ACE Home Inspections, LLCP.O. Box 1993 | |||
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ACE Home Inspections, LLC P.O. Box 1993 | |
Customer | |
Home |
This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.
This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.
WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING
WALLS
1.1 | WALKWAYS,
DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The water meter basin is located at the street beside the driveway entrance. The soil or ground around the recessed basin is low where the sides are partially visible where additional soil or landscaping completion is recommended. This is an aesthetic issue which does not effect overall functionality or operation. |
1.2 | WALKWAYS,
DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14-The house has been constructed on the side of a modest hill where all water drains down to the far right wooded area. There is a sunken area or trench along the front, rear, and right foundation walls, where the tops of the concrete footer are exposed. These low areas have caused water draining down from the left to settle against and seep through into the crawlspace based on the darker discolored areas of dampness and/or moisture observed on the interior walls and ground. Owner stated exact new owner landscaping desires are unknown where plans are to perform all needed landscaping at one time after discussing with new owner, so as to be able to minimize backhoe expenses. The soil directly against the left wall slopes gently down and away, however water from the left drains directly down and towards this wall where the installation of a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression, parallel with the wall, is highly recommended. Depressions such as this can be planted with grass and are simply just part of the yard and are barely noticeable, however play a key role in directing water away from the wall and off to the far sides. After landscaping has been completed, recommend monitoring during a storm and further investigation by a licensed landscaping contractor if any drainage issues such as sizeable collections should develop, especially near or against the foundation. Repairs or drainage enhancements at that time may include but are not limited to additional compacted soil in any low areas or a more profound wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion. |
PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS,
BANISTERS
2.0 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The bottom of the banisters along the porch steps have some wobble because the two bottom 4x4 wood posts have been attached only to the sides of the stringers. Present construction is adequate however may continue to loosen over time where a more robust type construction is always recommended, but is NOT required. Strengthening may include but is not limited to removal of the two bottom 4x4 wood posts and installation of two new 4x4 wood posts secured in concrete footers along with a small poured concrete slab bottom step or landing area. |
2.1 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The front porch and rear deck "Deck Band joists" are toed in with only nails and are NOT attached properly to the wall or band of home with 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. Even if determined not to be required in the jurisdiction where the house is constructed, a proper and ROBUST porch and deck attachment is always recommended for safety reasons. |
EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION,
GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
3.4 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The front and rear entry door deadbolt striker holes are NOT deep enough, preventing the deadbolt from fully becoming engaged. A deadbolt that is not fully engaged in the out position, poses a security issue and can sometimes be readily opened with a knife or screwdriver. It is recommended that the striker holes be made deeper by carefully using a small drill bit. (security issue) |
3.5 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Weatherstripping along the front and rear entry door frames is missing and is always recommended. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Entry door wood framing and outer trim boards have been covered with aluminum. This is good, however it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold where clear silicone caulking is recommended. |
3.7 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There are gaps around the piping from the exterior located air conditioner condenser unit where it pierces the right wall. Recommend filling gaps with clear silicone caulking or mortar. |
3.8 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There are gaps around the PVC drain pipe from the crawlspace located air conditioner evaporator coils where it pierces the rear wall. Recommend filling gaps with clear silicone caulking or mortar. |
3.9 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There is a small gap between the rear wall dryer vent cover and the siding where clear silicone caulking along the top is recommended. |
3.10 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The front entry door is difficult to close because the top side rubs or hits against the door frame. This appears to be from the hinges being loose where repair for a smoother closing is recommended. |
ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The hallway attic entry scuttle hole does not cete down flush in place because of two nails where nail removal is recommended. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The exhaust fan in each bathroom was found to be completely covered with insulation where they do NOT terminate properly to the exterior. Exhaust vents that terminate into the attic can cause excess moisture/humidity within the attic and possibly lead to moisture damaged ceiling plasterboard. A vinyl or metal flex hose can be ran from each fan to the closest gable or soffit vent. These kits are rather inexpensive and can be purchased at major home centers and are always recommended. |
KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
5.6 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The stove and oven unit has excessive wobble where proper leveling or balancing to floor is recommended. |
5.7 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The refrigerator has excessive wobble where proper leveling or balancing to floor is recommended. |
5.8 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The living room ceiling fan has noticeable wobble on high speed where proper alignment or balancing is recommended. |
5.9 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The electrical receptacle to the right of the kitchen sink and another on the right exterior wall within the master bedroom are loose where they move around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. recommend both be properly secured where movement is prohibited. |
PLUMBING (Main, Exterior, Water Heater, Washer,
Dryer)
6.6 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Both exterior hose bibs are missing a bacflow preventer. They are relatively inexoensive and can be purchase at major home centers. Even if determined not to be required in the jurisdiction where the house is constructed, they are always recommended for safety reasons. ADDITIONAL BACFLOW PREVENTER INFORMATION: 1-The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 2. |
6.7 | PLUMBING
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The water heater side mounted TPR valve does not have a 3/4 inch sized extension pipe ran to within 6 inches of the floor. Extension pipes are always recommended for all water haters, wherever they are located. (safety) ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. |
ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels,
Exterior)
7.5 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-All outlets were tested with a SureTest outlet tester and found to have proper voltage and grounding. GFCI protected outlets were observed in bathrooms, kitchen, and exterior outlets. This is good! (GFCI issue) The rear deck is GFCI protected through the left side hallway bathroom GFCI type outlet. The front porch outlets are GFCI protected through the master bathroom GFCI type outlet. This is functional, however is no longer an acceptable new construction method where all bathrooms outlets should have their own isolated GFCI protection, and all kitchen outlets within six feet of a sink basin should have their own isolated GFCI protection. Only exterior, garage and basement outlets are allowed to still be tied together with the same GFCI protection. This may not be required within the jurisdiction where the house was constructed, where builder may not be required to isolate, however is always recommended. (AFCI issue) Since this house was constructed after January 1, 2002 it is required by the National Electrical Code to have proper AFCI protected bedroom outlets. Normally each bedroom will have an AFCI type breaker in the electrical panel that has a green or blue reset button. No AFCI protection was observed at time of the inspection. These may not be required within the jurisdiction where the house was constructed, where builder may not be required to install, however are always recommended. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this issue may vary where contacting. There are hundreds of various jurisdictions throughout the state of Alabama. The knowing of each's specific rules or codes is beyond the scope of the inspection, where the contacting of the local jurisdiction is always recommended, and correcting if required. Remember that breakers are only designed to protect the wiring, while a GFCI and AFCI are designed to protect you! GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). All outlets within 6 feet of any water source, whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, swimming pools, unfinished basement or crawlspace, exterior, and garage outlets should always be properly GFCI protected. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The rear deck outlet receptacle and another to the left of the front entry door are missing an exterior weatherproof type cover. (safety) |
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
10.4 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The crawlspace vent opening covers are laying on the ground where installation is recommended to keep small animals from entering. |
Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property.
LANDSCAPING: PROPERTY SLOPES DOWN TO RIGHT ALL WATER DRAINS TO RIGHT |
RETAINING WALLS: NONE |
WALKWAYS AND
DRIVEWAYS: LONG GRAVEL DRIVEWAY |
1.0 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS 1-The yard has not been seeded or planted with sod because the overall landscaping plan has yet to be finalized. Refer to report section 1.2 for additional information. |
1.1 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS 1-The water meter basin is located at the street beside the driveway entrance. The soil or ground around the recessed basin is low where the sides are partially visible where additional soil or landscaping completion is recommended. This is an aesthetic issue which does not effect overall functionality or operation. |
1.2 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14-The house has been constructed on the side of a modest hill where all water drains down to the far right wooded area. There is a sunken area or trench along the front, rear, and right foundation walls, where the tops of the concrete footer are exposed. These low areas have caused water draining down from the left to settle against and seep through into the crawlspace based on the darker discolored areas of dampness and/or moisture observed on the interior walls and ground. Owner stated exact new owner landscaping desires are unknown where plans are to perform all needed landscaping at one time after discussing with new owner, so as to be able to minimize backhoe expenses. The soil directly against the left wall slopes gently down and away, however water from the left drains directly down and towards this wall where the installation of a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression, parallel with the wall, is highly recommended. Depressions such as this can be planted with grass and are simply just part of the yard and are barely noticeable, however play a key role in directing water away from the wall and off to the far sides. After landscaping has been completed, recommend monitoring during a storm and further investigation by a licensed landscaping contractor if any drainage issues such as sizeable collections should develop, especially near or against the foundation. Repairs or drainage enhancements at that time may include but are not limited to additional compacted soil in any low areas or a more profound wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion. |
1.3 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS (Visible condition. Checking for proper water
runoff away from the house, the landscape for presence of holes, sunken
areas, bald spots, eroding areas, and tripping hazards, trees and
vegetation clearances, and drainage weep holes or drains at the base of
retaining walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
FRONT PORCH: RECESSED UNDER HOUSE ROOF VINYL COVERED CEILING 6X6 WOOD ROOF SUPPORTS DECK STYLE CONSTRUCTION 6X6 WOOD DECK POSTS 2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS SPACED 16 INCHES APART |
REAR DECK: NO ROOF 2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS SPACED 16 INCHES APART 4X4 WOOD DEC POSTS |
STEPS AND STAIRWAYS: 2 SETS WOOD PORCH STEPS WOOD DECK STEPS |
RAILINGS AND
BANISTERS: WOOD BANISTERS WITH PICKETS |
2.0 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2,3-The bottom of the banisters along the porch steps have some wobble because the two bottom 4x4 wood posts have been attached only to the sides of the stringers. Present construction is adequate however may continue to loosen over time where a more robust type construction is always recommended, but is NOT required. Strengthening may include but is not limited to removal of the two bottom 4x4 wood posts and installation of two new 4x4 wood posts secured in concrete footers along with a small poured concrete slab bottom step or landing area. |
2.1 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2-The front porch and rear deck "Deck Band joists" are toed in with only nails and are NOT attached properly to the wall or band of home with 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. Even if determined not to be required in the jurisdiction where the house is constructed, a proper and ROBUST porch and deck attachment is always recommended for safety reasons. |
2.2 | PORCH (Visible condition of
roof, eaves, gutters, attic, ventilation, columns, foundation, floor,
coverings, storage closets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.3 | PORCH (Visible condition and
operation of doors, lights, switches, and outlets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.4 | DECK (Visible condition.
Checking roof, roof support structures, attic, ceilings, screens, gates,
doors, if deck support columns are resting on concrete footers, and if
deck is secured properly with lag bolts or a ledgerboard with metal joist
brackets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.5 | COMMON HALLWAYS AND CORRIDORS
(Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, cabinets,
lights, switches, outlets, heating, cooling.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.6 | STOOPS, STEPS, STAIRS,
BANISTERS, AND RAILINGS (Visible condition. Checking for potential
tripping hazards from variations in step riser heights, narrow tread
steps, unlevel steps or steep stairs. Checking for adequate
headroom.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.7 | SPACINGS BETWEEN ANY TWO
RAILING BANISTERS OF 4 TO 5 INCHES OR LESS (Safety issue for
children.) Comments: INSPECTED |
DOOR INFO: BOTH HAVE DEADBOLT NO STORM DOORS |
HOUSE WINDOWS: VINYL VINYL SASHES SINGLE-HUNG DOUBLE-PANE |
SIDING MATERIAL: VINYL LAP BOARDS |
SOFFIT/FASCIA
MATERIAL: VINYL AND ALUMINUM |
GUTTER MATERIAL: ALUMINUM |
FOUNDATION MATERIAL: CONCRETE BLOCK EXTERIOR MORTAR SWISHED |
VIEWED ROOF FROM: GROUND (binoculars) |
ROOF TYPE: MAIN IS GABLE TYPE FRONT PERPENDICULAR GABLE |
ROOF COVERING: FIBERGLASS ASPHALT SHINGLES |
LAYERS: ONE |
ROOF PENETRATIONS: 4 TOTAL PIERCE ROOF |
ESTIMATED ROOF AGE: NEW |
ROOF VENTILATION: GABLE VENTS SOFFIT VENTS 1 WIND TURBINE |
CHIMNEY(S): NONE |
SKY LIGHT (S): NONE |
HOUSE DIMENSIONS: 47FT WIDE X 30FT DEEP |
3.0 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION House siding is vinyl, soffit and fascia are covered with vinyl and aluminum, entry door framing is covered with aluminum all of which are relatively low maintenance. This is good! Any exposed exterior wood is subject to deterioration if not properly maintained. It is strongly recommended that all exterior wood be painted on a periodic basis. The whole point is to prevent moisture damage which leads to costly total replacement. The bottom six to twelve inches of wood door frames (not covered with aluminum) are notorious for rapid deterioration when not properly maintained. It is very important to at least once a year, and more if needed, to keep at least the bottom six to twelve inches caulked and painted. IT CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH THAT PERIODIC PAINTING OF ALL WOOD SURFACES IS A MUST!!! Whenever small cracks start to develop at the end of the boards, it is time to paint! (Maintenance tip.) |
3.1 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3,4-The roof covering and flashing appear adequate with no loose or missing areas. This is good! |
3.2 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Once landscaping is complete and grass is present, a splashblock under or vinyl extension to the bottom of all gutter downspouts is always recommended to help direct water away from the foundation walls. These are inexpensive and can be purchased at major home centers. (Maintenance tip.) |
3.3 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3,4,5,6-The concrete block foundation walls are relatively level and free of major cracking. There is one 4 foot vertical hairline wide crack located under the right side of the front entry door. This crack travels all the way through where it is also noticeable on the interior side within the crawlspace. There is no side-to-side differential where both sides are even and one side is NOT out further than the other, indicating there has been no shifting and this most likely was caused from normal settlement and should not pose an issue unless it continues to worsen with time. Periodic monitoring is recommended. |
3.4 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2-The front and rear entry door deadbolt striker holes are NOT deep enough, preventing the deadbolt from fully becoming engaged. A deadbolt that is not fully engaged in the out position, poses a security issue and can sometimes be readily opened with a knife or screwdriver. It is recommended that the striker holes be made deeper by carefully using a small drill bit. (security issue) |
3.5 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Weatherstripping along the front and rear entry door frames is missing and is always recommended. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1-Entry door wood framing and outer trim boards have been covered with aluminum. This is good, however it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold where clear silicone caulking is recommended. |
3.7 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-There are gaps around the piping from the exterior located air conditioner condenser unit where it pierces the right wall. Recommend filling gaps with clear silicone caulking or mortar. |
3.8 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-There are gaps around the PVC drain pipe from the crawlspace located air conditioner evaporator coils where it pierces the rear wall. Recommend filling gaps with clear silicone caulking or mortar. |
3.9 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-There is a small gap between the rear wall dryer vent cover and the siding where clear silicone caulking along the top is recommended. |
3.10 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The front entry door is difficult to close because the top side rubs or hits against the door frame. This appears to be from the hinges being loose where repair for a smoother closing is recommended. |
3.11 | WINDOWS, SHUTTERS AND AWNINGS
(Visible condition and checking for the presence and functionality of
window flashing and operation of windows and window locks.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.12 | ENTRY DOORS, STORM DOORS,
SECURITY DOORS, AND DOORBELL (Visible condition and operation, checking
hardware, locks, coverings, frame, trim, weatherstripping, presence of
deadbolts on all exterior doors, proper locking, opening, and closing of
sliding glass doors, and the presence of a security dead-pin in all
sliding glass doors.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.13 | FOUNDATION WALLS AND MORTAR
JOINTS (Visible condition, checking for cracked, crumbled, loose, missing,
eroded areas, or large gaps) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.14 | EXTERIOR WALL COVERINGS,
FLASHING,TRIM, AND CAULKING (Visible condition. A wall flashing is defined
as a material used around angles or junctions on exterior walls to prevent
water leakage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.15 | HOUSE FRAMING (Visible
condition, checking for any cracks developing outside of the house, cracks
between a chimney and the exterior wall or any cracks running outward at
an angle from the upper corners of windows and door frames.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.16 | OUTSIDE ACCESS TO HOUSE IS
RODENT PROOF Comments: INSPECTED |
3.17 | ROOF COVERING (Visible
condition. Checking roof penetrations such as, roof vents, ridge vents,
wind turbines, soffit vents, gable vents, chimneys, furnace flues, water
heater flues, plumbing vents, skylights and any other penetrations.
Checking flashings which are used to seal around roof penetrations and
intersections. Checking rain caps on chimneys and flues.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.18 | SOFFIT, FASCIA, EAVES,
GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS (Visible condition. Checking if gutters are provided
where necessary, including porches, flat roofs, and dormers. Checking
whether splasblocks are in place if underground piping is not used for
rain gutter drainage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
ROOF STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD RAFTERS PRESSED WOOD ROOF DECKING COLLAR-TIE BRACING BOARDS PURLIN BRACING BOARDS |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD JOISTS |
RAFTER SPACING: 24 INCHES |
JOIST SPACING: 24 INCHES |
INSULATION TYPE: FIBERGLASS |
INSULATION INCHES: 12 INCHES |
R- VALUE: R-30 |
ATTIC INFO: HIGH CLEARANCE ATTIC NO DECKING FOR STORAGE 1 SWITCHED LIGHT |
4.0 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11-The wood members throughout the attic appeared free of moisture discoloration and deterioration. The insulation under readily accessible roof penetrations was scooped away in order to inspect the plasterboard ceilings. Overall attic construction is adequate with 2x6 rafters, 2x6 ceiling joists, sufficient purlin and collar-tie bracing boards, and the majority of the rafters are properly aligned onto the ridge and valley boards. This is good! ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any leakage within the attic that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the attic inspection and only readily accessible areas are inspected and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. |
4.1 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-All necessary attic areas have insulation with an R-value or resistance to heat loss value of R-30. This is good! |
4.2 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-Overall attic ventilation is adequate where air travels up through lower soffit vents and out through 3 upper gable vents and a center wind turbine. Soffit vents appeared clear or open and foam baffles are used where needed to keep air flows around insulation. This is good! |
4.3 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION: Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire. Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer. Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number. The determination of proper trim types is beyond the scope of the inspection. Verification can sometimes be as simple as a phone call to the manufacturer. |
4.4 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The attic has NO floor decking for storage, however is high clearance where floor decking which is properly secured to the ceiling joists would be recommended if storage is desired. It should be noted that the ceiling joists are 2x6, and are spaced 24 inches apart which is adequate but not robust where only a light duty storage would be recommended. (Maintenance tip.) |
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-The hallway attic entry scuttle hole does not cete down flush in place because of two nails where nail removal is recommended. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-The exhaust fan in each bathroom was found to be completely covered with insulation where they do NOT terminate properly to the exterior. Exhaust vents that terminate into the attic can cause excess moisture/humidity within the attic and possibly lead to moisture damaged ceiling plasterboard. A vinyl or metal flex hose can be ran from each fan to the closest gable or soffit vent. These kits are rather inexpensive and can be purchased at major home centers and are always recommended. |
4.7 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (Visible
condition. Checking attic insulation, exposed wiring, lights and water
pipes. Checking to see that all attic areas are accessible, all exposed
sections of chimney in attic are free of soot and creosote leakage, that
soffit vents are not covered with insulation, and attic ventilation vent
screening which keeps animals out) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.8 | GAS FLUE AND CHIMNEY
FIRESTOPPING (Visible condition. Firestopping refers to size of the hole
made in the ceiling and roof so as to maintain the proper clearance from a
hot metal flue pipe or chimney brick.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
4.9 | DO ALL FLUES AND VENTS
PRESENT IN ATTIC TERMINATE TO THE EXTERIOR (Water heater flue, furnace
flue, metal chimney flue, plumbing vents, bathroom fan vents, range hood
vent, dryer vent, etc...) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.10 | RAFTERS, DECKING, JOISTS OR
TRUSSES (Visible condition. Check for rafters pulling away from ridge
board, rot, cracks, splits, cut, altered or missing supports.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.11 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE ROOF
LEAKS OR DETERIORATION (Flashing refers to materials, usually metal, that
join parts of the house to the roof. Common places where roof leaks occur
are flashings around chimneys, metal gas flues, plumbing vents, turbines,
dormers, valleys, or any other roof penetrations or intersections.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.12 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE
CONDENSATION OR MOISTURE DAMAGE DUE TO IMPROPER VENTILATION (Often what
appears to be a leak is in fact condensation, and a sign of inadequate
ventilation. Proper attic ventilation reduces heat in summer and prevents
condensation in winter. It allows air to carry off water vapor before it
can condense and cause moisture damage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.13 | INSTALLED MECHANICAL
VENTILATION SYSTEMS (Visible condition and operation of power ventilators
and fans) Comments: INSPECTED |
REFRIGERATOR: FRIGIDAIRE DATED 08/2007 |
MEASURED REFRIGERATOR
TEMP: 37 DEG |
RANGE/COOKTOP BRAND: FRIGIDAIRE |
RANGE/COOKTOP ENERGY: ELECTRIC |
OVEN: NORMAL UNDER COOKTOP |
OVEN ENERGY: ELECTRIC |
BUILT-IN MICROWAVE: FRIGIDAIRE DATED JUNE 2007 |
RANGE HOOD: PART OF MICROWAVE |
HOOD EXHAUST: RECYCLED EXHAUST |
DISHWASHER: FRIGIDAIRE |
DISPOSER: NONE |
TRASH COMPACTORS: NONE |
INTERIOR CEILING
MATERIALS: PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR WALL
MATERIALS: PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR FLOOR
MATERIALS: CARPET CERAMIC TILE |
BATHROOMS: 2 FULL |
BATHROOM INFO: 2 ONE-PIECE ACRYLIC TUBS WITH A SHOWER |
BATHROOM INFO: FORMICA COVERED WOOD VANITIES MASTER GLAZED WINDOW EXHAUST FANS |
KITCHEN SINK: DUAL BASIN STAINLESS SINK WINDOW OVER SINK |
KITCHEN INFO: EAT-IN KITCHEN HANGING LIGHT FIXTURE NO FORMAL DINING ROOM |
REFRIGERATOR OPENING
WIDTH: 39 INCHES |
REFRIGERATOR OPENING
HEIGHT: 72 INCHES |
OTHER INTERIOR INFO: 12.78FT HIGH LIVING ROOM LIVING ROOM STORAGE CLOSET |
5.0 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-Each bathroom and kitchen sink basin was filled in order to pressurize the piping to inspect for leakage. |
5.1 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The refrigerator ice-maker and door dispenser units are functional. This is good! |
5.2 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2-The stove and oven elements are functional. This is good! |
5.3 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The dishwasher was cycled and found functional and free of leakage. This is good! |
5.4 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The washer and dryer were cycled and found functional. This is good! |
5.5 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The closet and laundry pantry have no installed shelving. The bathroom mirrors were in-process of being installed at time of inspection. |
5.6 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The stove and oven unit has excessive wobble where proper leveling or balancing to floor is recommended. |
5.7 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The refrigerator has excessive wobble where proper leveling or balancing to floor is recommended. |
5.8 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION The living room ceiling fan has noticeable wobble on high speed where proper alignment or balancing is recommended. |
5.9 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2-The electrical receptacle to the right of the kitchen sink and another on the right exterior wall within the master bedroom are loose where they move around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. recommend both be properly secured where movement is prohibited. |
5.10 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC only tests a random sampling of house smoke alarms always recommends that ALL smoke alarms be tested and replaced if found defective before moving in. It is always recommended that a local fire department be contacted to determine where smoke alarms should be installed since each jurisdiction may have different standards. Smoke alarms in this house are present in each bedroom and the laundry room off the kitchen. |
5.11 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees. A home inspection is like a snap shot in time where component conditions are noted at the time of inspection. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for component conditions occurring after the time of the inspection. |
5.12 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends used carpets be properly cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and an air quality or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present, before closing. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not dismantle or open any non readily accessible areas such as air vents or ductwork and does not move objects or furniture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects of any kind such as any cracked tile or torn and soiled carpet under furniture. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and lists all conditions at the time of inspection, where the inspection is like a snapshot in time. For example a component proved to be in working order at time of inspection, could be malfunctioning soon after moving in at no fault of ACE Home Inspections, LLC. |
5.13 | KITCHEN (Visible condition of
ceiling, walls, cabinets, shelving, countertops, plumbing. Checking that
all outlets within six feet of sink have GFCI protection, and there are
separate water shut-off valves for faucet, dishwasher, and
ice-maker.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.14 | KITCHEN (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, lights,
switches, outlets, sink, faucet, spray nozzle and all appliances staying
with house: range, oven, microwave, vent hood, dishwasher, disposal,
refrigerator or any other appliances. Checking that sink and dishwasher
drain properly, and hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature
are adequate.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.15 | RANGE HOOD VENTING SYSTEM (If
range hood is nonvented type, is there a clean charcoal or aluminum filter
in place. A nonvented hood is for filtering odors and grease vapors and
will not remove heat or steam like a vented range hood. A non-vented range
hood is identified by louvers on the front of the hood and does not vent
to exterior as a vented hood does.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.16 | ARE FAUCETS FREE OF HAMMERING
AND VIBRATING NOISES WHEN TURNED ON/OFF RAPIDLY (This occurs when water
flowing in the pipe comes to an abrupt stop, introducing shock and
vibrations that can damage pipes or fittings. It is caused by improper
sized pipes and can be fixed with an air chamber or antiknock coil which
provides an air cushion to absorb shock.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.17 | DOES SINK DRAIN INTO A P-TRAP
UNDER THE SINK (A trap is needed to provide a water seal that blocks sewer
gases from seeping back into house. Some homes still have S-type traps
that do not always vent properly. If a sucking and gurgling noise occurs
after almost all the water has drained, the water seal has been lost. All
S-traps should be converted to P-traps.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.18 | DOES SINK HAVE AN AIR GAP TO
PREVENT BACK SIPHONAGE (Simply speaking, the air gap prevents the dirty
sink water from being sucked back into the clean water supply pipes
through the end of the faucet if the sink should overflow. There should be
a gap of at least 1 inch between the end of the faucet where the water
exits and the flood rim of the sink.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.19 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition of ceilings and walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.20 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, lights, switches,
outlets) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.21 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
of ceiling, walls, cabinets, countertops, and caulking.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.22 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, exhaust
fans, lights, switches, outlets, sinks, tubs, showers, and commodes.
Checking presence of cut-off valves for faucets and commodes, proper
draining of sinks, tubs, showers and commodes, use of P-traps and not old
S-traps, proper air-gap for sinks, tubs, and hand-held shower wands to
prevent back siphonage, faucets for improper hammering and vibrating
noises when turned on/off rapidly, adequacy of hot and cold water
pressure, volume, and temperature, exhaust fans for proper venting to
building exterior and outlet GFCI protection.) Comments: INSPECTED |
PLUMBING SUPPLY: WIRSBO 3/4 TUBING |
DISTRIBUTION: WIRSBO CLEAR PEX TUBING |
PLUMBING WASTE: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING |
WASTE SYSTEM: UNKNOWN |
WATER SOURCE: PUBLIC/COUNTY |
WATER HEATER
BRAND/DATE: AMERICAN DATED 31ST WEEK OF 2007 |
WATER HEATER
LOCATION: CRAWLSPACE |
WATER HEATER POWER
SOURCE: ELECTRIC |
CAPACITY: 38 GAL |
WATER FILTERS: NONE OBSERVED |
DRYER POWER SOURCE: 240 ELECTRIC |
WATER CUT-OFF: CRAWLSPACE AT STREET |
BATHROOM SINK
PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING WIRSBO TUBING |
KITCHEN SINK
PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING WIRSBO TUBING |
WASHER: FRIGIDAIRE CYCLED OKAY |
DRYER: FRIGIDAIRE CYCLED OKAY |
6.0 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-House water cut-offs are located at street and on crawlspace ceiling near the right side entry door. A pressure regulator also exists along the ceiling and can be used to adjust house water pressure. Water pressure appeared adequate and should not need to be adjusted. This is good! |
6.1 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1,2,3,4-This house utilizes Wirsbo AQUAPEX water tubing lines instead of rigid copper tubing pipes. Wirsbo AQUAPEX tubing is a cross-linked polyethylene which makes it extremely flexible, durable and able to withstand high temperatures and pressures. The AQUAPEX tubing and a PEX ring compress over the PROPEX fitting for a connection that is permanent, leakproof, and reliable. AQUAPEX tubing has been used around the world for over 25 years. Its unique properties give it many advantages over rigid metal and other plastic plumbing systems. AQUAPEX is corrosion resistant, unlike copper and it is more freeze resistant. It is also flexible, thus eliminating many of the joints that used in rigid copper or metal systems. According to the manufacturer, it is rare that Wirsbo tubing will burst as traditional copper piping does when temperatures get below freezing. It is normally good down to 0 degrees and should not burst even though the water in the line freezes, however the concern is NOT about bursting pipes, but water service. RAUPEX recommends that potable or drinking water piping not be placed in areas where temperatures get below 40 degrees because if the water freezes in the tubing, then water flow is gone and nothing will come out of the faucets. It is always recommended, but NOT required, that all Wirsbo water tubing be covered with insulation. (Maintenance tip.) It appears that all Wirsbo water piping in this house is located throughout the crawlspace and not within the attic. If within the attic then it would be covered with insulation, however since it is all within the crawlspace, and not covered with insulation, there could be rare instances when freezing or water flow restriction could occur? ACE Home Inspections, LLC lists this information as a courtesy and does not endorse any type of water piping, with the only intent being to give additional information which was obtained from the product manufacturer. |
6.2 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The electric water heater is functional. Tank size, however is only 38 gallon, which may be adequate, however if a robust or a prolonged amount of hot water will be required then a larger tank may be desired. Standard Water Heater Sizing Number of Bathrooms 1 to 1.5 / 2 to 2.5 / 3 to 3.5 Number of Bedrooms 1 2 3 / 2 3 4 5 / 3 4 5 6 Nominal Tank Size 20 30 40 / 50 50 50 66 / 50 66 66 80 *****Based on above chart this 2 bathroom, 3 bedroom home would require a 50 gallon tank. |
6.3 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1-----UPGRADE-----Washer hoses that are original black hose type are susceptible to sudden leaking. It is always recommended, but not required, that new wire braided permanent type hoses be installed like the ones shown. These can be purchased at major home and appliance centers and are relatively inexpensive. (Maintenance tip.) Present hoses in this house are black rubber where replacement with robust wire braided hoses is recommended, but is NOT required. |
6.4 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The two hose bibs have been made more rigid and less susceptible to damage through the installation of a small section of copper tubing through the foundation walls, as shown. This is good! |
6.5 | PLUMBING SYSTEM There was no potable water expansion tank observed which are always recommended but are NOT required. Water piping is Wirsbo plastic tubing which is less susceptible to damage from jumping from sudden bursts of water pressure, however a water expansion tank can only make the entire system more robust which is it is alwys recommended, even though it is not required. (Maintenance tip.) ADDITIONAL EXPANSION TANK INFORMATION: A potable water expansion tank is always recommended, but not required between the cold water line and the water pressure reducing valve. It is designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands and in a domestic hot water system the system may be closed when isolated by a pressure reducing valve. Provisions should be made for this expansion. The expansion tank absorbs the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T & P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and ensures a longer system life. The tank has a polypropylene liner, butyl diaphragm and a field adjustable pre-charge. Refer to sample picture. |
6.6 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1,2-Both exterior hose bibs are missing a bacflow preventer. They are relatively inexoensive and can be purchase at major home centers. Even if determined not to be required in the jurisdiction where the house is constructed, they are always recommended for safety reasons. ADDITIONAL BACFLOW PREVENTER INFORMATION: 1-The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 2. |
6.7 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The water heater side mounted TPR valve does not have a 3/4 inch sized extension pipe ran to within 6 inches of the floor. Extension pipes are always recommended for all water haters, wherever they are located. (safety) ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. |
6.8 | WATER HEATER, PTV - PRESSURE
TEMPERATURE VALVE, PTV DRAIN PIPING (Visible condition. Checking presence
of a drain pan under unit if installed in attic or room over a living
area, and presence of a cold water inlet water cut-off valve.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
6.9 | ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
EXTERIOR TANK WIRING AND ELEMENT COVERS (Visible condition.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
6.10 | EXPOSED INTERIOR WATER PIPING
(Visible condition, looking for leaks, corrosion, sagging sections, and
valves where it enters house and stops at the point where it enters rooms
where it then will be described in each rooms description in this
report.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.11 | EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS, WATER
PRESSURE, WATER VOLUME, WATER DRAINS (Visible condition and operation.
Checking for presence of faucet backflow preventers.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.12 | CLOTHES WASHER WATER
CONNECTIONS, DRAIN PIPE, AND HOSES (Visible condition.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.13 | ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET
OR GAS CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION (Visible condition. Checking dryer exhaust
vent for exterior building termination and exterior cover with functional
flap.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.14 | DRAINAGE SUMPS, SUMP PUMPS,
AND RELATED PIPING (Visible condition and operation, checking any
switches, valves, piping, and for any debris. Sump pumps are used to
remove ground water and/or surface water from the house.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
SERVICE DROP TO
HOUSE: ABOVE GROUND USES A DRIP LOOP ATTACHES TO A MAST ATTACHES TO SIDING |
MAIN PANEL TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
WIRING METHODS: ROMEX |
15 AND 20 AMP CIRCUIT
TYPE: COPPER |
MAIN HOUSE POWER
DISCONNECT: RATED 200 AMP IN MAIN PANEL CUTS ALL POWER |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
CAPACITY: 200 AMP |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
LOCATION: LAUNDRY ROOM |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
MANUFACTURER: SQUARE D |
HOUSE BREAKERS: SQUARE D |
7.0 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2-The main electrical panel appeared free of discoloration, corrosion, and deterioration. This is good! Please see rest of electrical section for all items inspected. |
7.1 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect lighting controlled by timers, and photo or motion type detectors and only tests a random sampling of the exterior lighting. |
7.2 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The electrical system is grounded to aground water. This is good! The water piping is Wirsbo plastic tubing which does not require grounding. |
7.3 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The 240 volt dryer receptacle appears adequate and is functional. This is good! |
7.4 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The service entry cable appears adequate, however travels through the tree limbs where periodic trimming maintenance is recommended. (Maintenance tip.) |
7.5 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3-All outlets were tested with a SureTest outlet tester and found to have proper voltage and grounding. GFCI protected outlets were observed in bathrooms, kitchen, and exterior outlets. This is good! (GFCI issue) The rear deck is GFCI protected through the left side hallway bathroom GFCI type outlet. The front porch outlets are GFCI protected through the master bathroom GFCI type outlet. This is functional, however is no longer an acceptable new construction method where all bathrooms outlets should have their own isolated GFCI protection, and all kitchen outlets within six feet of a sink basin should have their own isolated GFCI protection. Only exterior, garage and basement outlets are allowed to still be tied together with the same GFCI protection. This may not be required within the jurisdiction where the house was constructed, where builder may not be required to isolate, however is always recommended. (AFCI issue) Since this house was constructed after January 1, 2002 it is required by the National Electrical Code to have proper AFCI protected bedroom outlets. Normally each bedroom will have an AFCI type breaker in the electrical panel that has a green or blue reset button. No AFCI protection was observed at time of the inspection. These may not be required within the jurisdiction where the house was constructed, where builder may not be required to install, however are always recommended. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this issue may vary where contacting. There are hundreds of various jurisdictions throughout the state of Alabama. The knowing of each's specific rules or codes is beyond the scope of the inspection, where the contacting of the local jurisdiction is always recommended, and correcting if required. Remember that breakers are only designed to protect the wiring, while a GFCI and AFCI are designed to protect you! GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). All outlets within 6 feet of any water source, whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, swimming pools, unfinished basement or crawlspace, exterior, and garage outlets should always be properly GFCI protected. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1-The rear deck outlet receptacle and another to the left of the front entry door are missing an exterior weatherproof type cover. (safety) |
7.7 | EXTERIOR LIGHTS, SWITCHES,
OUTLETS (Visible condition and operation) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.8 | SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE
(Visible condition of cable, splices, house connection, porcelain
insulators, mast, masthead or gooseneck, conduit and if limbs or vines are
in the way. Service is run aerially overhead or buried underground. The
home owner's responsibility starts after cable splice where aerial feed is
connected to the house, and for a buried feed at the meter.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.9 | METER BASE TO PANEL (Visible
condition of base, how its attached to house, all cables and connectors,
look for illegal wire taps running to another panel or device which could
severely overload the service utility drop and meter base, and does meter
base amp rating closely match the fuse or circuit breaker panel amp
rating.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.10 | PANELS, FUSE BOXES, AND
SUB-PANELS (Visible condition. Checking panels for proper circuit or fuse
labeling, all circuit breakers same brand name as panel, one main breaker
or disconnect that cuts all power to house. Check that all wires to
single-pole breakers are colored black and not white.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.11 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND
(Visible condition. A ground wire bleeds stray voltages to ground and
current should not flow continuously in this wire. A ground wire from the
neutral/grounding bus bar in main panel runs to a grounding electrode or
rod. There should also be a ground wire from the main panel
neutral/grounding bus bar to metal water pipes. Water pipes should be
voltage free. Check water pipes for presence of voltage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.12 | PANEL BONDING STRAP (Visible
condition. A bonding strap or panel bond, is required in every main panel
to connect the neutral/grounding bus bar to the panel frame so that the
metal panel can't shock you if a live wire touches it.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.13 | ARE PANEL FILLER PLATES IN
PLACE WITH NONE MISSING (Filler plates are little knockouts that are
removed from panel front if breakers are installed. If no breaker was
installed, this open spot is where someone could reach in and touch a hot
spot.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.14 | ARE LOCATIONS OF PANELS AND
SUB-PANELS READILY ACCESSIBLE (A countertop or workbench directly in front
of panel makes it not readily accessible. A shorter person won't be able
to reach and shut-off a breaker in an emergency.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.15 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH SERVICE ENTRY CABLE LUG IN MAIN PANEL (This is where the cable from
meter connects into panel. Other wires, called illegal taps, on these two
lugs are left without overcurrent protection. Don't confuse an illegal tap
with surge-protection wiring where two small wires feed into main lugs and
go to a small lightning-surge arrestor.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.16 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH BREAKER SCREW, NEUTRAL OR GROUND BUS SCREW, OR FUSE (Multiple wires
are a sign of an overloaded panel and are dangerous because the wires can
work loose from vibration and become a fire hazard. There is an exception
to the rule: Square D, type-QO, size 15, 20, 30 amp breakers are listed
for up to two 10 gauge wires.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.17 | ARE ALL WIRES TO EACH FUSE OR
CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZED PROPERLY (This occurs if undersize wire is used with
oversize breakers or fuses. This is critical so that whatever load is
connected to the circuit breaker will be properly protected.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.18 | ARE ALL WIRES ON 15 0R 20 AMP
CIRCUITS COPPER AND NOT SINGLE STRAND ALUMINUM (Aluminum wired homes built
from 1965 to 1972 have had numerous problems with electrical connections
to receptacles and switches.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.19 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY WATER
DAMAGE (The signs of moisture damage are brown iron stains and white
corrosion on breakers and hot tabs inside panel.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.20 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY
DETERIORATION (Visible condition looking for signs of arcing, burn marks,
blistering, or discoloration. If breaker wire connection has overheated,
usually because it became loose, there will be discolored or burned
insulation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.21 | ARE SUB-PANEL GROUNDS
ISOLATED FROM NEUTRALS (A sub-panels most common use is to provide a
secondary panel some distance from the main service panel. In any
sub-panel, grounds and neutrals must be kept separate from each
other.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
7.22 | ARE APPROPRIATE OUTLETS GFCI
PROTECTED (A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a safety device that
senses any shock hazard and interrupts the flow of electricity in the
circuit. Receptacles requiring GFCIs are bathrooms, kitchen countertops,
wet bar sinks, garages, pools, spa lights, and any outdoors below
6'6".) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.23 | WERE A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER
OF OUTLETS TESTED (Verify proper outlet operation with a Suretest tester
that tests for proper wiring, reversed polarity, voltage drop, ground
impedance, Ground-to-Neutral voltage, line voltage, high resistance
grounds, and false or bootleg grounds. The tester also verifies GFCI,
ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets. Comments: INSPECTED |
HEAT FOR: HOUSE |
LOCATION: CRAWLSPACE |
FUEL SOURCE: ELECTRIC |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR HEAT PUMP |
BRAND: RHEEM CLASSIC |
MANUFACTURED: DATED 09/2007 |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: NO HEAT CHECK - ABOVE 65 OUTSIDE NOT MEASURED |
DUCTWORK: INSULATED ROUND |
FILTER: 20X30 25X25 LIVING ROOM |
EMERGENCY HEAT PACK: ELECTRIC COILS |
EMERGENCY HEAT
MEASURED: 91 DEG |
8.0 | HEATING SYSTEM ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the ductwork for the heating and cooling system. A periodic ductwork cleaning by a licensed contractor is always recommended, but not required. 1-All heating and cooling system ductwork is located throughout the crawlspace. The flexible insulated round type ductwork sections are all connected and secured. This is good! |
8.1 | HEATING SYSTEM 1-The heat side of heat pump located in the crawlspace could not be operated since it was greater than 65 degrees where damage could result to system components after running the air conditioner. Annual heating system service is always recommended by a licensed heating and air contractor. |
8.2 | HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The system consists of a heat pump which are usually only effective down to around 35 degrees. At temperatures below 35 degrees it may become necessary to use the electric coil emergency back-up heating system. This must be turned on manually from the thermostat. The electric coil emergency heat, which is separate from the heat pump was tested and found adequate. |
8.3 | CONVENTIONAL HEAT PUMP
(Visible condition and operation. It is an air conditioner that contains a
"reversing" valve to switch between "air conditioner" and "heater" by
changing the direction of Freon flow. Simply, the warm air blowing out of
the outside unit, now blows out of the inside unit to heat the
home.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.4 | WAS CONVENTIONAL HEAT PUMP
CYCLED ONLY IN MODE IT FOUND IN (This is important to prevent possible
compressor damage. If found in the cooling mode, do not run the heat mode.
If found in the heat mode, do not run the cooling mode.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.5 | ELECTRIC FURNACE (Visible
condition and operation. Heat produced by electrical resistance serves as
the main heating source or as auxiliary heat for heat pumps. The electric
furnace does not have a heat exchanger like a gas furnace so there is not
a problem with flue gases. The heat is supplied by a series of coils. Each
coil has a thermal fuse and temperature limit switch.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.6 | INSTALLED HEATING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition and check presence of conditioned air source in all
rooms, furnace blower free of any excess noise or vibration, and return
air filter is present and clean.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.7 | WAS A TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT
SUPPLY AND RETURN (Typical furnace operating temperatures are: NATURAL
GAS: 130-140 degrees, OIL/PROPANE: 125-135 degrees, ELECTRIC: 110-120
degrees, HEAT PUMP: 95-100 degrees.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.8 | DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS (Visible
condition, checking fans, pumps, exterior components of ducts and piping,
insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units and
convectors) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.9 | THERMOSTAT (Visible
condition, checking if, level on wall, loose, equipment turns on/off from
thermostat controls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
COOLING FOR: HOUSE |
COOLING SYSTEM TYPE: CENTRAL |
MEASURED TEMP AT
SUPPLY: 50 DEG |
MEASURED TEMP AT
RETURN: 70 DEG |
CENTRAL AIR INSIDE
UNIT: RHEEM CLASSIC DATED 09/2007 3 TON EVAPORATOR COIL |
CENTRAL AIR OUTSIDE
UNIT: WEATHERKING DATED 08/2007 3 TON CONDENSER COIL |
9.0 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The conventional heat pump system located in the crawlspace was cycled only in cooling mode. Heating mode was not inspected. (This is important to prevent possible compressor damage. If found in the cooling mode, do not run the heat mode. If found in the heat mode, do not run the cooling mode.) Only cooling mode was inspected because outside temperature was above 65 degrees. |
9.1 | COOLING SYSTEM
1,2-The exterior located condenser coil cooling unit is level on a proper base. This is good! The difference between the measured supply temperature and measured return temperature was 20 degrees which is within the normal 14 to 22 degree range. This is good! |
9.2 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The house has one central cooling system which are sometimes referred to as a "split system" where each has an exterior condenser coil unit and an interior evaporator coil unit. |
9.3 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The cooling system is rated at 3 tons and the measured house square footage is about 1410. Using 550 square foot per ton, the 3 tons would be adequate to cool about 1650 square feet where the cooling system is properly sized and should suffice. This is good! GENERAL COOLING UNIT SIZING INFORMATION: The most widely used or generally accepted rule of thumb states 1 ton for every 550 square foot of living space. This design method is based on the floor area of the house. Of all the design methods, only the "square foot method" is at all reasonable. However opinions on a square footage value varies among licensed heating and air contractors where it is can range from 500 to 700 or even 1000 square foot for well-designed and quality-built homes. Rules of thumb are based largely on experience and possibly from poorly insulated and leaky houses of the past and can lead to excess system capacity and higher costs for the homeowner. Opinions by licensed heating and air contractors on this sizing issue may vary where some may say a half ton overall difference one way or the other is acceptable? |
9.4 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The SEER rating of this home's cooling system is 13. Refer to additional information listed below. ADDITIONAL SEER INFORMATION: US Government SEER Standards Today, it is rare to see systems rated below SEER 9 in the United States because aging, existing units are being replaced with new, higher efficiency units. The United States now requires that residential systems manufactured after 2005 have a minimum SEER rating of 13, although window units are exempt from this law so their SEERs are still around 10.[3] Substantial energy savings can be obtained from more efficient systems. For example by upgrading from SEER 9 to SEER 13, the power consumption is reduced by 30% (equal to 1 - 9/13). It is claimed that this can result in an energy savings valued at up to US$300 per year depending on the usage rate and the cost of electricity. With existing units that are still functional and when the time value of money is considered, most often retaining existing units rather than proactively replacing them is the most cost effective. Maintenance should be performed regularly to keep their efficiencies as high as possible. But when either replacing equipment, or specifying new installations, a variety of SEERs are available. For most applications, the minimum or near-minimum SEER units are most cost effective, but the longer the cooling seasons, the higher the electricity costs, and the longer the purchasers will own the systems, incrementally higher SEER units are justified. Residential split-system ACs of SEER 18 or more are now available, but at substantial cost premiums over the standard SEER 13 units. |
9.5 | COOLING SYSTEM 1-All interior attic evaporator coil units have condensation water that drips down through a primary PVC pipe that runs directly out of the bottom of the coils to the exterior. There is also an emergency drain pan under each coil unit located within and attic or an interior living space, which is there to prevent any leakage from above from getting onto the house ceilings or floors. This emergency pan is supposed to have both or at least one of the following means of overflow protection. A PVC pipe out of the side of the pan to the exterior which allows any water to drain away and/or a float switch to cut power to the unit if a high water level is obtained in the pan. It is always better to have both forms of protection, however only one or the other is required. These are are considered a back-up leak prevention system. *****This houses's unit is located within a crawlspace where back-up prevention enhancements are NOT required, however always recommended. This system has only a primary PVC pipe which gravity feeds to the exterior through the rear wall. It is always considered important that crawlspace areas be kept as dry as possible which in this case would involve the installation of an emergency drain pan with a float switch under the unit. The float switch would turn the system off if the pan should reach a high water level. (Maintenance tip.) |
9.6 | INSTALLED COOLING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition, checking condenser and evaporator units are free of
any excess noise and vibration, condenser unit free of overgrowth, coil
blockage, and sitting level on a slab.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.7 | OUTSIDE CONDENSER UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of compressor, coils, and blower fan. The
compressor compresses low-pressure cold Freon gas, turning it into high
pressure Freon gas that runs through the coils with the fan blowing across
them to dissipate its heat, and condense into a hot Freon liquid. Warm air
should be blowing when you walk by it outside.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.8 | INSIDE EVAPORATOR UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of a Freon metering device that is either
an expansion valve or capillary tube, coils, and blower fan. Hot Freon
liquid runs through the metering device, evaporates into cold,
low-pressure Freon gas, runs through the coils that allow the gas to
absorb heat and cool the house as the fan blows air through the coil and
out ducts) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.9 | CONDENSATION PAN AND LINES
(Visible condition, checking for leaks, rust or deterioration and where
the line terminates. The pan is where water extracted from the air by the
evaporator runs into. Some systems use a pump to extract water out of the
pan. Central air conditioning systems provide comfort cooling by lowering
air temperature and removing excess moisture.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.10 | WAS TEMPERATURE DROP
MEASUREMENT TAKEN FROM SUPPLY AND RETURN VENTS (A low drop could indicate
low Freon charge. A high drop could indicate a dirty coil, filter or
blower. There are other reasons why the temperature drop is out of range
such as thermostat calibration and humidity.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.11 | IS COOLING UNIT ADEQUATE FOR
SIZE OF HOUSE (The general rule of thumb is 1 ton for every 550 square
feet of living space.) Comments: INSPECTED |
FOUNDATION
INFORMATION: FULL CRAWLSPACE |
EXTERIOR WALL
STRUCTURE: FULL CONCRETE BLOCK WALLS |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS PRESSED WOOD FLOOR DECKING |
FLOOR JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
CENTER PIER
STRUCTURE: CONCRETE BLOCK 2 ROWS OF 5 |
METHOD USED TO OBSERVE
CRAWLSPACE: LEFT SIDE CRAWL RIGHT SIDE STOOP |
CRAWLSPACE FLOOR: DIRT FULL PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER |
CRAWLSPACE INFO: WATER HEATER HEAT PUMP UNIT DUCTWORK |
10.0 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-The concrete block center piers are all doubled and relatively level and free of cracking and deterioration. Doubling is normally required on crawlspace heights greater than 32 inches. This is good! . Overall crawlspace construction is adequate and ROBUST with full concrete block walls on solid poured concrete footers, two separate center rows of five doubled up concrete block piers under doubled up 2x10 wood floor joists, and 2x8 wood floor joists spaced 16 inches apart. this is good! 3-Crawlspace joists appear to all be No. 2 grade as shown. This is good! GRADE 2 VS. GRADE 3 LUMBER: Dimension lumber grade No.3 assigned design values, according to the Southern Pine Council, meet a wide range of design requirements. Recommended for general construction purposes where appearance is not a controlling factor. Many pieces included in this grade would qualify as No.2 except for a single limiting characteristic. Grade No. 3 dimension lumber has more load limiting characteristics, such as knots and pitches, thus creating smaller maximum span lengths. Grade No. 2 is always recommended, but is not required. |
10.1 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The crawlspace wood members appear adequate and free of discoloration and deterioration of the kind associated with moisture, and water and drain piping was free of leakage after operating the fixtures. This is good! |
10.2 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6-The crawlspace wood members are new and free of moisture discolorations. This is good! Some wood members may obtain a slight covering of what could be a moisture discoloration overall period of time. Possible causes of future discolorations and moisture reduction maintenance tips may include but are not limited to the items discussed below. (SOIL BANKING) It is always recommended that all soil against the exterior walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. (GUTTERS) The presence of gutters and proper gutter maintenance are always recommended. (VAPOR BARRIER) A plastic vapor barrier is always recommended to keep inherent ground water to a minimum. (PLUMBING LEAKS) Previous and present plumbing leaks from aged and corroded water and drain piping can raise the moisture content where periodic inspection and leakage repairs are always recommended. (EXHAUST VENTS) All dryer or downdraft kitchen hoods should always exhaust to the exterior. (VENTILATION) Additional ventilation is always welcomed, which may include but is not limited to the installation of small fans designed to fit in the existing crawlspace vents or larger fan(s) within the entry door(s). Fans help circulate the air and remove moisture to the exterior. *****There are a total of 8 vents in the walls around the perimeter. This is good, however fans are always recommended, but are not required. (DEHUMIDIFIER) Crawlspace areas are normally damp from inherent ground moisture. Moisture can be reduced through the installation of a dehumidifier. (GROUND WATER) Sometimes inherent ground water is determined to be the issue where the contractor may recommend, the banked soil be removed, the walls coated, and a proper designed drainage system be installed along the exterior walls, and/or a trench or mote installed around the perimeter of the walls where all water drains to a centrally located sump pump, where these would be the more involved and costly approach. Moisture issues are sometimes difficult to diagnose where a system of trial and error sometimes must be undertaken. Usually the obvious and least costly approaches such as proper soil banking, downspout issues, full plastic vapor barriers, maintenance and repair of water and drain piping, robust ventilation, and the use of dehumidifiers are taken care of before proceeding. These responses are purely speculative and are provided as a courtesy. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a crawlspace, especially ones where discolorations of any kind were observed which may cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and when all the heating and air ductwork is in the crawlspace where some of the crawlspace air can be recycled throughout the house interior, a licensed contractor is always recommended to further investigate which may include air sample and discoloration testing. SMALL AMOUNTS OF DISCOLORATIONS ARE COMMON AS A CRAWLSPACE AGES AND USUALLY ONLY CREATE CONCERNS FOR INDIVIDUALS PRONE TO ALLERGIES OR ASTHMA, HOWEVER STILL MERIT CONSIDERATION ALONG WITH PROPER MAINTENANCE AND THE CORRECTION OR REDUCTION OF ANY MOISTURE ISSUES ON AN ON-GOING PRO-ACTIVE OR PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE BASIS. |
10.3 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3-The crawlspace ground is covered with a plastic vapor barrier with the exception of a small estimated 10ft x 15ft area on the left side. A full 100& percent vapor barrier is not recommended because some ground moisture is needed to prevent wood dry rot from occurring over a long period of time, however in this case the open or missing area happens to be on the left side which is the closet to the ground where the presence of a vapor barrier is more important than on the higher clearance right side. It is recommended that this small left side area be covered with a plastic vapor barrier and some small isolated areas on the right side be uncovered. (Maintenance tip.) |
10.4 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-The crawlspace vent opening covers are laying on the ground where installation is recommended to keep small animals from entering. |
10.5 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Crawlspace and basements are inherently damp where the use of a dehumidifier(s) to help with air movement and moisture content are always recommended, but not required. Generally speaking winter air is dry where a device call a humidifier can be used to put moisture back in the air, while in the summer air is too damp where a device called a dehumidifier can be used to remove unwanted or excessive moisture from the air. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Air Conditioners Air conditioners in addition to cooling the air, drop the humidity by removing a significant amount of water from the air. During the hot air conditioning times of the summer, it is more economical and practical to NOT open the windows at night even if it cools outside slightly. Leave the house closed up and don't bring the humid air inside. If you do, during the day, the air conditioner will be working that much harder to remove the heat and moisture from the air that was introduced during the night. There is a significant amount of moisture not just in the air, but absorbed by the furniture, wood etc in the house that will need to be removed to lower the humidity level in the house again. For comfort, a humid room will have to be much cooler than a dry room to have the same degree of comfort feel. So, consider this when it cools off a bit outside, if you will be running the A/C again tomorrow and it is still humid outside, don't open the windows. What is a dehumidifier and how does it work? The basic mechanical function of a dehumidifier is the same as a refrigerator. Compression and expansion of a gas is used to lower the temperature of metal coils to freezing temperature. However, instead of the cooling action being directed into a closed box, a dehumidifier is designed to blow warm moist room air over these cold coils. The moisture in the room air condenses on the coils to become liquid water. The water then drips into a drip collection pan, or to a drain. The room air, now freed of much of its moisture, returns to the room slightly warmer than it was. Dehumidifiers are controlled by a device known as a humidistat. This is an adjustable rotary switch which detects moisture in the room's air. It automatically turns the dehumidifier on or off as it is needed, based on the setting you choose. If you wish, you can set the dehumidifier to the maximum setting for continuous operation. Why would I want to purchase one? If you store anything of value in your basement, or if you use your basement as living space, it is important to keep the moisture level low. Unlike the rest of your home, the parts of your foundation that are below ground level, or "grade", is constantly in contact with moisture from the earth outside. Though some homes have adequate vapor and water barriers installed outside their foundations, many older homes have none. This moisture can cause mildew growth and damage to furniture of all types, photos, carpets, and virtually anything except the dog. It is a sad fact that every year people unknowingly destroy their valuable possessions by not taking steps to lower the level of moisture in their basement's air. How big a dehumidifier should I buy? Good question, but the answer is unclear. There are arguments for both large and small dehumidifiers. Large ones remove moisture faster, so they operate for shorter periods of time. However, there is more electricity used per hour to run a larger dehumidifier. Since more electricity is used at "start-up" than during any other time in the cycle, some of the apparent cost benefits of large size are lost. Considering that larger units are also more expensive to purchase, there may be little or no benefit to buying an oversized unit for most people. Bigger can at times really be better! The advantages of size are most noticeable when dehumidifying a large area. A small dehumidifier may run continuously and still never lower the humidity to an acceptable level. A larger unit, by dehumidifying a larger amount of air per hour, can keep up with the demands of a large room. Do I need someone to install it? That depends. Since the condensed water drips from the coils it has to go somewhere. If your basement has only a small moisture problem and you don't mind carrying the drip pan outside or to a sink, just put the dehumidifier on the floor and plug it in. It will shut off automatically when the drip pan is full... hopefully. This is not the most fun way to live with a dehumidifier... the drip pans (especially on the larger units) hold a lot of water and can be quite heavy when full. The solution is to install your dehumidifier so that it is self-draining. If you have a sink or toilet in the basement, or even a lowly floor drain, place the dehumidifier on a table or a shelf and run a hose from the drip pan to the drain. If you do not have a drain you can still make your unit self-draining, but things get more complicated. Since dehumidifiers do not pump water upwards, you may need to install a sink pump. This is a special enclosed pump designed for non-sewage use to move waste water upwards to your plumbing drain pipes. It will work with sinks, washing machines, water softeners, and... yes, dehumidifiers. Another alternative is to put the dehumidifier on a table or shelf so that it can drip into a large container, such as a 5 gallon bucket on the floor. This will decrease your number of trips for sure. The only drawback is that the dehumidifier will have no way to know if the bucket is full, so it will continue to run even after the bucket is full and overflowing all over the new carpet! Should I use a dehumidifier year round? That depends on the temperature of your basement and your local climate. Dehumidifiers do not function well at lower temperatures, so under 65 degrees it is almost a waste of money to run them. Plus, as the air temperature drops, the risk of freezing the coils increases (read the next question for more on freeze-ups). If you heat your basement, the warm air will move moisture from the basement to the house above, keeping the humidity lower in the basement and slightly humidifying the rest of the house. In areas where the ground is frozen for most or all of the winter, the amount of moisture that will migrate through the basement floor and walls will drop dramatically in the winter, so the need for dehumidification decreases. However, if you live in a temperate area, and your basement is not heated, you may have to run the dehumidifier year round. Is there any maintenance to perform? You should check the coils at least seasonally and keep them clear of dust and dirt. If the unit has a removable front cover, there may be a foam filter inside that should also be cleaned. The purpose of this cleaning is two-fold. First, dust and dirt can insulate the coils from the room air, decreasing the efficiency of the dehumidifier. Secondly, this same dirt will get damp and possibly freeze. Freezing is the most damaging thing that can happen to your dehumidifier because it will run continuously but not dehumidify the air. Humidifier Information When the weather is cold, we close the windows and turn up the heat. This is bad news for our comfort and our health. Low humidity can cause dry skin, cracked lips, itchy eyes, sore throat, and sinus headaches. One thing that makes winter uncomfortable for humans, even inside a nice warm building, is low humidity. People need a certain level of humidity to be comfortable. In the winter, indoor humidity can be extremely low and the lack of humidity can dry out your skin and mucous membranes. Low humidity also makes the air feel colder than it actually is. Dry air can also dry out the wood in the walls and floors of our houses. As the drying wood shrinks, it can cause creaks in floors and cracks in drywall and plaster. This is why dehumidifiers are used in the summer and humidifiers are used in the winter. These are just some of the symptoms of living in air that is too dry. A humidifier can sometimes help to relieve these symptoms. *****.Air quality of the home is beyond the scope of the inspection. This information was provided as a courtesy and is not meant to endorse usage. Opinions on and the the use of dehumidifiers and humidifiers may vary. In the event of the presence of air which is "too damp" or "too dry" or upon any questions involving the home's air quality a licensed heating and air or air quality contractor is always recommended. |
10.6 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends carpets be periodically cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and that an air quality contractor, heating and air contractor, or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present. Installation of a vent system type air cleaning system is always recommended, but NOT required, especially in a crawlspace or basement containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below. 1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Eclipse UV Cleanser or Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation. 2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands. 3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen. |
10.7 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs only a visual inspection and does not use items such as moisture meters to probe walls for moisture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects which arise after time of inspection. A home inspection is a snap shot in time and lists the condition at time of inspection only. ACE Home Inspection, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and always recommends licensed contractors to perform all repairs. |
10.8 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
of girders, piers, columns, supports, foundation walls, floor joists,
decking and wood members, exposed wiring and plumbing. Check that all wood
is free of visible contact with dirt, there is a vapor barrier covering
dirt floor, and crawlspace is free of visible water and debris and all
areas are accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.9 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
and operation of entry hatches and vents. Check for missing and damaged
vent screens that keep animals out of crawlspace.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.10 | ARE ALL CRAWLSPACE AREAS DRY
AND NOT WET OR UNUSUALLY DAMP (Crawlspace is inherently damp even though
there are no problems with water seepage. It is a result of the capillary
rise of ground moisture which can be reduced by covering the ground with a
plastic vapor barrier and having adequate crawlspace ventilation)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.11 | ARE BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE
ELECTRICAL OUTLETS GFCI PROTECTED Comments: NOT PRESENT |
10.12 | ARE MASONRY SURFACES FREE OF
EFFLORESCENCE DEPOSITS (These are mineral salts in the masonry that
dissolve in water as it passes through walls and floors. After the water
evaporates from the surface, it deposits these white salts. A thick layer
of efflorescence is an indication of considerable seepage.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.13 | ARE FOUNDATION WALLS/FLOORS
FREE OF VISIBLE HORIZONTAL CRACKS, V-CRACKS, OR CRACKS 1/4 INCH OR
LARGER(Horizontal cracks in concrete, brick, or sheetrock could indicate
foundation or structural problems. V-cracks are cracks that are much wider
at the top than the bottom and indicate possible settlement
problems.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.0 | COMPLIMENTARY PHOTOS
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10-Complimentary photos. |