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ACE Home Inspections, LLC P.O. Box 1993 | |
Customer | |
Home |
This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.
This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.
WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING
WALLS
2.1 | WALKWAYS,
DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The short concrete block wall or lip along one side of the rear gravel parking area has become lose and separated. |
PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS,
BANISTERS
3.1 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The short section of Unit 1 kitchen banister overlooking the front entry stairway and the short section of loft banister overlooking the kitchen are too short where replacing or extending to a proper height of 30 or more inches is recommended This could be a safety issue for small children. 3-The section of upper loft overlooking one side of the kitchen stairway is missing a banister where installation is recommended. This could be a safety issue for small children. (safety) |
3.2 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The rear deck steps are missing a hand-rail and the top step board is loose where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to securing board in place and the installation of a hand-rail. (safety) |
3.3 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The steps leading to the Unit 3 unit entry door and stairway to the kitchen level are missing a hand-rail where the installation of a hand-rail is recommended. (safety) |
3.4 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The main stairway to the second floor Unit 2 has a proper banister hand-rail, however the section of steps above the top landing does not where the installation of a short section of hand-rail on either side is recommended. (safety) |
3.5 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-An estimated 15in x 3ft area of the hardwood T&G front porch ceiling is moisture deteriorated to the right of the entry door. Most likely any leakage was repaired when the recent roof covering was installed, making this more of a cosmetic issue. Repairs may include but are not limited to scraping and heavily painting or the splicing in of new wood. |
EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION,
GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
4.3 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The upper wood siding along the sides and rear appear flat and adequate because they area either shaded from the neighboring house or face north meaning less received sunlight and overall weathering. This is good, however the front shingles above the porch roof have from mild to severe areas of weathering. The weathering consists of some discoloration and shingles which no longer are flush where the are noticeably curled and raised. The interior areas did not not show any signs of moisture intrusion, however further investigation of siding overall adequacy by a licensed siding contractor is recommended. There are also a few shingles that are missing or have some deterioration, one in the rear right corner and a couple along the right side. Repairs if determined to be necessary may include but are not limited to replacement of all missing and severely curled or raised shingles and cleaning and refinishing or painting to bring back one color tone. |
4.4 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The house has two separate chimneys. The mortar was poked within the attic and basement and found adequate. This is good, however the roof was not readily accessible where exterior areas could not be poked or closely inspected where a complete chimney inspection by a licensed contractor is recommended. 2-The front right chimney has a metal crown cover and rain caps on both flues. This is good, however the rear left chimney appears to have a metal crown cover. This chimney is still be actively used for venting of the basement located furnace and water heater, however no flue opening rain caps were observed. Further investigation by a licensed contractor, which may include but is not limited to the installation of a proper rain cap or cover such as that shown in picture 4. GENERAL CHIMNEY INFORMATION: Chimney caps are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, or entire chimney top. It is probably the best investment to protect the entire chimney crown. Deteriorated mortar joints are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that diverts water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for mortar joints is called repointing or tuckpointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut out and repacked with new mortar compound. Flashing is the seal between the roofing material/shingles and the chimney and prevents rainwater from running down the chimney into living spaces where it can rot interior walls, ceilings and wood members. A lot of chimneys have an L-type flashing that much be continually sealed where it connects to the brick. Counterflashing that overlaps the base or L-type flashing is always desired. The two-element flashing allows both the roof and chimney to expand and contract at their own rates without breaking the waterproof seal in either area. Your chimney system is an important part of your home heating system. For safer and more efficient operation, your chimney should be checked annually by a CSIA Certified or other licensed Chimney Sweep contractor and cleaned as needed. |
4.5 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Tree limbs or shrubbery was observed along a couple section of the right and rear walls. Plant growth can hold moisture and cause premature aging of materials where trimming is recommended. |
4.6 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) The exterior wood members are free of moisture deterioration with the exception of the small isolated areas listed below. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the splicing in of new wood and/or heavily painting. 1-The lower section of the front plywood left side basement wall opening. 2-A 16in x 48in section of front right corner soffit. 3,4-The lower sections of the main rear entry door frame. |
4.7 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The outer finish along the bottom section of the main front entry door is aged and discolored. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to heavily painting or varnishing or the installation of a decorative metal kick plate. |
4.8 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) The paint finish on the exterior wood members listed below is aged with peeled and missing areas where scraping and heavily painting is recommended. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3-The wood siding lap and trim boards. 4,5,6-The windows, framing, and sill boards. 7-The front soffit and fascia boards. 8-A 4 foot section of recently installed rear soffit boards. |
COMMOM ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (above and beside Unit
3)
5.3 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-The upper loft has two triangular shaped side attics, both of which have debris, with the left one being the worst with miscellaneous old items. Attic areas can get very warm during the summer months where the removal of all debris and unused old items is recommended. |
KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER INTERIOR
ROOMS
6.1 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 1) MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(commode) The commode is loose where it mounts to the floor. Repairs by a licensed plumbing contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to commode removal, inspection of floor decking and flange, new wax seal, commode installation, and caulking around base where it meets the floor. 2-(light flicker) Tenant reports the front entry chandelier light fixture flickers on and off occasionally when someone in using the stairway leading to Unit 2. Further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. 3-(flooring) A small 3in x 2in section of wood floor is missing in the living room. This is a highly traveled area where splicing in new wood or filling with a suitable wood filler is recommended. (trip hazard) 4-(entry door) The front entry door is very loose with plenty of play when locked. This is caused because the deadbolt striker plate that mounts to the door frame is missing. The wood door frame is split down through the deadbolt hole where an oversized type metal striker plate will be required or the installation of a new door frame. 5-(doorbell) Doorbell does not function when the switch is depressed. OTHER ITEMS: -The freezer handle is loose. -Bathroom vinyl floor covering is aged. -Bathroom towel rod is loose. -Tub faucet is loose. -Bathroom door is missing. -Hallway has smoke alarm, bedrooms do not. |
6.3 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 2) MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(entry door) The front entry door is difficult to close because the screws have backed out of the top hinge. This door is a hollow interior type door where a more proper or suitable exterior type solid wood or metal-clad door is recommended for a more robust overall security, however is not required. It should be noted that a solid wood door was observed on the bathroom in Unit 3 and there was also a solid wood door observed in the left side attic in Unit 3, either of which possibly could be utilized as a Unit 2 front entry door. 2-(floor) The kitchen floor has a minor cosmetic area at the entry where heavily caulking is recommended. 3-(counter) The kitchen counter has one small missing area of formica where painting of area is recommended. 4-(carpet) The carpet along the wall from the front entry door to the living room is frayed and needs repaired. 5-(light globe) The front entry ceiling light is missing a globe cover. 6-(wallpaper) Bathroom wallpaper is aged with some curled or raised areas. 7-(sink) The bathroom sink drain area has some corrosion where enamel painting or an oversize drain cover is recommended. 8-(ceiling fan) The rear bedroom ceiling fan has excessive wobble on high speed where proper balancing or alignment is recommended. OTHER ITEMS: -The window a/c unit in the kitchen is adequate but is noisy from vibration when operating. -There is a noticeable area of different colored ceiling around the living room ceiling fan from a previous fan where painting is recommended. -The hardwood T&G finish has worn areas from normal wear and tear. -The living room closet door sticks along the right side of the door frame. -The commode seat is loose. |
6.5 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 3) MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(cover) One side of the double switch cover in the kitchen is unused. Tenant stated there is not enough light in the kitchen where another light fixture could be installed, then this space could be utilized for a switch. If there are no plans to install an additional fixture and switch then recommended a blank cover be installed. 2-(cover) One kitchen outlet is missing a cover. (safety) 3-(commode) The commode is loose where it mounts to the floor. Repairs by a licensed plumbing contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to commode removal, inspection of floor decking and flange, new wax seal, commode installation, and caulking around base where it meets the floor. 4-(caulk) Some acrylic panel shower stall caulking is aged where heavy and robust caulking along all seams and corners is recommended. 5-(receptacle) The outlet receptacle in the kitchen banister post is loose where it moves around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. 6,7-(unknown) Tenant stated there are two light switches in the kitchen of unknown purpose? 8-(wires) Tenant is lifting excess or unused miscellaneous telephone wires where removal was requested. 9-(counter) An edge section of the formica counter has broke loose. This contains some sharp edges where repairs are recommended. 10-(windows) Tenant stated air is felt under lower aluminum window gaps because some close crooked or do not fully close. 11-(cleaning) Tenant requested removal of miscellaneous items from the floor under the kitchen sink cabinet. 12-(doorbell) Unit door bell switch needs repairs. OTHER ITEMS: -The ceiling fan light fixture in the kitchen became inoperative and was reported to management by tenant where it was removed and awaiting parts for repair. This is the only source of kitchen light. -The upper loft center ceiling fan light does not turn on unless the fan is running. The power cord runs along the ceiling and down the wall to an outlet. Tenant requested at the inspection that the fan be changed where the light can be turned on without the fan running. |
6.7 | COMMON
INTERIOR AREAS (corridor, lobby, lounge, hallway, laundry)
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(carpet) The carpet edge along the main front entry door threshold is aged and frayed. 2-(banister) The wood board cap on top of the bottom banister post of the stairway leading to Unit 2 is loose and needs to be secured in place. 3-(cosmetic) There is a noticeable gap around the base of the front corridor hanging light fixture creating a minor cosmetic issue. 4-(wires) Miscellaneous electrical wires are protruding and hanging from the rear corridor ceiling and the ceiling light at the entry area does not turn on. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to a licensed electrical contractor to remove any wires determined to no longer be in-use, additional U-bracket nails to secure hanging wires, and a new bulb or fixture repair |
PLUMBING (Main, Exterior, Water Heater, Washer,
Dryer)
7.1 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM (common) MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(flue piping) Water heater flue piping has some minor corrosion and is loose where it connects at the top of the tank. Recommend the installation of screws and periodic monitoring for any further deterioration. |
ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels,
Exterior)
8.1 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7-(original electrical wiring) There is evidence in the attic and crawlspace that the original house wiring is knob-and-tube. It appears that some of this original wiring is still being used throughout the house for house lighting and outlets. There were places where modern romex was found spliced into the knob-and-tube wiring. It is important to briefly note that knob-and-tube wiring and other types of older wiring is still being used in many old houses. It is generally considered that there is nothing wrong with this kind of wiring, and it shouldn't be condemned just because it is old, however if it is aged and deteriorated where it has not been properly maintained, can be considered a fire and safety hazard. Knob-and-tube wiring consists of two insulated wires run independently a few inches apart. One wire is a hot conductor and the other a neutral return. This is a two wire system with no ground wire. As long as the wire insulation is intact it is not recommended that knob-and-tube wiring be replaced unless grounded outlets are desired. Be aware that it is old wiring and still useable but has no grounds. Knob-and-tube wiring although obsolete, is considered safe. Any system modifications should be made by a licensed electrical contractor. In addition, some outlet receptacles are not grounded as previously mentioned, and as a precautionary measure, they should be used only with appliances that do not require grounding. If sensitive devices, like computers are to be used, it is recommended, but not required, that receptacles be upgraded with grounds which would require replacement of existing wiring by a licensed electrical contractor. Older style NM (non-metallic) cloth cable in existence since the early 1900's. NM cable consists of two or more conductors in a single non-metallic jacket. Two wire cable is called duplex cable. Duplex cable has been around since the early 1900's. Early duplex cable consists of two insulated conductors in a silver-colored jacket or outer cover. Modern NM cable is referred to as Romex and has been in use since 1965. Armored cable perhaps just as old as knob-and-tube wiring is a cable system sometimes called Greenfield or BX cable and terminates in a metal junction box. Armored cable was extremely popular in the early 1900's and consists of a black hot wire and a white neutral wire covered by a spiraled metal jacket or covering. Opinions on older wiring may vary among electrical contractors as safe or unsafe. With the determined presence of older wiring, it is always recommended that the entire house electrical system be further investigated for overall feasibility and safety by a licensed electrical contractor. 8-(breaker) The GFCI type breaker in the main panel located on the rear wall is not labeled and also does NOT test or reset. Recommend a licensed electrical contractor to make repairs which may include but are not limited to labeling after determination of purpose and installation of a new GFCI type breaker. It is always recommended that all electrical panel breakers be properly labeled. 9,10-(breaker) One breaker in the main panel and one beaker in the laundry room sub-panel have two attached wires. This is referred to as double-tapping, is usually not allowed and is considered a fire hazard by the manufacturer. The main panel has some additional openings for breakers, however the laundry room sub-panel is full. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of a new breaker in the main panel, and an additional small sub-panel within the laundry room. 11-(sub-panel) The cover over the breakers in the laundry room sub-panel does not fit properly. There are two noticeable gaps along the bottom two breakers which could be a safety issue for small children. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to removal of plasterboard directly under bottom of panel so cover will fit further in towards the breakers. |
HEATING SYSTEM
9.1 | HEATING
SYSTEM (common) MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(ductwork) A section of ductwork in the front left side of the crawlspace has a split type opening where covering with a foil tape is recommended. |
9.2 | HEATING
SYSTEM (unit 1) MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(floor vent) Some of the floor vent registers are new, however one located above the vicinity of the water heater is severely corroded. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of anew floor vent register. |
9.3 | HEATING
SYSTEM (unit 2) MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-(heat) Unit 2 tenant complained of inadequate heat when system is turned on by Unit 1. The unit has a total of three vent openings, in the living room, rear bedroom, and kitchen. It was uncovered that only the kitchen vent has a heated air supply. Further investigation by a licensed heating and air contractor is recommended. |
FIREPLACE, CHIMNEY
11.2 | FIREPLACE AND
CHIMNEY (common) MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) (chimney) ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
COMMON CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR (below
units 1 and 2)
12.3 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-(walls) The house foundation walls are composed of brick piers with brick filler walls between them. The brick piers are basically what supports the majority of the house load. The mortar between the pier bricks was poked and found to still be adequate. This is good! The majority of the mortar between the filler wall bricks is aged or deteriorated where it is soft or sand-like and can be easily poked or broke off. Some isolated areas of mortar, primarily along the interior side of the front wall are missing. The mortar appears adequate and in place along the exterior sides, however is still somewhat soft when poked. Further investigation and any determined repairs by a licensed foundation specialist and/or brick mason is recommended and may include but are not limited to the repointing of mortar and/or additional support piers. Deteriorated mortar joints are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that diverts water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for mortar joints is called repointing or tuckpointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut out and repacked with new mortar compound. *****In summation, the exterior foundation piers and filler walls are most likely overall adequate based on the fact that they are relatively level, free of major cracking, and the majority of the mortar even though soft in some areas is still in place. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT PROPER MORTAR JOINTS ARE ALWAYS RECOMMENDED. IN THIS CASE THIS WOULD INVOLVE THE REPAIR THROUGH REPOINTING OF MISSING AREAS WHERE ONE MUST DECIDE HOW MUCH ADEQUACY OR ROBUSTNESS IS REQUIRED OR DECIDED TO BE NEEDED. IS IT JUST ENOUGH TO HAVE THE STRUCTURE WHERE IT IS JUST ADEQUATE WHERE IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN OR IS ROBUSTNESS DESIRED WHERE ALL SOFT MORTAR WOULD NEED TO BE REPAIRED? DECISIONS SUCH AS THIS ARE BEYOND THE SCOPE OF THE INSPECTION WHERE IN CASES SUCH AS THIS WHERE THERE ARE AREAS OF AGED MORTAR, A LICENSED FOUNDATION SPECIALIST OR BRICK MASON IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED FOR FURTHER INVESTIGATION AND OPINIONS. |
12.4 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(natural gas) The section of the corroded metal natural gas piping at the bottom of the basement stairs was tested and found free of leakage however consideration of replacement by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
12.5 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) (piers) Basement and crawlspace center piers consist of varying types with the original piers made of brick and mortar. Overall construction consists of three brick and mortar piers and two 4x6 wood piers down the center from front to rear under a solid wood 4x10 beam placed perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Several issues regarding the center piers are listed below. Further investigation and repairs by a licensed foundation contractor or specialist is always recommended. 1,2,3,4,5-The edges on one side of the rearmost brick and mortar pier supporting the end of the main 4x10 center beam has broken off where an additional pier similar to the ones installed under the laundry area (4x4 wood, 6x6 wood, or a steel pipe post, all on a poured concrete footer or pad) is recommended. An adequate pier placed in the right side crawlspace is relatively level and appears adequate. 6,7,8,9-A 4x4 support post has been placed in the middle of the basement between the left wall and the center piers. It however was placed directly under a single floor joist. The joist appears somewhat turned, possibly from load. placement of all piering under doubled up joists or under a beam placed perpendicular to the existing floor joists is always recommended. Refer to picture 9 for basic concept. 10,11-Two adjustable telescoping columns or jack posts were observed in the basement, one at the bottom of the stairs and another in the center. Telescopic adjustable columns are not approved in the United States for use a s a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. Recommend further investigation and repair by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs may include but are not limited to the installation of permanent steel pipe posts that are at least 3 inches in diameter. |
12.6 | COMMON,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) (electrical) Several small electrical issues were observed within the basement and crawlspace which are listed below. Repairs by a licensed electrical contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to placement of all wiring splices in proper junction boxes, removal of any unused or aged wiring along with any other repairs deemed necessary. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-Wire splices under vicinity of Unit 1 bathroom. 2-Wire splices in the corner directly under Unit 1 rear bedroom. 3-Open ended wires within a small unused service disconnect box in the vicinity above the water heater. 4-A wall switch of unknown purpose in the middle of the basement along the ceiling. 5-The lighting would not turn on where the proper switch may not have been located or the bulbs maybe bad? 6-The ceramic ceiling light fixture has pulled loose from the junction box. |
12.7 | COMMON
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-(water leak) The crawlspace and basement wood members are darker discolored from aging, however still appear adequate. Some areas of floor decking and joists in the laundry room have been replaced. The wood members under Unit 1 bathroom have some areas of discoloration and deterioration most likely from shower overspill from not closing the doors or curtains properly and/or from previous and since repaired leaks. These areas were poked with the majority found to still be structurally adequate. The majority of the original metal water piping and cast iron and metal drain piping has been upgraded with CPVC, and PVC which was found free of leakage with the exception of a small drip type leak from one of the CPVC pipes going to the tub in Unit 1 where repair by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
12.8 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(piping) A couple of the CPVC plastic water pipes are drooping in the middle of the basement where additional hangers are recommended. |
12.9 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-(dryer exhaust) The vinyl flex hose has pulled loose and now exhausts directly into the crawlspace. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to securing hose back in place. |
Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property.
1.0 | GENERAL INFORMATION
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends used carpets be properly cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and an air quality or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present, before closing. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not dismantle or open any non readily accessible areas such as air vents or ductwork and does not move objects or furniture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects of any kind such as any cracked tile or torn and soiled carpet under furniture. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and lists all conditions at the time of inspection, where the inspection is like a snapshot in time. For example a component proved to be in working order at time of inspection, could be malfunctioning soon after moving in at no fault of ACE Home Inspections, LLC. ACE Home Inspections, LLC only tests a random sampling of house smoke alarms always recommends that ALL smoke alarms be tested and replaced if found defective before moving in. It is always recommended that a local fire department be contacted to determine where smoke alarms should be installed since each jurisdiction may have different standards. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees. A home inspection is like a snap shot in time where component conditions are noted at the time of inspection. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for component conditions occurring after the time of the inspection. |
LANDSCAPING: FRONT SLOPES DOWN TO STREET FRONT SLOPES DOWN TO LEFT REAR SLOPES DOWN TO LEFT |
RETAINING WALLS: NONE |
WALKWAYS AND
DRIVEWAYS: FRONT CITY STREET PARKING REAR GRAVEL 4-CAR PARKING |
2.0 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. (Maintenance tip.) 1,2,3,4-The far front drains down to the street. The front and rear have a slight slope down to the left. The yard between the house and the right side neighbor is relatively level where small isolated areas of water may collect in any isolated low areas each time it rains until it evaporates and dissipates into the ground. It does not appear that this would significantly effect the house foundation where they would be more of a nuisance. Since it was not raining at the time of inspection, any areas of collection are not known where areas should be monitored during a storm. Recommend further investigation and repairs by a licensed landscaping contractor if any drainage issues such as sizeable collections should develop which take excessively long to dissipate and remain soft and squishy, especially if against or near any of the foundation walls. Repairs or drainage enhancements at that time may include but are not limited to filling low areas with additional compacted soil or if near or against a wall, the installation of a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard, parallel with the wall. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion. |
2.1 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
1,2-The short concrete block wall or lip along one side of the rear gravel parking area has become lose and separated. |
2.2 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS (Visible condition. Checking for proper water
runoff away from the house, the landscape for presence of holes, sunken
areas, bald spots, eroding areas, and tripping hazards, trees and
vegetation clearances, and drainage weep holes or drains at the base of
retaining walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
FRONT PORCH: HIP ROOF OFF HOUSE T&G CEILING AND FLOOR STONE & MORTAR COLUMNS STONE & MORTAR FOUNDATION STONE & MORTAR 1/4 WALLS |
REAR DECK: NO ROOF 2X6 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS SPACED 24 INCHES APART 4X4 WOOD SUPPORT POSTS |
STEPS AND STAIRWAYS: CONCRETE FRONT YARD STEPS CONCRETE FRONT PORCH STEPS WOOD REAR DECK STEPS FRONT CORRIDOR STAIRWAY REAR CORRIDOR STAIRWAY WOOD BASEMENT STAIRWAY |
RAILINGS AND
BANISTERS: FRONT STEEL PIPE RAILINGS WOOD INTERIOR HAND-RAILS |
3.0 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2,3-The stone and mortar front porch foundation walls are relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration, however there are some noticeable areas of mortar missing, primarily on the right wall, where filling areas with new mortar or hard drying caulk is recommended. This will improve the aesthetics and also allow monitoring for any future movement through periodic viewing for cracks. (Maintenance tip.) |
3.1 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2-The short section of Unit 1 kitchen banister overlooking the front entry stairway and the short section of loft banister overlooking the kitchen are too short where replacing or extending to a proper height of 30 or more inches is recommended This could be a safety issue for small children. 3-The section of upper loft overlooking one side of the kitchen stairway is missing a banister where installation is recommended. This could be a safety issue for small children. (safety) |
3.2 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The rear deck steps are missing a hand-rail and the top step board is loose where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to securing board in place and the installation of a hand-rail. (safety) |
3.3 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The steps leading to the Unit 3 unit entry door and stairway to the kitchen level are missing a hand-rail where the installation of a hand-rail is recommended. (safety) |
3.4 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The main stairway to the second floor Unit 2 has a proper banister hand-rail, however the section of steps above the top landing does not where the installation of a short section of hand-rail on either side is recommended. (safety) |
3.5 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-An estimated 15in x 3ft area of the hardwood T&G front porch ceiling is moisture deteriorated to the right of the entry door. Most likely any leakage was repaired when the recent roof covering was installed, making this more of a cosmetic issue. Repairs may include but are not limited to scraping and heavily painting or the splicing in of new wood. |
3.6 | PORCH (Visible condition of
roof, eaves, gutters, attic, ventilation, columns, foundation, floor,
coverings, storage closets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.7 | PORCH (Visible condition and
operation of doors, lights, switches, and outlets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.8 | COMMON HALLWAYS AND CORRIDORS
(Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, cabinets,
lights, switches, outlets, heating, cooling.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.9 | STOOPS, STEPS, STAIRS,
BANISTERS, AND RAILINGS (Visible condition. Checking for potential
tripping hazards from variations in step riser heights, narrow tread
steps, unlevel steps or steep stairs. Checking for adequate
headroom.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.10 | SPACINGS BETWEEN ANY TWO
RAILING BANISTERS OF 4 TO 5 INCHES OR LESS (Safety issue for
children.) Comments: INSPECTED |
EXTERIOR DOORS: FRONT IS WOOD REAR IS WOOD DEADBOLTS |
HOUSE WINDOWS: MAIN HOUSE WOOD DOUBLE-HUNG SINGLE-PANE |
HOUSE WINDOWS: REAR ALUMINUM SINGLE-PANE SINGLE-HUNG |
HOUSE SIDING: SOLID WOOD LAP BOARDS UPPER WOOD SHINGLES |
SOFFIT/FASCIA
MATERIAL: WOOD |
VIEWED ROOF FROM: GROUND (binoculars) |
ROOF TYPE: MAIN IS HIP |
ROOF COVERING: FIBERGLASS ASPHALT SHINGLES |
ESTIMATED ROOF AGE: OWNER STATED SUMMER 2006 ESTIMATED 1 YEAR OLD |
LAYERS: ONE |
ROOF VENTILATION: GABLE VENTS |
ROOF PENETRATIONS: 1 METAL PLUMBING PIPE |
GUTTER MATERIAL: NO GUTTERS PRESENT |
CHIMNEY(S): TWO CHIMNEYS |
SKY LIGHT (S): NONE |
FOUNDATION MATERIAL: BRICK AND MORTAR |
4.0 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION House siding, exterior window framing, entry door frames, and soffit and fascia are wood and subject to deterioration if not properly maintained. It is strongly recommended that all exterior wood be painted on a periodic basis. The whole point is to prevent moisture damage which leads to costly total replacement. The bottom six to twelve inches of wood door frames are notorious for rapid deterioration when not properly maintained. It is very important to at least once a year, and more if needed, to keep at least the bottom six to twelve inches caulked and painted. IT CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH THAT PERIODIC PAINTING OF ALL WOOD SURFACES IS A MUST!!! Whenever small cracks start to develop at the end of the boards, it is time to paint! (Maintenance tip.) |
4.1 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3-The roof covering and flashing appear adequate with no loose or missing sections and owner stated it was recently replaced last summer of 2006. This is good! |
4.2 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The main rear entry door frame has some minor splits or cracks along the striker holes, however still appears overall adequate. The door knob striker plate has bee heavily shimmed where the installation of a larger or oversized type striker plate is recommended, but is not required. |
4.3 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3-The upper wood siding along the sides and rear appear flat and adequate because they area either shaded from the neighboring house or face north meaning less received sunlight and overall weathering. This is good, however the front shingles above the porch roof have from mild to severe areas of weathering. The weathering consists of some discoloration and shingles which no longer are flush where the are noticeably curled and raised. The interior areas did not not show any signs of moisture intrusion, however further investigation of siding overall adequacy by a licensed siding contractor is recommended. There are also a few shingles that are missing or have some deterioration, one in the rear right corner and a couple along the right side. Repairs if determined to be necessary may include but are not limited to replacement of all missing and severely curled or raised shingles and cleaning and refinishing or painting to bring back one color tone. |
4.4 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1-The house has two separate chimneys. The mortar was poked within the attic and basement and found adequate. This is good, however the roof was not readily accessible where exterior areas could not be poked or closely inspected where a complete chimney inspection by a licensed contractor is recommended. 2-The front right chimney has a metal crown cover and rain caps on both flues. This is good, however the rear left chimney appears to have a metal crown cover. This chimney is still be actively used for venting of the basement located furnace and water heater, however no flue opening rain caps were observed. Further investigation by a licensed contractor, which may include but is not limited to the installation of a proper rain cap or cover such as that shown in picture 4. GENERAL CHIMNEY INFORMATION: Chimney caps are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, or entire chimney top. It is probably the best investment to protect the entire chimney crown. Deteriorated mortar joints are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that diverts water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for mortar joints is called repointing or tuckpointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut out and repacked with new mortar compound. Flashing is the seal between the roofing material/shingles and the chimney and prevents rainwater from running down the chimney into living spaces where it can rot interior walls, ceilings and wood members. A lot of chimneys have an L-type flashing that much be continually sealed where it connects to the brick. Counterflashing that overlaps the base or L-type flashing is always desired. The two-element flashing allows both the roof and chimney to expand and contract at their own rates without breaking the waterproof seal in either area. Your chimney system is an important part of your home heating system. For safer and more efficient operation, your chimney should be checked annually by a CSIA Certified or other licensed Chimney Sweep contractor and cleaned as needed. |
4.5 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2-Tree limbs or shrubbery was observed along a couple section of the right and rear walls. Plant growth can hold moisture and cause premature aging of materials where trimming is recommended. |
4.6 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
The exterior wood members are free of moisture deterioration with the exception of the small isolated areas listed below. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the splicing in of new wood and/or heavily painting. 1-The lower section of the front plywood left side basement wall opening. 2-A 16in x 48in section of front right corner soffit. 3,4-The lower sections of the main rear entry door frame. |
4.7 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The outer finish along the bottom section of the main front entry door is aged and discolored. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to heavily painting or varnishing or the installation of a decorative metal kick plate. |
4.8 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
The paint finish on the exterior wood members listed below is aged with peeled and missing areas where scraping and heavily painting is recommended. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3-The wood siding lap and trim boards. 4,5,6-The windows, framing, and sill boards. 7-The front soffit and fascia boards. 8-A 4 foot section of recently installed rear soffit boards. |
4.9 | WINDOWS, SHUTTERS AND AWNINGS
(Visible condition and checking for the presence and functionality of
window flashing and operation of windows and window locks.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.10 | ENTRY DOORS, STORM DOORS,
SECURITY DOORS, AND DOORBELL (Visible condition and operation, checking
hardware, locks, coverings, frame, trim, weatherstripping, presence of
deadbolts on all exterior doors, proper locking, opening, and closing of
sliding glass doors, and the presence of a security dead-pin in all
sliding glass doors.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.11 | FOUNDATION WALLS AND MORTAR
JOINTS (Visible condition, checking for cracked, crumbled, loose, missing,
eroded areas, or large gaps) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.12 | EXTERIOR WALL COVERINGS,
FLASHING,TRIM, AND CAULKING (Visible condition. A wall flashing is defined
as a material used around angles or junctions on exterior walls to prevent
water leakage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.13 | HOUSE FRAMING (Visible
condition, checking for any cracks developing outside of the house, cracks
between a chimney and the exterior wall or any cracks running outward at
an angle from the upper corners of windows and door frames.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.14 | OUTSIDE ACCESS TO HOUSE IS
RODENT PROOF Comments: INSPECTED |
4.15 | ROOF COVERING (Visible
condition. Checking roof penetrations such as, roof vents, ridge vents,
wind turbines, soffit vents, gable vents, chimneys, furnace flues, water
heater flues, plumbing vents, skylights and any other penetrations.
Checking flashings which are used to seal around roof penetrations and
intersections. Checking rain caps on chimneys and flues.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.16 | SOFFIT, FASCIA, EAVES,
GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS (Visible condition. Checking if gutters are provided
where necessary, including porches, flat roofs, and dormers. Checking
whether splasblocks are in place if underground piping is not used for
rain gutter drainage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
ROOF STRUCTURE: 2X4 WOOD RAFTERS 1X3 WOOD SLAT DECKING NEW PRESSED WOOD DECKING |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2X6 WOOD CEILING JOISTS |
INSULATION TYPE: FIBERGLASS |
INSULATION INCHES: 2 TO 3 INCHES |
R- VALUE: R-11 |
ATTIC INFO: 1 RIGHT LOWER ATTIC 1 LEFT LOWER ATTIC ORIGINAL ATTIC INTO LOFT |
ACCESS LOCATED IN: UNIT 3 LOFT CLOSETS |
RAFTER SPACING: 24 INCHES |
JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
5.0 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5-Overall attic and roof construction is adequate with 2x4 rafters, 2x6 ceiling joists, and new pressed wood roof decking was installed when the roof covering was replaced last summer. This is good! |
5.1 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5-The majority of the original main upper house attic has been converted into a finished loft where plasterboard has been installed directly to the 2x4 rafters and short side walls constructed. A total of 3 1/2 inches of insulation with a resistance to heat ratio of R-11 was observed between the plasterboard and the roof decking and along the backside of the short lower loft walls. |
5.2 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-Original house ceilings and walls consist of plaster held in place with wood furring strips, as shown. The majority of the house walls and ceilings still appear to be plaster, however some have been covered with plasterboard. |
5.3 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4-The upper loft has two triangular shaped side attics, both of which have debris, with the left one being the worst with miscellaneous old items. Attic areas can get very warm during the summer months where the removal of all debris and unused old items is recommended. |
5.4 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION: Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire. Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer. Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number. |
5.5 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (Visible
condition. Checking attic insulation, exposed wiring, lights and water
pipes. Checking to see that all attic areas are accessible, all exposed
sections of chimney in attic are free of soot and creosote leakage, that
soffit vents are not covered with insulation, and attic ventilation vent
screening which keeps animals out) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.6 | GAS FLUE AND CHIMNEY
FIRESTOPPING (Visible condition. Firestopping refers to size of the hole
made in the ceiling and roof so as to maintain the proper clearance from a
hot metal flue pipe or chimney brick.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.7 | DO ALL FLUES AND VENTS
PRESENT IN ATTIC TERMINATE TO THE EXTERIOR (Water heater flue, furnace
flue, metal chimney flue, plumbing vents, bathroom fan vents, range hood
vent, dryer vent, etc...) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.8 | RAFTERS, DECKING, JOISTS OR
TRUSSES (Visible condition. Check for rafters pulling away from ridge
board, rot, cracks, splits, cut, altered or missing supports.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
5.9 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE ROOF
LEAKS OR DETERIORATION (Flashing refers to materials, usually metal, that
join parts of the house to the roof. Common places where roof leaks occur
are flashings around chimneys, metal gas flues, plumbing vents, turbines,
dormers, valleys, or any other roof penetrations or intersections.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
5.10 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE
CONDENSATION OR MOISTURE DAMAGE DUE TO IMPROPER VENTILATION (Often what
appears to be a leak is in fact condensation, and a sign of inadequate
ventilation. Proper attic ventilation reduces heat in summer and prevents
condensation in winter. It allows air to carry off water vapor before it
can condense and cause moisture damage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
UTILITIES (unit 1): 40% WATER BILL 40% POWER BILL 40% NATURAL GAS BILL |
UTILITIES (unit 2): 40% WATER BILL 40% POWER BILL 40% NATURAL GAS BILL |
UTILITIES (unit 3): 20% WATER BILL 20% POWER BILL 20% NATURAL GAS BILL |
REFRIGERATOR (unit
1): FRIGIDAIRE DATED 11/2004 |
REFRIGERATOR (unit
2): WHIRLPOOL DATED 08/1987 |
REFRIGERATOR (unit
3): WHIRLPOOL DATED UNKNOWN |
STOVE AND OVEN (unit
1): HOTPOINT NATURAL GAS |
STOVE AND OVEN (unit
2): KENMORE ELECTRIC |
STOVE AND OVEN (unit
3): NONE |
INTERIOR INFO (unit
1): 2 BEDROOMS EAT-IN KITCHEN FORMICA KITCHEN COUNTERS FRONT AND REAR ACCESS |
INTERIOR INFO (unit
2): 2 BEDROOMS EAT-IN KITCHEN FORMICA KITCHEN COUNTERS FRONT ONLY ACCESS |
INTERIOR INFO (unit
3): LOFT BEDROOM & LIVING ROOM LOWER KITCHEN LEVEL ORIGINAL ATTIC LOFT ROOM REAR ONLY ACCESS |
BATHROOM INFO (unit
1): 1 FULL BATHROOM METAL TUB ACRYLIC PANEL SURROUND CULTURED MARBLE SINK VANITY |
BATHROOM INFO (unit
2): 1 FULL BATHROOM 1-PIECE ACRYLIC TUB WALL SINK / NO VANITY |
BATHROOM INFO (unit
3): 1 FULL BATHROOM CERAMIC TILE SHOWER STALL CERAMIN TILE SINK VANITY |
INTERIOR CEILING
COVERINGS: PLASTER AND WOOD FURRING MODERN PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR WALL
COVERINGS: PLASTER AND WOOD FURRING MODERN PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR FLOOR
COVERINGS: HARDWOOD T&G CARPET VINYL |
6.0 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 1)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Complimentary Unit 1 pictures. 9,10-The stove and oven burners are functional. This is good! 11,12,13,14-The sink basins were filled to inspect water and drain piping for any signs of leakage. *****Kitchen and bathroom drain piping utilizes old style S-traps, as shown. With an S-trap, wastewater continues to flow after the fixture is emptied and clears the trap. Plumbing systems are vented to prevent trap water seal loss, which can allow sewer gases to enter the house. Old style S-traps are known to frequently lose this water seal. It is recommended, but not required, that all S-traps be replaced with a proper P-trap (which are approved for use by plumbing codes), by a licensed plumbing contractor. 15,16,17,18,19-Some noticeable areas of brown moisture discoloration were observed on the suspended ceiling tiles in the rear bedroom. This bedroom is directly under the bathroom in Unit 2. The original plaster ceiling was found to have areas of severe deterioration from previous leakage. It appears that the majority of the original metal/cast iron drain piping has been upgraded with PVC and some water piping with copper and the floor structure replaced or reinforced with new joists and plywood decking. The above fixtures were operated and there were no signs of leakage, indicating adequate repairs. Much of the original ceiling is deteriorated which is most likely why a suspended ceiling was installed. In summing this area up it appears that this appears to be a minor cosmetic issue where suspended ceiling tile replacement or touching up with paint is recommended. OTHER ITEMS: -The refrigerator floor area appears low making the unit appear uneven or leaning. This area is directly to the right of the main 4x10 center beam. No evidence of deterioration was observed from within the crawlspace where most likely this area should be adequate. |
6.1 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 1)
1-(commode) The commode is loose where it mounts to the floor. Repairs by a licensed plumbing contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to commode removal, inspection of floor decking and flange, new wax seal, commode installation, and caulking around base where it meets the floor. 2-(light flicker) Tenant reports the front entry chandelier light fixture flickers on and off occasionally when someone in using the stairway leading to Unit 2. Further investigation by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended. 3-(flooring) A small 3in x 2in section of wood floor is missing in the living room. This is a highly traveled area where splicing in new wood or filling with a suitable wood filler is recommended. (trip hazard) 4-(entry door) The front entry door is very loose with plenty of play when locked. This is caused because the deadbolt striker plate that mounts to the door frame is missing. The wood door frame is split down through the deadbolt hole where an oversized type metal striker plate will be required or the installation of a new door frame. 5-(doorbell) Doorbell does not function when the switch is depressed. OTHER ITEMS: -The freezer handle is loose. -Bathroom vinyl floor covering is aged. -Bathroom towel rod is loose. -Tub faucet is loose. -Bathroom door is missing. -Hallway has smoke alarm, bedrooms do not. |
6.2 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 2)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7-Complimentary Unit 2 pictures. 8,9-The sink basins were filled to inspect water and drain piping for any signs of leakage. 10,11,12-The stove and oven elements are functional. This is good! 13,14-Some noticeable areas of brown moisture discoloration were observed on the plaster ceiling beside the in the rear hallway storage room entry door. This area is under unit 3, however cause is unknown. Recommend heavily painting area future monitoring for any signs of recurring leakage. 15,16,17,18,19-One suspended ceiling tile in the short section at the end of the hallway has some noticeable broken off areas. The above area was inspected and found to have miscellaneous wiring. It is unknown what caused the missing areas. This appears to be a cosmetic issue where the installing of new suspended ceiling tile is recommended. OTHER ITEMS: -Bedrooms have a smoke alarm. |
6.3 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 2)
1-(entry door) The front entry door is difficult to close because the screws have backed out of the top hinge. This door is a hollow interior type door where a more proper or suitable exterior type solid wood or metal-clad door is recommended for a more robust overall security, however is not required. It should be noted that a solid wood door was observed on the bathroom in Unit 3 and there was also a solid wood door observed in the left side attic in Unit 3, either of which possibly could be utilized as a Unit 2 front entry door. 2-(floor) The kitchen floor has a minor cosmetic area at the entry where heavily caulking is recommended. 3-(counter) The kitchen counter has one small missing area of formica where painting of area is recommended. 4-(carpet) The carpet along the wall from the front entry door to the living room is frayed and needs repaired. 5-(light globe) The front entry ceiling light is missing a globe cover. 6-(wallpaper) Bathroom wallpaper is aged with some curled or raised areas. 7-(sink) The bathroom sink drain area has some corrosion where enamel painting or an oversize drain cover is recommended. 8-(ceiling fan) The rear bedroom ceiling fan has excessive wobble on high speed where proper balancing or alignment is recommended. OTHER ITEMS: -The window a/c unit in the kitchen is adequate but is noisy from vibration when operating. -There is a noticeable area of different colored ceiling around the living room ceiling fan from a previous fan where painting is recommended. -The hardwood T&G finish has worn areas from normal wear and tear. -The living room closet door sticks along the right side of the door frame. -The commode seat is loose. |
6.4 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 3)
1,2,3,4-Complimentary Unit 3 pictures. 5,6,7,8-The sink basins were filled to inspect water and drain piping for any signs of leakage. *****Bathroom drain piping utilizes old style S-traps, as shown. With an S-trap, wastewater continues to flow after the fixture is emptied and clears the trap. Plumbing systems are vented to prevent trap water seal loss, which can allow sewer gases to enter the house. Old style S-traps are known to frequently lose this water seal. It is recommended, but not required, that all S-traps be replaced with a proper P-trap (which are approved for use by plumbing codes), by a licensed plumbing contractor. 9,10,11-Some of the areas where two sections of plasterboard ceiling join can be seen from the way in which it was installed and some seaming tape has separated creating some minor cosmetic issues in the upper loft and over the kitchen. |
6.5 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, ALL OTHER
INTERIOR ROOMS (unit 3)
1-(cover) One side of the double switch cover in the kitchen is unused. Tenant stated there is not enough light in the kitchen where another light fixture could be installed, then this space could be utilized for a switch. If there are no plans to install an additional fixture and switch then recommended a blank cover be installed. 2-(cover) One kitchen outlet is missing a cover. (safety) 3-(commode) The commode is loose where it mounts to the floor. Repairs by a licensed plumbing contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to commode removal, inspection of floor decking and flange, new wax seal, commode installation, and caulking around base where it meets the floor. 4-(caulk) Some acrylic panel shower stall caulking is aged where heavy and robust caulking along all seams and corners is recommended. 5-(receptacle) The outlet receptacle in the kitchen banister post is loose where it moves around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. 6,7-(unknown) Tenant stated there are two light switches in the kitchen of unknown purpose? 8-(wires) Tenant is lifting excess or unused miscellaneous telephone wires where removal was requested. 9-(counter) An edge section of the formica counter has broke loose. This contains some sharp edges where repairs are recommended. 10-(windows) Tenant stated air is felt under lower aluminum window gaps because some close crooked or do not fully close. 11-(cleaning) Tenant requested removal of miscellaneous items from the floor under the kitchen sink cabinet. 12-(doorbell) Unit door bell switch needs repairs. OTHER ITEMS: -The ceiling fan light fixture in the kitchen became inoperative and was reported to management by tenant where it was removed and awaiting parts for repair. This is the only source of kitchen light. -The upper loft center ceiling fan light does not turn on unless the fan is running. The power cord runs along the ceiling and down the wall to an outlet. Tenant requested at the inspection that the fan be changed where the light can be turned on without the fan running. |
6.6 | COMMON INTERIOR AREAS
(corridor, lobby, lounge, hallway, laundry)
1,2-Complimentary front corridor and stairway pictures. 3,4,5-Complimentary rear corridor and laundry area pictures. 6-The plaster walls along the front stairway have some areas of minor cracking from aging. This is a minor cosmetic issue where heavily painting or smoothing with wallboard compound, sanding, and painting is recommended. |
6.7 | COMMON INTERIOR AREAS
(corridor, lobby, lounge, hallway, laundry)
1-(carpet) The carpet edge along the main front entry door threshold is aged and frayed. 2-(banister) The wood board cap on top of the bottom banister post of the stairway leading to Unit 2 is loose and needs to be secured in place. 3-(cosmetic) There is a noticeable gap around the base of the front corridor hanging light fixture creating a minor cosmetic issue. 4-(wires) Miscellaneous electrical wires are protruding and hanging from the rear corridor ceiling and the ceiling light at the entry area does not turn on. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to a licensed electrical contractor to remove any wires determined to no longer be in-use, additional U-bracket nails to secure hanging wires, and a new bulb or fixture repair |
6.8 | KITCHEN (Visible condition of
ceiling, walls, cabinets, shelving, countertops, plumbing. Checking that
all outlets within six feet of sink have GFCI protection, and there are
separate water shut-off valves for faucet, dishwasher, and
ice-maker.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.9 | KITCHEN (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, lights,
switches, outlets, sink, faucet, spray nozzle and all appliances staying
with house: range, oven, microwave, vent hood, dishwasher, disposal,
refrigerator or any other appliances. Checking that sink and dishwasher
drain properly, and hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature
are adequate.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.10 | RANGE HOOD VENTING SYSTEM (If
range hood is nonvented type, is there a clean charcoal or aluminum filter
in place. A nonvented hood is for filtering odors and grease vapors and
will not remove heat or steam like a vented range hood. A non-vented range
hood is identified by louvers on the front of the hood and does not vent
to exterior as a vented hood does.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.11 | ARE FAUCETS FREE OF HAMMERING
AND VIBRATING NOISES WHEN TURNED ON/OFF RAPIDLY (This occurs when water
flowing in the pipe comes to an abrupt stop, introducing shock and
vibrations that can damage pipes or fittings. It is caused by improper
sized pipes and can be fixed with an air chamber or antiknock coil which
provides an air cushion to absorb shock.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.12 | DOES SINK DRAIN INTO A P-TRAP
UNDER THE SINK (A trap is needed to provide a water seal that blocks sewer
gases from seeping back into house. Some homes still have S-type traps
that do not always vent properly. If a sucking and gurgling noise occurs
after almost all the water has drained, the water seal has been lost. All
S-traps should be converted to P-traps.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.13 | DOES SINK HAVE AN AIR GAP TO
PREVENT BACK SIPHONAGE (Simply speaking, the air gap prevents the dirty
sink water from being sucked back into the clean water supply pipes
through the end of the faucet if the sink should overflow. There should be
a gap of at least 1 inch between the end of the faucet where the water
exits and the flood rim of the sink.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.14 | WAS GAS RANGE/COOKTOP AREA
CHECKED WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
6.15 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition of ceilings and walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.16 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, lights, switches,
outlets) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.17 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
of ceiling, walls, cabinets, countertops, and caulking.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.18 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, exhaust
fans, lights, switches, outlets, sinks, tubs, showers, and commodes.
Checking presence of cut-off valves for faucets and commodes, proper
draining of sinks, tubs, showers and commodes, use of P-traps and not old
S-traps, proper air-gap for sinks, tubs, and hand-held shower wands to
prevent back siphonage, faucets for improper hammering and vibrating
noises when turned on/off rapidly, adequacy of hot and cold water
pressure, volume, and temperature, exhaust fans for proper venting to
building exterior and outlet GFCI protection.) Comments: INSPECTED |
PLUMBING SUPPLY: COPPER |
DISTRIBUTION: COPPER 1/2 INCH POTABLE CPVC |
PLUMBING WASTE: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING |
WASTE SYSTEM: UNKNOWN |
WATER SOURCE: PUBLIC |
WATER CUT-OFF: AT STREET |
WATER HEATER POWER
SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
WATER HEATER
LOCATION: CRAWLSPACE |
MANUFACTURER: GENERAL ELECTRIC DATED 05/2002 |
CAPACITY: 40 GAL |
DRYER POWER SOURCE: 220 ELECTRIC |
WASHER: WHIRLPOOL CYCLED OKAY |
DRYER: GENERAL ELECTRIC CYCLED OKAY |
BATHROOM PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING WIRE-FLEX WATER HOSES WHITE-FLEX WATER HOSES |
KITCHEN PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING GRAY WATER TUBING WHITE-FLEX WATER HOSES |
7.0 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
(common)
1,2,3-The natural gas water heater is functional and the flame characteristics are blue with some orange streaking. The orange streaking can be caused by burning dust in the combustion air is not a problem unless excessive. The unit is dated 2002 making it only about 5 years old. If gasoline or flammable liquids are to be stored within the basement, then a proper stand that lifts the water heater point of ignition a minimum of 18 inches off the floor so that gasoline vapors are not ignited by the pilot or burner flame, is always recommended. The TPR valve has a proper 3/4 inch discharge or extension pipe. This is good! ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. 3,4-The natural gas is a 1/2 psi system, which utilizes a single regulator and not one at each gas appliance. The meter is located within the crawlspace under the house and is read by the gas company through a small opening in the right foundation wall. Whenever gas is present, properly installed carbon monoxide detection is ALWAYS recommended, but not required, at each appliance. Carbon monoxide hovers closest to the ground where each detector should be installed no higher than midways up a wall and should be periodically tested and replaced if faulty. (safety tip.) 5-Furnace and water heater flue piping connect into the rear left chimney. 6-There was no potable water expansion tank observed which are always recommended but are NOT required. (Maintenance tip.) ADDITIONAL EXPANSION TANK INFORMATION: A potable water expansion tank is always recommended, but not required between the cold water line and the water pressure reducing valve. It is designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands and in a domestic hot water system the system may be closed when isolated by a pressure reducing valve. Provisions should be made for this expansion. The expansion tank absorbs the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T & P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and ensures a longer system life. The tank has a polypropylene liner, butyl diaphragm and a field adjustable pre-charge. Refer to sample picture. 7-----UPGRADE-----The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 1. 8-----UPGRADE-----Washer hoses that are original black hose type are susceptible to sudden leaking. It is always recommended, but not required, that new wire braided permanent type hoses be installed like the ones shown. These can be purchased at major home and appliance centers and are relatively inexpensive. (Maintenance tip.). *****IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE HOUSE HAS ONE 40 GALLON WATER HEATER WHICH FEEDS HOT WATER TO ALL THREE APARTMENT UNITS. |
7.1 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
(common) 1-(flue piping) Water heater flue piping has some minor corrosion and is loose where it connects at the top of the tank. Recommend the installation of screws and periodic monitoring for any further deterioration. |
7.2 | WATER HEATER, PTV - PRESSURE
TEMPERATURE VALVE, PTV DRAIN PIPING (Visible condition. Checking presence
of a drain pan under unit if installed in attic or room over a living
area, and presence of a cold water inlet water cut-off valve.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.3 | FLUE PIPE AND VENTING
(Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and
clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to
exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.4 | COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY
(Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine
with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a
good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete
combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.5 | IF FLUE PIPE GOES TO FURNACE
FLUE, IS IT ON TOP (If both the water heater and furnace go into the same
chimney sleeve, then the furnace must be on the bottom because it has most
BTU's and makes the draft.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.6 | WAS GAS WATER HEATER AREA
CHECKED WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
7.7 | EXPOSED INTERIOR WATER PIPING
(Visible condition, looking for leaks, corrosion, sagging sections, and
valves where it enters house and stops at the point where it enters rooms
where it then will be described in each rooms description in this
report.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.8 | EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS, WATER
PRESSURE, WATER VOLUME, WATER DRAINS (Visible condition and operation.
Checking for presence of faucet backflow preventers.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.9 | CLOTHES WASHER WATER
CONNECTIONS, DRAIN PIPE, AND HOSES (Visible condition.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.10 | ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET
OR GAS CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION (Visible condition. Checking dryer exhaust
vent for exterior building termination and exterior cover with functional
flap.) Comments: INSPECTED |
SERVICE DROP TO
HOUSE: ABOVE GROUND USES A DRIP LOOP ATTACHES TO SIDING |
MAIN PANEL TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
MAIN PANEL LOCATION: EXTERIOR REAR WALL |
MAIN POWER
DISCONNECT: RATED 200 AMP IN MAIN PANEL CUTS ALL POWER |
MAIN PANEL CAPACITY: 200 AMP |
MAIN PANEL BREAKERS: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
WIRING METHODS: ORIGINAL KNOB AND TUBE OLDER CLOTH ROMEX ARMORED CABLE MODERN ROMEX |
15 AND 20 AMP CIRCUIT
TYPE: COPPER |
MAIN PANEL
MANUFACTURER: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL A CAPACITY: 125 AMP |
SUB-PANEL A TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL A
MANUFACTURER: ITE |
SUB-PANEL A LOCATION: LAUNDRY ROOM |
SUB-PANEL BREAKERS: CUTLER-HAMMER GENERAL ELECTRIC |
8.0 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4-The main and sub electrical panels appeared free of moisture discoloration, corrosion, and deterioration. This is good! Please see rest of electrical section for all items inspected. 5,6-There are two small formerly fused electrical panels in the laundry room under the sub-panel which are no longer in use. The middle one which still has fuse holders was tested with a multi-meter and found to contain no power. It is always recommended that any unused panels be removed and the openings properly covered. 7,8-The house is properly grounded with a ground rod under the main panel and to a copper water in the crawlspace. This is good! 9-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect lighting controlled by timers, and photo or motion type detectors and only tests a random sampling of the exterior lighting. 10-All readily accessible outlets were tested with a SureTest electrical tester. The electrical outlets were found to a mix of grounded and ungrounded with the majority being ungrounded. The majority of the original 2-prong outlets have been replaced with modern 3-prong outlets, however it is important to note that just because it has 3 prongs, does NOT mean that it is grounded. This should be expected for a house of this age where owner is NOT required to upgrade. The outlets have the proper voltage and are functional, however it is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes. It is recommended, but not required, based on the age of the house, that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets, which most likely will involve upgrading some of the wiring. -----UPGRADE-----There were no GFCI protected outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, or exterior. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. -----UPGRADE-----There were no AFCI protected bedroom outlets observed. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. Please read general GFCI and AFCI information below. GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). Remember that breakers are designed to protect only the wiring and GFCI's are designed to protect people against electrical shock. It is always recommended that kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink, bathroom outlets, unfinished basement or crawlspace areas, garage, exterior, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpool tubs, or any outlets residing on or by any body of water be upgraded to GFCI type outlets by a licensed electrical contractor. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. *****IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE HOUSE HAS ONLY ONE ELECTRIC METER. HOUSE UTILITIES BEING THE ELECTRIC, GAS, AND WATER BILLS ARE SHARED OR SPLIT THREE WAYS. (UNIT 1 @ 40%, UNIT 2 @ 40%, UNIT 3 @ 20%) |
8.1 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4,5,6,7-(original electrical wiring) There is evidence in the attic and crawlspace that the original house wiring is knob-and-tube. It appears that some of this original wiring is still being used throughout the house for house lighting and outlets. There were places where modern romex was found spliced into the knob-and-tube wiring. It is important to briefly note that knob-and-tube wiring and other types of older wiring is still being used in many old houses. It is generally considered that there is nothing wrong with this kind of wiring, and it shouldn't be condemned just because it is old, however if it is aged and deteriorated where it has not been properly maintained, can be considered a fire and safety hazard. Knob-and-tube wiring consists of two insulated wires run independently a few inches apart. One wire is a hot conductor and the other a neutral return. This is a two wire system with no ground wire. As long as the wire insulation is intact it is not recommended that knob-and-tube wiring be replaced unless grounded outlets are desired. Be aware that it is old wiring and still useable but has no grounds. Knob-and-tube wiring although obsolete, is considered safe. Any system modifications should be made by a licensed electrical contractor. In addition, some outlet receptacles are not grounded as previously mentioned, and as a precautionary measure, they should be used only with appliances that do not require grounding. If sensitive devices, like computers are to be used, it is recommended, but not required, that receptacles be upgraded with grounds which would require replacement of existing wiring by a licensed electrical contractor. Older style NM (non-metallic) cloth cable in existence since the early 1900's. NM cable consists of two or more conductors in a single non-metallic jacket. Two wire cable is called duplex cable. Duplex cable has been around since the early 1900's. Early duplex cable consists of two insulated conductors in a silver-colored jacket or outer cover. Modern NM cable is referred to as Romex and has been in use since 1965. Armored cable perhaps just as old as knob-and-tube wiring is a cable system sometimes called Greenfield or BX cable and terminates in a metal junction box. Armored cable was extremely popular in the early 1900's and consists of a black hot wire and a white neutral wire covered by a spiraled metal jacket or covering. Opinions on older wiring may vary among electrical contractors as safe or unsafe. With the determined presence of older wiring, it is always recommended that the entire house electrical system be further investigated for overall feasibility and safety by a licensed electrical contractor. 8-(breaker) The GFCI type breaker in the main panel located on the rear wall is not labeled and also does NOT test or reset. Recommend a licensed electrical contractor to make repairs which may include but are not limited to labeling after determination of purpose and installation of a new GFCI type breaker. It is always recommended that all electrical panel breakers be properly labeled. 9,10-(breaker) One breaker in the main panel and one beaker in the laundry room sub-panel have two attached wires. This is referred to as double-tapping, is usually not allowed and is considered a fire hazard by the manufacturer. The main panel has some additional openings for breakers, however the laundry room sub-panel is full. Repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to the installation of a new breaker in the main panel, and an additional small sub-panel within the laundry room. 11-(sub-panel) The cover over the breakers in the laundry room sub-panel does not fit properly. There are two noticeable gaps along the bottom two breakers which could be a safety issue for small children. Repair is recommended which may include but is not limited to removal of plasterboard directly under bottom of panel so cover will fit further in towards the breakers. |
8.2 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (unit
1)
1,2,3,4-Pictures of tested outlets. |
8.3 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (unit
2)
1,2,3,4-Pictures of tested outlets. The only grounded outlet tested was above the kitchen sink. |
8.4 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (unit
3)
1,2,3,4,5,6-Pictures of tested outlets. The kitchen has one 2-prong ungrounded outlet. The remaining outlets are 3-prong with a mix of grounded and ungrounded. |
8.5 | EXTERIOR LIGHTS, SWITCHES,
OUTLETS (Visible condition and operation) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.6 | SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE
(Visible condition of cable, splices, house connection, porcelain
insulators, mast, masthead or gooseneck, conduit and if limbs or vines are
in the way. Service is run aerially overhead or buried underground. The
home owner's responsibility starts after cable splice where aerial feed is
connected to the house, and for a buried feed at the meter.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
8.7 | METER BASE TO PANEL (Visible
condition of base, how its attached to house, all cables and connectors,
look for illegal wire taps running to another panel or device which could
severely overload the service utility drop and meter base, and does meter
base amp rating closely match the fuse or circuit breaker panel amp
rating.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.8 | PANELS, FUSE BOXES, AND
SUB-PANELS (Visible condition. Checking panels for proper circuit or fuse
labeling, all circuit breakers same brand name as panel, one main breaker
or disconnect that cuts all power to house. Check that all wires to
single-pole breakers are colored black and not white.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.9 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND
(Visible condition. A ground wire bleeds stray voltages to ground and
current should not flow continuously in this wire. A ground wire from the
neutral/grounding bus bar in main panel runs to a grounding electrode or
rod. There should also be a ground wire from the main panel
neutral/grounding bus bar to metal water pipes. Water pipes should be
voltage free. Check water pipes for presence of voltage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.10 | PANEL BONDING STRAP (Visible
condition. A bonding strap or panel bond, is required in every main panel
to connect the neutral/grounding bus bar to the panel frame so that the
metal panel can't shock you if a live wire touches it.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.11 | ARE PANEL FILLER PLATES IN
PLACE WITH NONE MISSING (Filler plates are little knockouts that are
removed from panel front if breakers are installed. If no breaker was
installed, this open spot is where someone could reach in and touch a hot
spot.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.12 | ARE LOCATIONS OF PANELS AND
SUB-PANELS READILY ACCESSIBLE (A countertop or workbench directly in front
of panel makes it not readily accessible. A shorter person won't be able
to reach and shut-off a breaker in an emergency.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.13 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH SERVICE ENTRY CABLE LUG IN MAIN PANEL (This is where the cable from
meter connects into panel. Other wires, called illegal taps, on these two
lugs are left without overcurrent protection. Don't confuse an illegal tap
with surge-protection wiring where two small wires feed into main lugs and
go to a small lightning-surge arrestor.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.14 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH BREAKER SCREW, NEUTRAL OR GROUND BUS SCREW, OR FUSE (Multiple wires
are a sign of an overloaded panel and are dangerous because the wires can
work loose from vibration and become a fire hazard. There is an exception
to the rule: Square D, type-QO, size 15, 20, 30 amp breakers are listed
for up to two 10 gauge wires.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.15 | ARE ALL WIRES TO EACH FUSE OR
CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZED PROPERLY (This occurs if undersize wire is used with
oversize breakers or fuses. This is critical so that whatever load is
connected to the circuit breaker will be properly protected.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
8.16 | ARE ALL WIRES ON 15 0R 20 AMP
CIRCUITS COPPER AND NOT SINGLE STRAND ALUMINUM (Aluminum wired homes built
from 1965 to 1972 have had numerous problems with electrical connections
to receptacles and switches.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.17 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY WATER
DAMAGE (The signs of moisture damage are brown iron stains and white
corrosion on breakers and hot tabs inside panel.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.18 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY
DETERIORATION (Visible condition looking for signs of arcing, burn marks,
blistering, or discoloration. If breaker wire connection has overheated,
usually because it became loose, there will be discolored or burned
insulation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.19 | ARE SUB-PANEL GROUNDS
ISOLATED FROM NEUTRALS (A sub-panels most common use is to provide a
secondary panel some distance from the main service panel. In any
sub-panel, grounds and neutrals must be kept separate from each
other.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.20 | ARE APPROPRIATE OUTLETS GFCI
PROTECTED (A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a safety device that
senses any shock hazard and interrupts the flow of electricity in the
circuit. Receptacles requiring GFCIs are bathrooms, kitchen countertops,
wet bar sinks, garages, pools, spa lights, and any outdoors below
6'6".) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.21 | WERE A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER
OF OUTLETS TESTED (Verify proper outlet operation with a Suretest tester
that tests for proper wiring, reversed polarity, voltage drop, ground
impedance, Ground-to-Neutral voltage, line voltage, high resistance
grounds, and false or bootleg grounds. The tester also verifies GFCI,
ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets. Comments: INSPECTED |
HEAT FOR: HOUSE ALL LEVELS |
LOCATION: CRAWLSPACE |
FUEL SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR 5 BURNER PORTS |
IGNITION SYSTEM: ELECTRONIC AUTO PILOT |
HEAT SYSTEM BRAND: DUCANE EXCEL COMFORT SYSTEMS TAPE DATED 06/2006 |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: 128 DEG |
DUCTWORK: METAL ROUND METAL RECTANGULAR UNINSULATED |
FILTER TYPE: DISPOSABLE SIZED 20X25 AT CRAWLSPACE UNIT |
9.0 | HEATING SYSTEM
(common)
1,2,3-The natural gas heating unit is functional and the flame characteristics are good as shown in picture, indicating proper combustion. The burner compartments and control areas appeared clean and all vent piping adequate. Heating unit is dated 1991, making it about 16 years old where it is nearing the end of its average life span. Annual heating system service by a licensed heating and air contractor is always recommended. (Maintenance tip.) 4-The vent air from the furnace was tested and found free of carbon monoxide after operating the furnace over a period of time. This is good! Visit this web link for a general idea on how long should the components and systems in your home last. <http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10382.shtml> Whenever gas is present, properly installed carbon monoxide detection is ALWAYS recommended, but not required, at each appliance. Carbon monoxide hovers closest to the ground where each detector should be installed no higher than midways up a wall and should be periodically tested and replaced if faulty. (safety tip.) ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the ductwork for the heating and cooling system. An initial move-in and periodic ductwork cleaning by a licensed contractor is always recommended, but not required. *****IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE HOUSE HAS ONE SOURCE OF HEAT, A CENTRAL GAS FURNACE LOCATED IN THE BASEMENT. THIS ONE FURNACE FEEDS DUCTWORK RAN TO ALL THREE APARTMENT UNITS. THE SOLE SYSTEM THERMOSTAT IS LOCATED IN THE KITCHEN OF UNIT 1. THIS MEANS FOR EXAMPLE THAT IF UNIT 3 TENANT WANTS ADDITIONAL HEAT THEN THEY MUST CONTACT UNIT 1 TO TURN THE THERMOSTAT UP. *****IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE TENANT IN UNIT 2 STATED THAT IT IS DIFFICULT TO OPERATE SMALL INDIVIDUAL ELECTRIC SPACE HEATERS BECAUSE ONLY ONE CAN BE OPERATED IN THE BUILDING AT ANY GIVEN TIME. THIS IS BECAUSE BREAKERS IN THE LAUNDRY ROOM SUB-PANEL WILL TRIP FROM OVERCURRENT MOST LIKELY FROM AGED OR OVERLOADED CIRCUITS. RECOMMEND AN ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR TO FURTHER INVESTIGATE WHICH MAY INCLUDE BUT IS NOT LIMITED TO THE INSTALLATION OF A NEW CIRCUIT TO EACH UNIT WHICH COULD BE USED SPECIFICALLY FOR SPACE HEATERS IF THEY ARE ALLOWED OR DESIRED TO BE USED. SINCE UNIT 1 CONTROLS THE ONE CENTRAL GAS FURNACE, ONE OPTION AVAILABLE FOR INDIVIDUAL APARTMENT UNIT CONTROL WOULD BE THE INSTALLATION OF A ZONE CONTROLLED HEATING SYSTEM WHICH WOULD ALLOW FOR A SEPARATE THERMOSTAT IN EACH UNIT. THIS HOWEVER MAY NOT BE COST EFFECTIVE, HOWEVER MERITS SOME CONSIDERATION. |
9.1 | HEATING SYSTEM
(common) 1-(ductwork) A section of ductwork in the front left side of the crawlspace has a split type opening where covering with a foil tape is recommended. |
9.2 | HEATING SYSTEM (unit
1)
1-(floor vent) Some of the floor vent registers are new, however one located above the vicinity of the water heater is severely corroded. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of anew floor vent register. |
9.3 | HEATING SYSTEM (unit
2)
1,2-(heat) Unit 2 tenant complained of inadequate heat when system is turned on by Unit 1. The unit has a total of three vent openings, in the living room, rear bedroom, and kitchen. It was uncovered that only the kitchen vent has a heated air supply. Further investigation by a licensed heating and air contractor is recommended. |
9.4 | INSTALLED HEATING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition and check presence of conditioned air source in all
rooms, furnace blower free of any excess noise or vibration, and return
air filter is present and clean.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.5 | FLUE PIPE AND VENTING
(Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and
clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to
exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.6 | COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY
(Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine
with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a
good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete
combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.7 | WAS HEAT EXCHANGER TEST
PROCEDURE DONE (This procedure ONLY applies to forced-air gas furnaces
that use a blower to distribute heat. Procedure: Check the flame with
blower off, then with blower on. If the main burner characteristics were
normal with the blower off, but change or the flame lifts from the burner
ports, the heat exchanger MAY be faulty.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.8 | WAS GAS FURNACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
9.9 | WAS A TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT
SUPPLY AND RETURN (Typical furnace operating temperatures are: NATURAL
GAS: 130-140 degrees, OIL/PROPANE: 125-135 degrees, ELECTRIC: 110-120
degrees, HEAT PUMP: 95-100 degrees.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.10 | DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS (Visible
condition, checking fans, pumps, ducts and piping, insulation, air
filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units and convectors)
Comments: INSPECTED |
9.11 | THERMOSTAT (Visible
condition, checking if, level on wall, loose, equipment turns on/off from
thermostat controls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
COOLING FOR: HOUSE |
COOLING INFO: WINDOW UNITS NO CENTRAL UNITS |
UNIT 1: 1 WHITE-WESTINGHOUSE 1 GOLDSTAR 1 AMANA |
UNIT 2: 1 MAYTAG 1 ELECTROLUX 1 ADMIRAL |
UNIT 3: 1 GENERAL ELECTRIC |
10.0 | COOLING SYSTEM
(common) Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION There are no central cooling systems where each unit has assorted brands of window type cooling units. |
10.1 | COOLING SYSTEM (unit
1) 1-Unit 1 has three window units, in the kitchen, front bedroom, and rear bedroom, all of which were inspected and found functional. The living room has a unit belonging to the tenant and was not inspected. |
10.2 | COOLING SYSTEM (unit
2) Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Unit 2 has three window units, in the kitchen, front bedroom, and rear bedroom, all of which were inspected and found functional. This is good! |
10.3 | COOLING SYSTEM (unit
3) Unit 3 has one window unit in the loft, which was inspected and found functional. This is good! |
10.4 | INSTALLED COOLING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition, checking condenser and evaporator units are free of
any excess noise and vibration, condenser unit free of overgrowth, coil
blockage, and sitting level on a slab.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.5 | OUTSIDE CONDENSER UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of compressor, coils, and blower fan. The
compressor compresses low-pressure cold Freon gas, turning it into high
pressure Freon gas that runs through the coils with the fan blowing across
them to dissipate its heat, and condense into a hot Freon liquid. Warm air
should be blowing when you walk by it outside.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.6 | INSIDE EVAPORATOR UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of a Freon metering device that is either
an expansion valve or capillary tube, coils, and blower fan. Hot Freon
liquid runs through the metering device, evaporates into cold,
low-pressure Freon gas, runs through the coils that allow the gas to
absorb heat and cool the house as the fan blows air through the coil and
out ducts) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.7 | CONDENSATION PAN AND LINES
(Visible condition, checking for leaks, rust or deterioration and where
the line terminates. The pan is where water extracted from the air by the
evaporator runs into. Some systems use a pump to extract water out of the
pan. Central air conditioning systems provide comfort cooling by lowering
air temperature and removing excess moisture.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.8 | WAS TEMPERATURE DROP
MEASUREMENT TAKEN FROM SUPPLY AND RETURN VENTS (A low drop could indicate
low Freon charge. A high drop could indicate a dirty coil, filter or
blower. There are other reasons why the temperature drop is out of range
such as thermostat calibration and humidity.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.9 | IS COOLING UNIT ADEQUATE FOR
SIZE OF HOUSE (The general rule of thumb is 1 ton for every 550 square
feet of living space.) Comments: INSPECTED |
LOCATION: UNIT 1 LIVING ROOM |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: BRICK AND MORTAR BROWN CERAMIC FLUE LINER |
FIREPLACE INFO: FIRE BRICK FIREBOX FIREBRICK FIREBOX BRICK HEARTH |
LOCATION: UNIT 2 FRONT BEDROOM |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: BRICK AND MORTAR BROWN CERAMIC FLUE LINER |
FIREPLACE INFO: FIREBRICK FIREBOX CERAMIC TILE HEARTH |
11.0 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY UNIT
1
1,2-The mortar was poked within the firebox and found to be soft in some areas. Further investigation and repairs by a licensed fireplace contractor is recommended if wood burning is desired. Repairs may include but are not limited to repointing of deteriorated areas of mortar and verification and cleaning of the flues. It appears based on the pictures taken within the bedroom firebox that the chimney flue cavities have brown ceramic flue liners. Aged fireplace and chimneys such as these are usually no longer recommended for wood burning, however are adequate for gas appliances. The living room firebox is large enough where a decorative gas log heater could be installed, however the upper bedroom firebox is much smaller where a stand-alone gas stove would be a better choice. IF THE INSTALLATION OF A GAS APPLIANCE IS DESIRED THEN A LICENSED FIREPLACE CONTRACTOR IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED TO PERFORM A FIREPLACE INSPECTION AND TO ALSO PERFORM THE INSTALLATION. Any future cracks in the brick or mortar can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. It is always recommended that this work be performed by a licensed chimney sweep or fireplace installation and repair contractor. (Maintenance tip.) |
11.1 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY UNIT
2
1,2,3,4-The mortar was poked within both fireboxes and found to be soft in some areas. Further investigation and repairs by a licensed fireplace contractor is recommended if wood burning is desired. Repairs may include but are not limited to repointing of deteriorated areas of mortar and verification and cleaning of the flues. It appears based on the pictures taken within the bedroom firebox that the chimney flue cavities have brown ceramic flue liners. Aged fireplace and chimneys such as these are usually no longer recommended for wood burning, however are adequate for gas appliances. The living room firebox is large enough where a decorative gas log heater could be installed, however the upper bedroom firebox is much smaller where a stand-alone gas stove would be a better choice. IF THE INSTALLATION OF A GAS APPLIANCE IS DESIRED THEN A LICENSED FIREPLACE CONTRACTOR IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED TO PERFORM A FIREPLACE INSPECTION AND TO ALSO PERFORM THE INSTALLATION. Any future cracks in the brick or mortar can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. It is always recommended that this work be performed by a licensed chimney sweep or fireplace installation and repair contractor. (Maintenance tip.) |
11.2 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
(common) Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) (chimney) ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
11.3 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY UNIT
3 Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Unit 3 does not have a fireplace. |
11.4 | MASONRY SOLID-FUEL BURNING
FIREPLACES (Visible condition. They are made from solid masonry, bricks,
stone, concrete, mortar and require a footer foundation. All walls exposed
to fire should be lined with firebrick or fire-resistive material.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.5 | HEARTH, MANTLE AND WALL
(Visible condition. A hearth is made of brick, concrete, tile, stone, or
other non-combustible material and must extend at least 16 inches in front
of fireplace opening and at least 8 inches on either side of
opening.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.6 | FIREPLACE FIREBOX (Visible
condition. Fireplace fires are caused by thin walls, combustible
materials, wood mantels, unsafe hearths, damaged dampers, improperly
sealed or cracked fireboxes and from a heavy creosote build-up in
flue.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.7 | DAMPER (Visible condition and
operation. When open the lid forms a barrier that prevents downdrafts and
deflects the air upward. When closed it is used to seal off the flue when
the fireplace is not in use.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
11.8 | DOES FIREPLACE CHIMNEY HAVE A
METAL OR CERAMIC FLUE LINER (Visible condition. Check for excess soot and
creosote along interior flue walls. Most fireplaces that are unlined were
built before the 1950's and are made from stone, block, and common brick,
not firebrick. Exterior of fireplace, chimney, flue liner, and firebox
should be free of visible creosote stains leaking out mortar joints, wood
or metal seams, indicating a broken flue liner or firebox.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.9 | WAS FIREPLACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
FOUNDATION
INFORMATION: SHORT RIGHT CRAWLSPACE SHORT REAR CRAWLSPACE SHORT LEFT CRAWLSPACE STAND-UP CENTER CRAWL STAND-UP FRONT CRAWL OR BASEMENT |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2X10 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS 4X10 WOOD CENTER BEAM PERPENDICULAR TO JOISTS |
FLOOR JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
FOUNDATION WALLS: BRICK AND MORTAR PIERS BRICK FILLER WALLS |
CRAWLSPACE FLOOR: DIRT NO PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER |
METHOD USED TO OBSERVE
CRAWLSPACE: WALK/STOOP/CRAWL |
CENTER PIERS: BRICK AND MORTAR 4X6 WOOD POSTS TEMPORAY JACK POSTS |
12.0 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5-Some basement and crawlspace wood members have a slight covering or coating of what may be a moisture discoloration. Possible causes of these discolorations and moisture reduction maintenance tips may include but are not limited to the items discussed below. (SOIL BANKING) It is always recommended that all soil against the exterior walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. (GUTTERS) Gutters are always recommended, but are not required. (VAPOR BARRIER) A plastic vapor barrier is always recommended to keep inherent ground water to a minimum. (PLUMBING LEAKS) Previous and present plumbing leaks from aged and corroded water and drain piping can raise the moisture content where repairs and appropriate upgrades are always recommended. (EXHAUST VENTS) All dryer or downdraft kitchen hoods should always exhaust to the exterior. (VENTILATION) Adequate ventilation is very important and is usually in the form of small vet openings in the walls where a cross-breeze can be established. Robust or additional ventilation is always welcomed, and may include but is not limited to the installation of small fans designed to fit in the existing crawlspace vents or larger fan(s) within the entry door(s). Fans help circulate the air and remove moisture to the exterior. (DEHUMIDIFIER) Crawlspace areas are normally damp from inherent ground moisture. Moisture can be reduced through the installation of a dehumidifier. (GROUND WATER) Sometimes inherent ground water is determined to be the issue where the contractor may recommend, the banked soil be removed, the walls coated, and a proper designed drainage system be installed along the exterior walls, and/or a trench or mote installed around the perimeter of the walls where all water drains to a centrally located sump pump, where these would be the more involved and costly approach. These types of moisture issues are sometimes difficult to diagnose where a system of trial and error sometimes must be undertaken. Usually the obvious and least costly approaches such as proper soil banking, downspout issues, full plastic vapor barriers, maintenance and repair of water and drain piping, ventilation, and the use of dehumidifiers are taken care of before proceeding. These responses are purely speculative because there are some unknowns and it was not raining at time of inspection. The actual wood members appear to be structurally adequate and are just lightly coated in some areas with a slight discoloration. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a crawlspace, especially ones where discolorations of any kind were observed which may cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and when all the heating and air ductwork is in the crawlspace where some of the crawlspace air can be recycled throughout the house interior, a licensed contractor is always recommended to further investigate which may include air sample and discoloration testing. *****DUCTWORK IS LOCATED WITHIN THE BASEMENT AND CRAWLSPACE. Installation of a vent system air cleaning system is always recommended, but not required, especially in a crawlspace or basement containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below. 1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation. 2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands. 3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE WOOD MEMBERS ARE FREE OF MAJOR AREAS OF DISCOLORATION AND THE DISCOLORED AREAS ARE STILL STRUCTURALLY ADEQUATE. SMALL AMOUNTS OF DISCOLORATIONS ARE COMMON WITHIN AN AGED BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE AND USUALLY ONLY CREATE CONCERNS FOR INDIVIDUALS PRONE TO ALLERGIES OR ASTHMA, HOWEVER STILL MERIT CONSIDERATION ALONG WITH PROPER MAINTENANCE AND THE CORRECTION OR REDUCTION OF ANY MOISTURE ISSUES. OVERALL SUMMATION: The basement and crawlspace floor is NOT covered with a plastic vapor barrier, gutters are NOT present, the dryer vent exhausts directly into the basement, and there is one small plumbing leak. Recommend all these issues be addressed along with the consideration of additional ventilation, possibly in the form of a couple vent fans, along with the installation of a dehumidifier. |
12.1 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-The basement and crawlspace floor is dirt. A full plastic vapor barrier is always recommended to help keep any inherent ground moisture to a minimum. (Maintenance tip.) |
12.2 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-The basement and crawlspace has numerous old stored items such as suitcases, clothes, and an old water heater. |
12.3 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3-(walls) The house foundation walls are composed of brick piers with brick filler walls between them. The brick piers are basically what supports the majority of the house load. The mortar between the pier bricks was poked and found to still be adequate. This is good! The majority of the mortar between the filler wall bricks is aged or deteriorated where it is soft or sand-like and can be easily poked or broke off. Some isolated areas of mortar, primarily along the interior side of the front wall are missing. The mortar appears adequate and in place along the exterior sides, however is still somewhat soft when poked. Further investigation and any determined repairs by a licensed foundation specialist and/or brick mason is recommended and may include but are not limited to the repointing of mortar and/or additional support piers. Deteriorated mortar joints are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that diverts water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for mortar joints is called repointing or tuckpointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut out and repacked with new mortar compound. *****In summation, the exterior foundation piers and filler walls are most likely overall adequate based on the fact that they are relatively level, free of major cracking, and the majority of the mortar even though soft in some areas is still in place. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT PROPER MORTAR JOINTS ARE ALWAYS RECOMMENDED. IN THIS CASE THIS WOULD INVOLVE THE REPAIR THROUGH REPOINTING OF MISSING AREAS WHERE ONE MUST DECIDE HOW MUCH ADEQUACY OR ROBUSTNESS IS REQUIRED OR DECIDED TO BE NEEDED. IS IT JUST ENOUGH TO HAVE THE STRUCTURE WHERE IT IS JUST ADEQUATE WHERE IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN OR IS ROBUSTNESS DESIRED WHERE ALL SOFT MORTAR WOULD NEED TO BE REPAIRED? DECISIONS SUCH AS THIS ARE BEYOND THE SCOPE OF THE INSPECTION WHERE IN CASES SUCH AS THIS WHERE THERE ARE AREAS OF AGED MORTAR, A LICENSED FOUNDATION SPECIALIST OR BRICK MASON IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED FOR FURTHER INVESTIGATION AND OPINIONS. |
12.4 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-(natural gas) The section of the corroded metal natural gas piping at the bottom of the basement stairs was tested and found free of leakage however consideration of replacement by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
12.5 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
(piers) Basement and crawlspace center piers consist of varying types with the original piers made of brick and mortar. Overall construction consists of three brick and mortar piers and two 4x6 wood piers down the center from front to rear under a solid wood 4x10 beam placed perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Several issues regarding the center piers are listed below. Further investigation and repairs by a licensed foundation contractor or specialist is always recommended. 1,2,3,4,5-The edges on one side of the rearmost brick and mortar pier supporting the end of the main 4x10 center beam has broken off where an additional pier similar to the ones installed under the laundry area (4x4 wood, 6x6 wood, or a steel pipe post, all on a poured concrete footer or pad) is recommended. An adequate pier placed in the right side crawlspace is relatively level and appears adequate. 6,7,8,9-A 4x4 support post has been placed in the middle of the basement between the left wall and the center piers. It however was placed directly under a single floor joist. The joist appears somewhat turned, possibly from load. placement of all piering under doubled up joists or under a beam placed perpendicular to the existing floor joists is always recommended. Refer to picture 9 for basic concept. 10,11-Two adjustable telescoping columns or jack posts were observed in the basement, one at the bottom of the stairs and another in the center. Telescopic adjustable columns are not approved in the United States for use a s a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. Recommend further investigation and repair by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs may include but are not limited to the installation of permanent steel pipe posts that are at least 3 inches in diameter. |
12.6 | COMMON, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
(electrical) Several small electrical issues were observed within the basement and crawlspace which are listed below. Repairs by a licensed electrical contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to placement of all wiring splices in proper junction boxes, removal of any unused or aged wiring along with any other repairs deemed necessary. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1-Wire splices under vicinity of Unit 1 bathroom. 2-Wire splices in the corner directly under Unit 1 rear bedroom. 3-Open ended wires within a small unused service disconnect box in the vicinity above the water heater. 4-A wall switch of unknown purpose in the middle of the basement along the ceiling. 5-The lighting would not turn on where the proper switch may not have been located or the bulbs maybe bad? 6-The ceramic ceiling light fixture has pulled loose from the junction box. |
12.7 | COMMON CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION
INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-(water leak) The crawlspace and basement wood members are darker discolored from aging, however still appear adequate. Some areas of floor decking and joists in the laundry room have been replaced. The wood members under Unit 1 bathroom have some areas of discoloration and deterioration most likely from shower overspill from not closing the doors or curtains properly and/or from previous and since repaired leaks. These areas were poked with the majority found to still be structurally adequate. The majority of the original metal water piping and cast iron and metal drain piping has been upgraded with CPVC, and PVC which was found free of leakage with the exception of a small drip type leak from one of the CPVC pipes going to the tub in Unit 1 where repair by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. |
12.8 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-(piping) A couple of the CPVC plastic water pipes are drooping in the middle of the basement where additional hangers are recommended. |
12.9 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-(dryer exhaust) The vinyl flex hose has pulled loose and now exhausts directly into the crawlspace. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to securing hose back in place. |
12.10 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION 1-A basement or crawlspace can be damp where the use of a dehumidifier(s) to help with air movement and moisture content are always recommended, but not required. Generally speaking winter air is dry where a device call a humidifier can be used to put moisture back in the air, while in the summer air is too damp where a device called a dehumidifier can be used to remove unwanted or excessive moisture from the air. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Air Conditioners Air conditioners in addition to cooling the air, drop the humidity by removing a significant amount of water from the air. During the hot air conditioning times of the summer, it is more economical and practical to NOT open the windows at night even if it cools outside slightly. Leave the house closed up and don't bring the humid air inside. If you do, during the day, the air conditioner will be working that much harder to remove the heat and moisture from the air that was introduced during the night. There is a significant amount of moisture not just in the air, but absorbed by the furniture, wood etc in the house that will need to be removed to lower the humidity level in the house again. For comfort, a humid room will have to be much cooler than a dry room to have the same degree of comfort feel. So, consider this when it cools off a bit outside, if you will be running the A/C again tomorrow and it is still humid outside, don't open the windows. What is a dehumidifier and how does it work? The basic mechanical function of a dehumidifier is the same as a refrigerator. Compression and expansion of a gas is used to lower the temperature of metal coils to freezing temperature. However, instead of the cooling action being directed into a closed box, a dehumidifier is designed to blow warm moist room air over these cold coils. The moisture in the room air condenses on the coils to become liquid water. The water then drips into a drip collection pan, or to a drain. The room air, now freed of much of its moisture, returns to the room slightly warmer than it was. Dehumidifiers are controlled by a device known as a humidistat. This is an adjustable rotary switch which detects moisture in the room's air. It automatically turns the dehumidifier on or off as it is needed, based on the setting you choose. If you wish, you can set the dehumidifier to the maximum setting for continuous operation. Why would I want to purchase one? If you store anything of value in your basement, or if you use your basement as living space, it is important to keep the moisture level low. Unlike the rest of your home, the parts of your foundation that are below ground level, or "grade", is constantly in contact with moisture from the earth outside. Though some homes have adequate vapor and water barriers installed outside their foundations, many older homes have none. This moisture can cause mildew growth and damage to furniture of all types, photos, carpets, and virtually anything except the dog. It is a sad fact that every year people unknowingly destroy their valuable possessions by not taking steps to lower the level of moisture in their basement's air. How big a dehumidifier should I buy? Good question, but the answer is unclear. There are arguments for both large and small dehumidifiers. Large ones remove moisture faster, so they operate for shorter periods of time. However, there is more electricity used per hour to run a larger dehumidifier. Since more electricity is used at "start-up" than during any other time in the cycle, some of the apparent cost benefits of large size are lost. Considering that larger units are also more expensive to purchase, there may be little or no benefit to buying an oversized unit for most people. Bigger can at times really be better! The advantages of size are most noticeable when dehumidifying a large area. A small dehumidifier may run continuously and still never lower the humidity to an acceptable level. A larger unit, by dehumidifying a larger amount of air per hour, can keep up with the demands of a large room. Do I need someone to install it? That depends. Since the condensed water drips from the coils it has to go somewhere. If your basement has only a small moisture problem and you don't mind carrying the drip pan outside or to a sink, just put the dehumidifier on the floor and plug it in. It will shut off automatically when the drip pan is full... hopefully. This is not the most fun way to live with a dehumidifier... the drip pans (especially on the larger units) hold a lot of water and can be quite heavy when full. The solution is to install your dehumidifier so that it is self-draining. If you have a sink or toilet in the basement, or even a lowly floor drain, place the dehumidifier on a table or a shelf and run a hose from the drip pan to the drain. If you do not have a drain you can still make your unit self-draining, but things get more complicated. Since dehumidifiers do not pump water upwards, you may need to install a sink pump. This is a special enclosed pump designed for non-sewage use to move waste water upwards to your plumbing drain pipes. It will work with sinks, washing machines, water softeners, and... yes, dehumidifiers. Another alternative is to put the dehumidifier on a table or shelf so that it can drip into a large container, such as a 5 gallon bucket on the floor. This will decrease your number of trips for sure. The only drawback is that the dehumidifier will have no way to know if the bucket is full, so it will continue to run even after the bucket is full and overflowing all over the new carpet! Should I use a dehumidifier year round? That depends on the temperature of your basement and your local climate. Dehumidifiers do not function well at lower temperatures, so under 65 degrees it is almost a waste of money to run them. Plus, as the air temperature drops, the risk of freezing the coils increases (read the next question for more on freeze-ups). If you heat your basement, the warm air will move moisture from the basement to the house above, keeping the humidity lower in the basement and slightly humidifying the rest of the house. In areas where the ground is frozen for most or all of the winter, the amount of moisture that will migrate through the basement floor and walls will drop dramatically in the winter, so the need for dehumidification decreases. However, if you live in a temperate area, and your basement is not heated, you may have to run the dehumidifier year round. Is there any maintenance to perform? You should check the coils at least seasonally and keep them clear of dust and dirt. If the unit has a removable front cover, there may be a foam filter inside that should also be cleaned. The purpose of this cleaning is two-fold. First, dust and dirt can insulate the coils from the room air, decreasing the efficiency of the dehumidifier. Secondly, this same dirt will get damp and possibly freeze. Freezing is the most damaging thing that can happen to your dehumidifier because it will run continuously but not dehumidify the air. Humidifier Information When the weather is cold, we close the windows and turn up the heat. This is bad news for our comfort and our health. Low humidity can cause dry skin, cracked lips, itchy eyes, sore throat, and sinus headaches. One thing that makes winter uncomfortable for humans, even inside a nice warm building, is low humidity. People need a certain level of humidity to be comfortable. In the winter, indoor humidity can be extremely low and the lack of humidity can dry out your skin and mucous membranes. Low humidity also makes the air feel colder than it actually is. Dry air can also dry out the wood in the walls and floors of our houses. As the drying wood shrinks, it can cause creaks in floors and cracks in drywall and plaster. This is why dehumidifiers are used in the summer and humidifiers are used in the winter. These are just some of the symptoms of living in air that is too dry. A humidifier can sometimes help to relieve these symptoms. *****.Air quality of the home is beyond the scope of the inspection. This information was provided as a courtesy and is not meant to endorse usage. Opinions on and the the use of dehumidifiers and humidifiers may vary. In the event of the presence of air which is "too damp" or "too dry" or upon any questions involving the home's air quality a licensed heating and air or air quality contractor is always recommended. |
12.11 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
of girders, piers, columns, supports, foundation walls, floor joists,
decking and wood members, exposed wiring and plumbing. Check that all wood
is free of visible contact with dirt, there is a vapor barrier covering
dirt floor, and crawlspace is free of visible water and debris and all
areas are accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
12.12 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
and operation of entry hatches and vents. Check for missing and damaged
vent screens that keep animals out of crawlspace.) Comments: INSPECTED |
12.13 | ARE ALL CRAWLSPACE AREAS DRY
AND NOT WET OR UNUSUALLY DAMP (Crawlspace is inherently damp even though
there are no problems with water seepage. It is a result of the capillary
rise of ground moisture which can be reduced by covering the ground with a
plastic vapor barrier and having adequate crawlspace ventilation)
Comments: INSPECTED |