11.1 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a basement and/or crawlspace, which are inherently damp, especially ones containing all or some of the heating and air ductwork where some of the air can be recycled throughout the house interior, and possibly cause allergic reactions in some individuals, a licensed air quality or analysis type contractor is always recommended to further investigate which may include air sample and discoloration testing. *****Installation of a ductwork installed type air cleaning system is always recommended, but not required, especially in a basement or crawlspace containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below. 1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Eclipse UV Cleanser or Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation. 2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands. 3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen. |
11.2 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3-The upper section of hallway floor around the rear left bedroom entry and top of stairway appear noticeably lower or slightly sunken. It appears this was caused from basement stairway landing base and rear chimney area wood members issues. This area has been robustly strengthened with additional crawlspace and basement piers and posts where additional sinking should most likely not occur. The 4x4 added pier under the stairway landing was installed on a poured concrete footer, however some of the type of posts added within the basement are not a permanent type. refer to report section 11.5 for additional information and recommendations. |
11.3 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5-The crawlspace and basement floor joists and decking are discolored from normal aging, however appear overall adequate and free of major deterioration of the type associated from moisture. A large section of floor joists, floor decking, and load bearing 4x10 beam have been replaced under the kitchen and half bathroom area. This area at one time permanently was moisture deteriorated, however now appears adequate and robust with new floor joists and a tripled up 2x10 joist beam. This is good! |
11.4 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1-The house consists of a center basement surrounded by crawlspace. Crawlspace ventilation consists of two small vents, one on each side of the front porch. The basement and crawlspace wood members are free of major discolorations associated with moisture issues indicating adequate overall ventilation, however robust or additional ventilation is always recommended, but not required. It appears there may have at one time, been additional ventilation around the perimeter. A window located behind the stairs is still present but completely covered, and several other openings previously used as coal supply doors, windows, or vent openings have also been bricked or boarded. Robust overall basement and crawlspace ventilation is always recommended where ventilation enhancements may include but are not limited to one large fan or several smaller fans placed within the boarded up exterior wall areas. (Maintenance tip.) |
11.5 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
CENTER BASEMENT CONSTRUCTION: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Original foundation construction consisted of full stone and mortar and brick and mortar exterior walls, five front wall brick and mortar crawlspace piers under a solid wood 4x10 load bearing beams and two rows of 4 brick and mortar basement piers or posts under solid wood 4x10 load bearing beams. The basement piers or posts are still present and appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration. This is good, however due to some settling and various wood member issues, some additional support posts have been installed, four 4x4 wood posts and three telescoping adjustable columns around the rear left brick and mortar chimney base, some 4x6 wood posts around a rear located brick and mortar pier, and one telescoping adjustable column beside one furnace unit. The following issues were observed: -One of the telescoping adjustable columns beside the chimney base was installed under a single joist. The other three were installed thicker or stronger load bearing beams. A better arrangement would have been to place a short section of 4x4 beam across two floor joists then the column placed under the center of the added 4x4 beam. -A total of 4 telescopic adjustable columns have been installed, which are not approved in the United States for use as a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. *****Recommend further investigation by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs or strengthening enhancements if determined to be necessary may include but are not limited to the installation of a permanent 3 inch diameter steel pipe posts or solid wood 4x4, 4x6, or 6x6 posts that are all on a solid poured concrete footer or footer pad. |
11.6 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
EXTERIOR WALL AND SURROUNDING CRAWLSPACE: 1,2,3,4,5,6-Exterior main house exterior foundation walls consist of stone and mortar and a couple brick and mortar structures to include the right side fireplace base. The front porch foundation walls consist of brick and mortar piers with stone and mortar filler walls between them. The house has a center basement surrounded by crawlspace. Crawlspace piers are located only along the front under the main front wall load bearing beam where the front porch connects and appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration. The front porch floor joists are supported with 2x4 posts, some of which have been recently replaced. This is good! *****The exterior walls appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration with the exception of a short 10 ft section of brick wall where the rear laundry room connects which has some soft and missing areas. Further investigation by a licensed foundation contractor is recommended which may include additional strengthening with a couple steel pipe posts like the ones shown in sample picture 6. |
11.7 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-The basement floor has a recessed hole for a sump pump. The basement and crawlspace areas appeared overall dry and free of standing water. The property is relatively level however water may enter in some areas during prolonged storm where it is supposed to drain to this hole. There could also be inherent ground water issues which occur during or after weeks of prolonged rain. The sump pump which is supposed to fit down in this hole and pump water out the left foundation wall appears corroded and was not tested. Recommend system service and possible sump pump replacement by a licensed foundation contractor. |
11.8 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4-House wiring is knob-and-tube and aged where some light fixtures in the basement are still hanging by their wires which was characteristic of the time it they were installed. There is also one blue junction box that is missing a cover and some miscellaneous disconnected cables with wire-nuts placed on their ends. Further investigation and safety inspection of these issues by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. |
11.9 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
of girders, piers, columns, supports, foundation walls, floor joists,
decking and wood members, exposed wiring and plumbing. Check that all wood
is free of visible contact with dirt, there is a vapor barrier covering
dirt floor, and crawlspace is free of visible water and debris and all
areas are accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.10 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
and operation of entry hatches and vents. Check for missing and damaged
vent screens that keep animals out of crawlspace.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.11 | ARE ALL CRAWLSPACE AREAS DRY
AND NOT WET OR UNUSUALLY DAMP (Crawlspace is inherently damp even though
there are no problems with water seepage. It is a result of the capillary
rise of ground moisture which can be reduced by covering the ground with a
plastic vapor barrier and having adequate crawlspace ventilation)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.12 | BASEMENT (Visible condition
of unfinished basement floor, foundation structure, exposed wiring and
plumbing, ceilings, walls, cabinets, shelving and workbenches. Check that
basement is free of visible water and that all basement areas are
accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.13 | BASEMENT (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, worksinks, lights, switches, and
outlets. Check that worksinks have an air gap to prevent back
siphonage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.14 | ARE BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE
ELECTRICAL OUTLETS GFCI PROTECTED Comments: INSPECTED |
11.15 | ARE MASONRY SURFACES FREE OF
EFFLORESCENCE DEPOSITS (These are mineral salts in the masonry that
dissolve in water as it passes through walls and floors. After the water
evaporates from the surface, it deposits these white salts. A thick layer
of efflorescence is an indication of considerable seepage.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.16 | ARE FOUNDATION WALLS/FLOORS
FREE OF VISIBLE HORIZONTAL CRACKS, V-CRACKS, OR CRACKS 1/4 INCH OR
LARGER(Horizontal cracks in concrete, brick, or sheetrock could indicate
foundation or structural problems. V-cracks are cracks that are much wider
at the top than the bottom and indicate possible settlement
problems.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.17 | IS CONCRETE FREE OF HEAVING
CRACKS (Heaving cracks are criss-crossed all over and warrant further
investigation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.18 | IS CONCRETE FREE OF SHRINKAGE
OR HAIRLINE CRACKS (These type cracks are normal, cosmetic, usually not
serious and may have been caused from original concrete mix problems or
from settlement after house was constructed. Most likely there should not
be a problem, if the cracks have not worsened with time.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.19 | IS CONCRETE FREE OF FOOTER
FAILURE (This is a crack(s) that runs continuous around the perimeter of
the floor anywhere from 12 to 26 inches from the outside edges and warrant
further investigation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
12.0 | COMPLIMENTARY PHOTOS
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18-Complimentary photos. |