ACE Home Inspections, LLCP.O. Box 1993 | |||
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ACE Home Inspections, LLC P.O. Box 1993 | |
Customer | |
Home |
This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.
This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.
PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS,
BANISTERS
2.4 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The rear deck has a recessed nook containing a barbecue area, the top of which has a metal throat and a metal through through to the roof. The metal cap over the flue pipe on the roof has some corrosion where painting is recommended. |
2.5 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The right side patio wood rafters and slat boards appear adequate and free of deterioration, however have some areas of minor discoloration from previous leakage. The wood shingles appear weathered and a few pieces are missing where some small areas of daylight can be seen when standing under the roof. Maintenance is recommended which may include but are not limited to replacement of missing shingles, sealing areas of daylight with caulking, and treating shingles with an approved sealant. |
2.6 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3-The poured concrete retaining wall supporting the left side trellis has a vertical crack at each corner, both are about 36 inches high, one is 3/4 to 1 inch wide and the other 3 to 4 inches wide. This is an indication that the wall has settled away. It is unknown if movement will continue where repairs/strengthening are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of some wood or steel pipe posts against the wall which are all in concrete footers or the installation of a new retaining wall. |
2.7 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) The rear deck and walkway Deck Bands are not attached properly to the wall or band of home. They should have 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. There are three bolts spaced about 5 to 6 feet apart in one area, however additional bolts are recommended. |
2.8 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The rear deck stairway has some noticeable sway or side-to-side movement where strengthening is recommended which may include but are not limited to cross-bracing to the main deck. |
2.9 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The decorative steel banisters on top of the high brick retaining wall beside the patio and pool are corroded and the long section closest to the house is loose. |
2.10 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The basement stairway has no hand-rails where installation on one side is recommended. (safety) |
2.11 | PORCHES,
DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The exterior outlet located within the small right side covered patio storage closet is missing a cover. 2-There is what appears to have been a phone jack on the the side of the rear basement entry door leading onto the right side patio. Recommend a blank cover be installed if no further usage is desired. |
EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION,
GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
3.5 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The double opening wood doors leading into the pool area are weathered where an application of an exterior wood sealant is recommended. |
3.7 | EXTERIOR
DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The roof covering appears to be only about 2 to 3 years old with no loose or missing shingles and the brick chimney has a proper rain cap that covers the entire crown. This is good, however the items listed below were observed while on top of the roof. -The front bottom estimated 2ft x 10in plywood on the left side decorative weather vane that just sits on the roof ridge is deteriorated. Replacement of this one board and heavily painting of all is recommended. -The tar around the two metal plumbing pipes which pierce the low pitch large rear dormer roof is aged with noticeable cracks where additional roof tar or new rubber boot type flashing, like the rest of the plumbing vent pipes received when the roof covering was recently installed is recommended. |
ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
4.3 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-The attic has from 12 to 14 inches of insulation for an overall resistance to heat ratio greater than R-30. This is good, however some of the fiberglass bats between the wall joists behind the heating and air unit have fallen down out of place. |
4.4 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Some of the recessed ceiling lights protruding up into the attic have a warning sticker and others do not. Refer to additional information listed below. GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION: Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire. Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer. Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number. |
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There is one white plastic vent pipe under the right side gable, or above the master bathroom does not pierce the roof as it should where instead it has a mini or burp vent attached at the top and does not pierce the roof. It is imperative that all plumbing vent pipes terminate to the exterior of the home. Presently it is possible for sewer gases to expel within this attic area. Smaller diameter vent pipes can be hooked into larger diameter pipes. This process of hooking up smaller vent pipes to larger vent pipes is called 'reventing'. This makes it a much less costly and time consuming solution to the problem versus having to make new holes in the roof. It appears however that the bottom of this pipe runs into a larger diameter pipe that does pierce the roof in this front front right corner of the house where it is unknown why this upward pipe with mini-vent was installed? Further investigation by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to sealing off the top of this pipe if determined to be unnecessary. ADDITIONAL ATTIC VENTING INFORMATION: A mini-vent or also known as a trap vent or an air admittance valve may be used as sewer vents in areas where it is impossible to vent a fixture, such as a sink installed on an island in the kitchen. Air admittance valves are permitted for single fixtures or multiple fixture traps. They are designed to replace secondary plumbing vents protecting traps of kitchen sinks, bathroom basins, tubs, showers, or washing machines. The air admittance valve must be installed to permit free movement of air and should not be installed less than 4 inches above the trap of the fixture and must be accessible for periodic inspection or replacement. An air admittance valve is a one way valve designed to allow air to enter the plumbing drainage system when negative pressures develop in the piping system. The device must close by gravity and seal the vent terminal when the internal pressure is equal to or greater than atmospheric pressure. It is designed to act a substitute for vent piping extending into the open air and not trapped or completely sealed within walls. When venting is properly installed, system air is allowed to circulate through the waste piping. The function of a vent is to maintain air inside waste and drainage piping at a constant pressure. Venting also allows sewer gases to exhaust above the roof line of the dwelling. Proper venting prevents drain trap seal loss. Most plumbing contractors are of the opinion that most mini-vents are not code approved except for one's manufactured by Studor. Studor vents have gone through rigorous testing and are generally code approved. Generic local type mini-vents such as those made by Braxton-Harris labeled PV-112 Pro-Vent ABS-1 are not generally accepted. These and other similar ones made by other manufacturers such as Oatey are generally not code approved. The main problem with mini-vents is that they contain a spring loaded washer and gasket. If the gasket goes bad then sewer gases will escape within the house. In this case since the vents are embedded within the walls, if the gaskets go bad then sewer gases will flow directly into the walls, which overtime could build up bacteria and other moisture issues. This is why only code approved devices should be used. In reality, for example, if a sink was installed in the center island of the kitchen, then a mini-vent might be acceptable. Even then it should be installed in open air where it can be plainly viewed for inspection or at the very least if it is in the wall there should be a cover similar to a heating and air vent cover that can be removed to obtain access to the mini-vent. All vent pipes located in an attic from bathrooms, kitchens, etc... can individually pierce the roof or can be connected together where a smaller amount pierces the roof, however none should be allowed to just vent directly into the attic, even though they have an attached mini-vent. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Gable vent screening within the attic appears adequate except for the far left one which was observed for some reason to be entirely covered with plastic. Removal of plastic is recommended to achieve a more robust overall attic ventilation. |
4.7 | ATTIC, ROOF
INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-An aged roof ventilator fan in the left side former garage attic was removed and the roof properly covered with new plywood decking when the roof covering was recently replaced. This is good, however the old fan was left hanging by its wires and one of three small round electrical junction boxes is missing a cover. |
KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
5.3 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The grouting along the lower half of three separate corners of the master bathroom ceramic tile shower stall is hairline cracked. The shower was left running for quite some time and no leakage was observed in the crawlspace under this area. This shower stall appears to have been upgraded from its original construction where most likely there is a full plastic pan under it to prevent leakage, however recommended any cracks in grouting be repaired with new grout or all corners be uniformly caulked with clear caulking. |
5.4 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The master bathroom has a whirlpool tub. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect whirlpool tubs other than noting their existence, whether GFCI protection is present, if the hot and cold water is adequate, if proper drainage exists, and if motor unit turns on. The whirlpool tub does not appear to be GFCI protected. Even though GFCI protection for whirlpool tubs may or may not have been required at the time of installation ACE Home Inspections, LLC considers it to be a MAJOR safety issue where upgrading by either owner or buyer is ALWAYS strongly recommended before next tub usage! |
5.5 | KITCHEN,
BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-Three ceramic floor tiles at the top of the basement entry stairs are cracked, however still appear structurally adequate. (cosmetic) |
ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels,
Exterior)
7.4 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12-All readily accessible outlets were tested with a SureTest electrical tester. The outlets were found to be a mix of grounded and ungrounded with the majority being grounded. All outlets are 3-prong, however it is important to note that just because it has 3 prongs, does NOT mean that it is grounded. For example, the round recessed floor outlet in the formal dining room is ungrounded, however the floor outlet in the kitchen is grounded. This should not be expected for a house of this age where most likely all were grounded at the time of inspection. There are many reasons for them being ungrounded, some of which may be a worn outlet, the ground wire could be disconncted, or some outlets may be wired with ungrounded type cable? The outlets have the proper voltage and are functional, however it is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes. It is recommended that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets. -----UPGRADE-----The bathroom and exterior outlets except the one on the front porch are GFCI protected. This is good, however within this property, kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink basin, unfinished basement areas, crawlspace, and exterior outlets should be GFCI protected. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. -----UPGRADE-----There were no AFCI protected bedroom outlets observed. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. Please read general GFCI and AFCI information below. GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). Remember that breakers are designed to protect only the wiring and GFCI's are designed to protect people against electrical shock. It is always recommended that kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink, bathroom outlets, unfinished basement or crawlspace areas, garage, exterior, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpool tubs, or any outlets residing on or by any body of water be upgraded to GFCI type outlets by a licensed electrical contractor. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. |
7.5 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The bottom receptacle of the exterior outlet located under the pool pump panel on the rear wall has a ground prong stuck in it where repairs are repairs are recommended. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2-Both GFCI type electrical outlets on the rear upper deck have the proper voltage, however no longer function as a GFCI where they do not trip and reset. Replacement with new GFCI type outlets is recommended. |
7.7 | ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The electrical system is grounded to an exterior ground rod along the right wall and to the interior water pipes. This is good, however the clamp securing the ground wire to the rod is loose. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to tightening present clamp is possible or the installation of a new clamp. |
FIREPLACE, CHIMNEY
10.1 | FIREPLACE AND
CHIMNEY MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
10.2 | FIREPLACE AND
CHIMNEY MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-The fireplace firebrick firebox appeared adequate and free of major cracks, however some areas of mortar are missing on the floor of the firebox between the bricks where further investigation and repair by a licensed fireplace or chimney sweep contractor is recommended. This unit has a ceramic flue liner and is meant for wood burning. |
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
11.6 | BASEMENT,
CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1,2,3,4,5-The center doubled-up load bearing floor joist beside the workshop entry wall in the narrow left side high clearance crawlspace is being supported by a telescoping type adjustable column. Telescopic adjustable columns are not approved in the United States for use a s a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. *****Recommend further investigation and repair by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs may include but are not limited to the installation of a permanent 3 inch diameter steel pipe post that is on a solid poured concrete footer or footer pad. |
Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property.
LANDSCAPING: FRONT SLOPES DOWN TO RIGHT PROPERTY SLOPES DOWN TO RIGHT LEFT DRAINS DOWN TO REAR REAR SLOPES DOWN TO RAVINE |
RETAINING WALLS: CONCRETE TRELLIS WALL BRICK RIGHT SIDE WALL BRICK AND BLOCK PATIO WALL SHORT STONE FRONT WALL |
WALKWAYS AND
DRIVEWAYS: ASPHALT DRIVEWAY |
1.0 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS 1-The wood deck style walkway type bridge across the rear ravine is beyond the scope of the inspection. |
1.1 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS 1-The far right side concrete block retaining wall beside the pool is relatively level and free of major cracking. This is good! |
1.2 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS 1-The front is sloped where water drains down to the right into the area along the top of the right side lower patio high brick retaining wall. It appears that some of the water may gather along the top or near the high brick retaining wall. There are a half dozen lower 1 inch escape drains near the bottom of the retaining wall. This is good, however retaining wall cracking and deterioration can sometimes be a slow process over time where proper landscaping along the top is still important. Recommend monitoring water run-off during a storm and drainage enhancements if water should pool or collect, which may include but are not limited to the installation of a wide shallow drainage depression in the yard starting at the front porch and running down to where the retaining wall meets the steps leading down to the pool area. (Maintenance tip.) |
1.3 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
1,2,3-The soil under the deck is sloped down and away and there are also three underground drains. This is good, however the area of ground around the upper gutter downspout has become eroded. The property along the rear is sloped where water drains down from the left parking area and possibly along this corner. It is also important to note that the downspout has a long vinyl extension hose to carry the water away and that this erosion may have been caused from when this was not in place? Recommend monitoring during a storm and drainage enhancements if water is observed along this area, which may include but are not limited to filling in eroded areas with soil and the installation of a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression from the corner of the left side parking area down to the area under the stairway. (Maintenance tip.) |
1.4 | WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS,
LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS (Visible condition. Checking for proper water
runoff away from the house, the landscape for presence of holes, sunken
areas, bald spots, eroding areas, and tripping hazards, trees and
vegetation clearances, and drainage weep holes or drains at the base of
retaining walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
FRONT PORCH: RECESSED UNDER HOUSE ROOF 1 BRICK COLUMN WOOD CEILING STONE AND SLAB FLOOR OLD BRICK PORCH PRESENT |
RIGHT SIDE PATIO: HALF OPEN HALF COVERED WOOD SHINGLE ROOF COVERING 4X6 RAFTERS 1X3 SLATS 4X12 SILL JOISTS 4 BRICK ROOF COLUMNS CONCRETE SLAB SQUARES FLOOR |
REAR OPEN DECK: NO ROOF 2X6 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS SPACED 12 INCHES APART 4X4 6X6 DECK COLUMNS 2 STORIES HIGH LATTICE SURROUND |
STEPS AND STAIRWAYS: STONE FRONT YARD STEPS RAILROAD TIE YARD STEPS CONCRETE RIGHT PATIO STEPS WOOD LEFT SIDE STEPS WOOD DECK STAIRWAY WOOD BASEMENT STAIRWAY |
RAILINGS AND
BANISTERS: WOOD DECK BANISTERS |
2.0 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The concrete block foundation walls supporting the front porch are relatively level and free of major cracking, deterioration, and signs of moisture intrusion. This is good! |
2.1 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2-The right side patio and house living room have mounted speakers. Sound systems and all associated components are beyond the scope of the inspection. |
2.2 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The right side covered concrete patio and steps leading down to the pool have some minor cracks. (These type cracks are normal, cosmetic, usually not serious and may have been caused from original concrete mix problems, settlement after house was constructed, or nearby tree roots. Most likely there should not be a problem, if the cracks have not worsened with time. Repairs are recommended if any sections should become dislodged or crumbled.) |
2.3 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-One railroad tie in the steps leading from the pool to the right side is deteriorated. |
2.4 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2,3-The rear deck has a recessed nook containing a barbecue area, the top of which has a metal throat and a metal through through to the roof. The metal cap over the flue pipe on the roof has some corrosion where painting is recommended. |
2.5 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2-The right side patio wood rafters and slat boards appear adequate and free of deterioration, however have some areas of minor discoloration from previous leakage. The wood shingles appear weathered and a few pieces are missing where some small areas of daylight can be seen when standing under the roof. Maintenance is recommended which may include but are not limited to replacement of missing shingles, sealing areas of daylight with caulking, and treating shingles with an approved sealant. |
2.6 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1,2,3-The poured concrete retaining wall supporting the left side trellis has a vertical crack at each corner, both are about 36 inches high, one is 3/4 to 1 inch wide and the other 3 to 4 inches wide. This is an indication that the wall has settled away. It is unknown if movement will continue where repairs/strengthening are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of some wood or steel pipe posts against the wall which are all in concrete footers or the installation of a new retaining wall. |
2.7 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
The rear deck and walkway Deck Bands are not attached properly to the wall or band of home. They should have 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. There are three bolts spaced about 5 to 6 feet apart in one area, however additional bolts are recommended. |
2.8 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The rear deck stairway has some noticeable sway or side-to-side movement where strengthening is recommended which may include but are not limited to cross-bracing to the main deck. |
2.9 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The decorative steel banisters on top of the high brick retaining wall beside the patio and pool are corroded and the long section closest to the house is loose. |
2.10 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS 1-The basement stairway has no hand-rails where installation on one side is recommended. (safety) |
2.11 | PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS,
STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
1-The exterior outlet located within the small right side covered patio storage closet is missing a cover. 2-There is what appears to have been a phone jack on the the side of the rear basement entry door leading onto the right side patio. Recommend a blank cover be installed if no further usage is desired. |
2.12 | PORCH (Visible condition of
roof, eaves, gutters, attic, ventilation, columns, foundation, floor,
coverings, storage closets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.13 | PORCH (Visible condition and
operation of doors, lights, switches, and outlets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.14 | DECK (Visible condition.
Checking roof, roof support structures, attic, ceilings, screens, gates,
doors, if deck support columns are resting on concrete footers, and if
deck is secured properly with lag bolts or a ledgerboard with metal joist
brackets.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.15 | COMMON HALLWAYS AND CORRIDORS
(Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, cabinets,
lights, switches, outlets, heating, cooling.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.16 | STOOPS, STEPS, STAIRS,
BANISTERS, AND RAILINGS (Visible condition. Checking for potential
tripping hazards from variations in step riser heights, narrow tread
steps, unlevel steps or steep stairs. Checking for adequate
headroom.) Comments: INSPECTED |
2.17 | SPACINGS BETWEEN ANY TWO
RAILING BANISTERS OF 4 TO 5 INCHES OR LESS (Safety issue for
children.) Comments: INSPECTED |
DOOR INFO: 7 HOUSE ENTRY DOORS ALL ARE WOOD ALL HAVE A DEADBOLT |
HOUSE WINDOWS: FIXED FRONT WINDOWS WOOD MUNTINS WOOD SINGLE-PANE DOUBLE-HUNG ALUMINUM SASHES |
SIDING MATERIAL: FRONT BRICK 3 SIDES WOOD SHINGLES |
SOFFIT/FASCIA
MATERIAL: WOOD |
GUTTER MATERIAL: ALUMINUM |
FOUNDATION MATERIAL: CONCRETE BLOCK EXTERIOR BRICK COVERED |
VIEWED ROOF FROM: ROOF-LINE BY LADDER WALK ENTIRE ROOF/USE LADDER |
ROOF TYPE: MAIN CENTER GABLE LEFT SIDE GABLE EXTENSION RIGHT SIDE GABLE EXTENSION RIGHT PERPENDICULAR GABLE |
ROOF COVERING: ARCHITECTURAL FIBERGLASS ASPHALT SHINGLES |
LAYERS: ONE |
ESTIMATED ROOF AGE: 2 TO 3 YEARS |
ROOF VENTILATION: GABLE VENTS SOFFIT VENTS ROOF VENTILATOR FAN |
CHIMNEY(S): ONE CHIMNEY |
SKY LIGHT (S): NONE |
ROOF PENETRATIONS: 8 TOTAL PENETRATIONS |
3.0 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Some siding is brick and relatively low maintenance, however the majority of the siding is wood, and the trim boards, porch members, entry door frames, and soffit and fascia are wood and subject to deterioration if not properly maintained. It is strongly recommended that all exterior wood be painted on a periodic basis. The whole point is to prevent moisture damage which leads to costly total replacement. The bottom six to twelve inches of wood door frames are notorious for rapid deterioration when not properly maintained. It is very important to at least once a year, and more if needed, to keep at least the bottom six to twelve inches caulked and painted. IT CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH THAT PERIODIC PAINTING OF ALL WOOD SURFACES IS A MUST!!! Whenever small cracks start to develop at the end of the boards, it is time to paint! (Maintenance tip.) |
3.1 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Minor lines or small cracks can be viewed in some areas under the heavily painted soffit boards. These areas, as stated have been kept heavily painted, and should stay adequate as long as they are maintained through periodic painting. It is time to paint, usually every 3 to 5 years, or when small cracks in the paint start to develop.. (Maintenance tip.) |
3.2 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The majority of the gutter downspouts drain underground, as shown. This is good! |
3.3 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The lower rear high clearance crawlspace entry door exterior is rough but still functional, however keeping heavily painted is recommended. |
3.4 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Several helical anchors or helix piers have been installed through the rear foundation wall of the former left side garage. Owner stated this was done shorty after moving in when a crack with noticeable side-to-side differential was observed. Helical piers and anchors are considered to be a robust form of foundation repair. This is good! These can not be viewed from the interior because the former garage has a solid concrete foundation. ADDITIONAL ANCHOR AND PIER INFORMATION: Helical anchors or helix piers are installed in the ground to stabilize and prevent a foundation wall from continuing to shift. The problem may be where the concrete footer in this area is sinking/shifting in expansive or collapsible soils. This is where helical anchors and helix piers have a huge advantage. They can be used in place of concrete footers when constructing a new wall or for repairing an existing wall containing sinking concrete footers. The advantage most anchoring systems have is a predictable holding capacity and reliability in areas of poor soil conditions with minimal sit e impact. Installing some type of an anchoring system at this time, if the recommended specialist determines there is indeed a problem, would be a significant cost savings over waiting until problem worsens. |
3.5 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold. |
3.6 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY 1-The double opening wood doors leading into the pool area are weathered where an application of an exterior wood sealant is recommended. |
3.7 | EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS,
SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The roof covering appears to be only about 2 to 3 years old with no loose or missing shingles and the brick chimney has a proper rain cap that covers the entire crown. This is good, however the items listed below were observed while on top of the roof. -The front bottom estimated 2ft x 10in plywood on the left side decorative weather vane that just sits on the roof ridge is deteriorated. Replacement of this one board and heavily painting of all is recommended. -The tar around the two metal plumbing pipes which pierce the low pitch large rear dormer roof is aged with noticeable cracks where additional roof tar or new rubber boot type flashing, like the rest of the plumbing vent pipes received when the roof covering was recently installed is recommended. |
3.8 | WINDOWS, SHUTTERS AND AWNINGS
(Visible condition and checking for the presence and functionality of
window flashing and operation of windows and window locks.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.9 | ENTRY DOORS, STORM DOORS,
SECURITY DOORS, AND DOORBELL (Visible condition and operation, checking
hardware, locks, coverings, frame, trim, weatherstripping, presence of
deadbolts on all exterior doors, proper locking, opening, and closing of
sliding glass doors, and the presence of a security dead-pin in all
sliding glass doors.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.10 | FOUNDATION WALLS AND MORTAR
JOINTS (Visible condition, checking for cracked, crumbled, loose, missing,
eroded areas, or large gaps) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.11 | EXTERIOR WALL COVERINGS,
FLASHING,TRIM, AND CAULKING (Visible condition. A wall flashing is defined
as a material used around angles or junctions on exterior walls to prevent
water leakage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.12 | HOUSE FRAMING (Visible
condition, checking for any cracks developing outside of the house, cracks
between a chimney and the exterior wall or any cracks running outward at
an angle from the upper corners of windows and door frames.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
3.13 | OUTSIDE ACCESS TO HOUSE IS
RODENT PROOF Comments: INSPECTED |
3.14 | ROOF COVERING (Visible
condition. Checking roof penetrations such as, roof vents, ridge vents,
wind turbines, soffit vents, gable vents, chimneys, furnace flues, water
heater flues, plumbing vents, skylights and any other penetrations.
Checking flashings which are used to seal around roof penetrations and
intersections. Checking rain caps on chimneys and flues.) Comments: INSPECTED |
3.15 | SOFFIT, FASCIA, EAVES,
GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS (Visible condition. Checking if gutters are provided
where necessary, including porches, flat roofs, and dormers. Checking
whether splasblocks are in place if underground piping is not used for
rain gutter drainage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
ROOF STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD RAFTERS PLYWOOD ROOF DECKING PURLIN BRACING BOARDS |
CEILING STRUCTURE: 2 x 6 WOOD JOISTS |
RAFTER SPACING: 24 INCHES |
JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
INSULATION TYPE: FIBERGLASS |
INSULATION INCHES: 12 TO 14 INCHES |
R- VALUE: ABOVE R-30 |
ATTIC INFO: LET SIDE GARAGE ATTIC MAIN HOUSE ATTIC |
4.0 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
The center of the right side attic has some decking for storage. This is good! |
4.1 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7-The wood members throughout the attic areas appeared free of major moisture discoloration and deterioration. The insulation under readily accessible roof penetrations was scooped away in order to inspect the plasterboard ceilings Some sections of new plywood were observed indicating the previous areas of deterioration have been replaced. Overall attic construction is adequate and robust with 2x6 rafters, 2x6 ceiling joists, purlin bracing boards, and the majority of the rafters are properly aligned onto the ridge boards. This is good! It is important to note that a couple small areas of roof decking where the rear low pitch roof attaches along the upper ridge appear aged and weak. These areas, as stated, are rather small and should not pose an issue, however warrant avoiding these areas when walking the roof. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any leakage within the attic that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the attic inspection and only readily accessible areas are inspected and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. |
4.2 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1-A small antenna of an unknown purpose resides in the left side of the center attic. |
4.3 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-The attic has from 12 to 14 inches of insulation for an overall resistance to heat ratio greater than R-30. This is good, however some of the fiberglass bats between the wall joists behind the heating and air unit have fallen down out of place. |
4.4 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-Some of the recessed ceiling lights protruding up into the attic have a warning sticker and others do not. Refer to additional information listed below. GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION: Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire. Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer. Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number. |
4.5 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES) 1-There is one white plastic vent pipe under the right side gable, or above the master bathroom does not pierce the roof as it should where instead it has a mini or burp vent attached at the top and does not pierce the roof. It is imperative that all plumbing vent pipes terminate to the exterior of the home. Presently it is possible for sewer gases to expel within this attic area. Smaller diameter vent pipes can be hooked into larger diameter pipes. This process of hooking up smaller vent pipes to larger vent pipes is called 'reventing'. This makes it a much less costly and time consuming solution to the problem versus having to make new holes in the roof. It appears however that the bottom of this pipe runs into a larger diameter pipe that does pierce the roof in this front front right corner of the house where it is unknown why this upward pipe with mini-vent was installed? Further investigation by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to sealing off the top of this pipe if determined to be unnecessary. ADDITIONAL ATTIC VENTING INFORMATION: A mini-vent or also known as a trap vent or an air admittance valve may be used as sewer vents in areas where it is impossible to vent a fixture, such as a sink installed on an island in the kitchen. Air admittance valves are permitted for single fixtures or multiple fixture traps. They are designed to replace secondary plumbing vents protecting traps of kitchen sinks, bathroom basins, tubs, showers, or washing machines. The air admittance valve must be installed to permit free movement of air and should not be installed less than 4 inches above the trap of the fixture and must be accessible for periodic inspection or replacement. An air admittance valve is a one way valve designed to allow air to enter the plumbing drainage system when negative pressures develop in the piping system. The device must close by gravity and seal the vent terminal when the internal pressure is equal to or greater than atmospheric pressure. It is designed to act a substitute for vent piping extending into the open air and not trapped or completely sealed within walls. When venting is properly installed, system air is allowed to circulate through the waste piping. The function of a vent is to maintain air inside waste and drainage piping at a constant pressure. Venting also allows sewer gases to exhaust above the roof line of the dwelling. Proper venting prevents drain trap seal loss. Most plumbing contractors are of the opinion that most mini-vents are not code approved except for one's manufactured by Studor. Studor vents have gone through rigorous testing and are generally code approved. Generic local type mini-vents such as those made by Braxton-Harris labeled PV-112 Pro-Vent ABS-1 are not generally accepted. These and other similar ones made by other manufacturers such as Oatey are generally not code approved. The main problem with mini-vents is that they contain a spring loaded washer and gasket. If the gasket goes bad then sewer gases will escape within the house. In this case since the vents are embedded within the walls, if the gaskets go bad then sewer gases will flow directly into the walls, which overtime could build up bacteria and other moisture issues. This is why only code approved devices should be used. In reality, for example, if a sink was installed in the center island of the kitchen, then a mini-vent might be acceptable. Even then it should be installed in open air where it can be plainly viewed for inspection or at the very least if it is in the wall there should be a cover similar to a heating and air vent cover that can be removed to obtain access to the mini-vent. All vent pipes located in an attic from bathrooms, kitchens, etc... can individually pierce the roof or can be connected together where a smaller amount pierces the roof, however none should be allowed to just vent directly into the attic, even though they have an attached mini-vent. |
4.6 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2-Gable vent screening within the attic appears adequate except for the far left one which was observed for some reason to be entirely covered with plastic. Removal of plastic is recommended to achieve a more robust overall attic ventilation. |
4.7 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
1,2,3,4-An aged roof ventilator fan in the left side former garage attic was removed and the roof properly covered with new plywood decking when the roof covering was recently replaced. This is good, however the old fan was left hanging by its wires and one of three small round electrical junction boxes is missing a cover. |
4.8 | ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (Visible
condition. Checking attic insulation, exposed wiring, lights and water
pipes. Checking to see that all attic areas are accessible, all exposed
sections of chimney in attic are free of soot and creosote leakage, that
soffit vents are not covered with insulation, and attic ventilation vent
screening which keeps animals out) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.9 | GAS FLUE AND CHIMNEY
FIRESTOPPING (Visible condition. Firestopping refers to size of the hole
made in the ceiling and roof so as to maintain the proper clearance from a
hot metal flue pipe or chimney brick.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.10 | DO ALL FLUES AND VENTS
PRESENT IN ATTIC TERMINATE TO THE EXTERIOR (Water heater flue, furnace
flue, metal chimney flue, plumbing vents, bathroom fan vents, range hood
vent, dryer vent, etc...) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.11 | RAFTERS, DECKING, JOISTS OR
TRUSSES (Visible condition. Check for rafters pulling away from ridge
board, rot, cracks, splits, cut, altered or missing supports.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.12 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE ROOF
LEAKS OR DETERIORATION (Flashing refers to materials, usually metal, that
join parts of the house to the roof. Common places where roof leaks occur
are flashings around chimneys, metal gas flues, plumbing vents, turbines,
dormers, valleys, or any other roof penetrations or intersections.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
4.13 | IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE
CONDENSATION OR MOISTURE DAMAGE DUE TO IMPROPER VENTILATION (Often what
appears to be a leak is in fact condensation, and a sign of inadequate
ventilation. Proper attic ventilation reduces heat in summer and prevents
condensation in winter. It allows air to carry off water vapor before it
can condense and cause moisture damage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
4.14 | INSTALLED MECHANICAL
VENTILATION SYSTEMS (Visible condition and operation of power ventilators
and fans) Comments: INSPECTED |
REFRIGERATOR: TRAULSEN DATED 2006 |
MEASURED REFRIGERATOR
TEMP: 37 DEG |
RANGE/COOKTOP BRAND: WOLF |
RANGE/COOKTOP ENERGY: NATURAL GAS |
OVEN: NORMAL UNDER COOKTOP |
OVEN: GENERAL ELECTRIC BUILT-IN STAND-ALONE ELECTRIC |
BUILT-IN MICROWAVE: NONE |
RANGE HOOD: NONE |
HOOD EXHAUST: N/A |
DISHWASHER: MIELE |
DISPOSER: NONE |
TRASH COMPACTORS: NONE |
INTERIOR CEILING
MATERIALS: PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR WALL
MATERIALS: WOOD PLASTERBOARD |
INTERIOR FLOOR
MATERIALS: HARDWOOD T&G CARPET CERAMIC TILE PLYWOOD |
BATHROOMS: 3 FULL |
BATHROOM INFO: 1 WHIRLPOOL TUB 2 CERAMIC TILE SHOWER STALLS 1 METAL TUB WITH CERAMIC TILE SURROUND |
BATHROOM INFO: 1 PEDESTAL SINK CULTURED MARBLE SINK TOP MARBLE SINK TOPS WOOD SINK VANITIES |
KITCHEN SINK: SINGLE BASIN STAINLESS |
KITCHEN INFO: WINDOW OVER SINK CENTER ISLAND COUNTER |
OTHER INTERIOR INFO: 13.6 FT HIGH FAMILY ROOM LIVING ROOM WALL SHELVES FORMICA LAUNDRY COUNTER SINGLE BASIN LAUNDRY SINK FAMILY ROOM LAUNDRY NOOK |
5.0 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2-The stove top and oven burners and elements are functional. This is good! |
5.1 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS
1,2,3,4,5,6,7-Each sink basin was filled in order to pressurize the piping to inspect for leakage. |
5.2 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-House ceilings were closely inspected and found free of major discoloration and deterioration. This is good! |
5.3 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The grouting along the lower half of three separate corners of the master bathroom ceramic tile shower stall is hairline cracked. The shower was left running for quite some time and no leakage was observed in the crawlspace under this area. This shower stall appears to have been upgraded from its original construction where most likely there is a full plastic pan under it to prevent leakage, however recommended any cracks in grouting be repaired with new grout or all corners be uniformly caulked with clear caulking. |
5.4 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-The master bathroom has a whirlpool tub. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect whirlpool tubs other than noting their existence, whether GFCI protection is present, if the hot and cold water is adequate, if proper drainage exists, and if motor unit turns on. The whirlpool tub does not appear to be GFCI protected. Even though GFCI protection for whirlpool tubs may or may not have been required at the time of installation ACE Home Inspections, LLC considers it to be a MAJOR safety issue where upgrading by either owner or buyer is ALWAYS strongly recommended before next tub usage! |
5.5 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS 1-Three ceramic floor tiles at the top of the basement entry stairs are cracked, however still appear structurally adequate. (cosmetic) |
5.6 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends used carpets be properly cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and an air quality or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present, before closing. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not dismantle or open any non readily accessible areas such as air vents or ductwork and does not move objects or furniture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects of any kind such as any cracked tile or torn and soiled carpet under furniture. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and lists all conditions at the time of inspection, where the inspection is like a snapshot in time. For example a component proved to be in working order at time of inspection, could be malfunctioning soon after moving in at no fault of ACE Home Inspections, LLC. |
5.7 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC only tests a random sampling of house smoke alarms always recommends that ALL smoke alarms be tested and replaced if found defective before moving in. It is always recommended that a local fire department be contacted to determine where smoke alarms should be installed since each jurisdiction may have different standards. |
5.8 | KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR
ROOMS Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees. A home inspection is like a snap shot in time where component conditions are noted at the time of inspection. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for component conditions occurring after the time of the inspection. |
5.9 | KITCHEN (Visible condition of
ceiling, walls, cabinets, shelving, countertops, plumbing. Checking that
all outlets within six feet of sink have GFCI protection, and there are
separate water shut-off valves for faucet, dishwasher, and
ice-maker.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.10 | KITCHEN (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, lights,
switches, outlets, sink, faucet, spray nozzle and all appliances staying
with house: range, oven, microwave, vent hood, dishwasher, disposal,
refrigerator or any other appliances. Checking that sink and dishwasher
drain properly, and hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature
are adequate.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.11 | RANGE HOOD VENTING SYSTEM (If
range hood is nonvented type, is there a clean charcoal or aluminum filter
in place. A nonvented hood is for filtering odors and grease vapors and
will not remove heat or steam like a vented range hood. A non-vented range
hood is identified by louvers on the front of the hood and does not vent
to exterior as a vented hood does.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.12 | ARE FAUCETS FREE OF HAMMERING
AND VIBRATING NOISES WHEN TURNED ON/OFF RAPIDLY (This occurs when water
flowing in the pipe comes to an abrupt stop, introducing shock and
vibrations that can damage pipes or fittings. It is caused by improper
sized pipes and can be fixed with an air chamber or antiknock coil which
provides an air cushion to absorb shock.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.13 | DOES SINK DRAIN INTO A P-TRAP
UNDER THE SINK (A trap is needed to provide a water seal that blocks sewer
gases from seeping back into house. Some homes still have S-type traps
that do not always vent properly. If a sucking and gurgling noise occurs
after almost all the water has drained, the water seal has been lost. All
S-traps should be converted to P-traps.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.14 | DOES SINK HAVE AN AIR GAP TO
PREVENT BACK SIPHONAGE (Simply speaking, the air gap prevents the dirty
sink water from being sucked back into the clean water supply pipes
through the end of the faucet if the sink should overflow. There should be
a gap of at least 1 inch between the end of the faucet where the water
exits and the flood rim of the sink.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.15 | WAS GAS RANGE/COOKTOP AREA
CHECKED WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
5.16 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition of ceilings and walls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.17 | INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible
condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, lights, switches,
outlets) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.18 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
of ceiling, walls, cabinets, countertops, and caulking.) Comments: INSPECTED |
5.19 | BATHROOM (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, exhaust
fans, lights, switches, outlets, sinks, tubs, showers, and commodes.
Checking presence of cut-off valves for faucets and commodes, proper
draining of sinks, tubs, showers and commodes, use of P-traps and not old
S-traps, proper air-gap for sinks, tubs, and hand-held shower wands to
prevent back siphonage, faucets for improper hammering and vibrating
noises when turned on/off rapidly, adequacy of hot and cold water
pressure, volume, and temperature, exhaust fans for proper venting to
building exterior and outlet GFCI protection.) Comments: INSPECTED |
PLUMBING SUPPLY: COPPER |
DISTRIBUTION: COPPER |
PLUMBING WASTE: CAST IRON/METAL PIPE WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING |
WASTE SYSTEM: UNKNOWN |
WATER SOURCE: PUBLIC |
WATER HEATER
BRAND/DATE: TAKAGI TK-3 FLASH DATED 08/03/2007 TANKLESS MODEL |
WATER HEATER POWER
SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
CAPACITY: 199000 BTU/HR |
WATER FILTERS: NONE OBSERVED |
DRYER POWER SOURCE: 220 ELECTRIC |
WATER CUT-OFF: AT STREET |
BATHROOM SINK
PLUMBING: WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING GRAY TUBING WATER LINES METAL-FLEX WATER LINES |
KITCHEN SINK
PLUMBING: METAL DRAIN PIPING METAL-FLEX WATER LINES |
WASHER: NOT INCLUDED MIELE |
DRYER: NOT INCLUDED MIELE |
6.0 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1,2,3-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect or operate any components pertaining to hot tubs, spas, or swimming pools other than noting their existence, and the listing of specific system component dates of manufacture. as a courtesy. Questions pertaining to system operation should be directed to owner or a licensed pool contractor. Periodic pool inspections by a licensed pool contractor to include verification of proper GFCI protection is always recommended Pool Component Info: -Sta-Rite sand filter -Pent-Air model 320 auto chlorinator -RayPak RP2100 natural gas pool heater dated 06/2002 -AOSmith pool pump -Polaris Booster pump -Intermatic and Paragon analog timers *****Pool lighting is fed from a GFCI type beaker located in the front workshop panel. This is good! This breaker was tripped and reset and found functional, however verification on whether it shuts all lighting off is beyond the scope of the inspection. *****A proper cover structure or roof is recommended over the pool filter, pump, booster pump, heater, and electrical panels, but is not required.. (Maintenance tip.) |
6.1 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The natural gas supply is a 2 psi system which requires a separate regulator at each device. Gas appliances within the house are the crawlspace located furnace, tankless water heater, gas stove and lower oven, pool heater furnace, and a gas line to fireplace starter. |
6.2 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-The property has a yard sprinkler system which are beyond the scope of the inspection. |
6.3 | PLUMBING SYSTEM 1-House water cut-off is located in front yard. A pressure regulator also exists in the basement and can be used to adjust house water pressure. Water pressure appeared adequate and should not need to be adjusted. This is good! |
6.4 | PLUMBING SYSTEM The house has a tankless water heater. The unit is functional and has a proper TPR valve and discharge pipe. This is good! Takagi's smallest, most versatile and most powerful residential model. Connect up to four units to meet the demands of even the largest homes! The compact T-K3 measures under 14 inches wide to save space. But the T-K3 is also powerful. With Takagi's new easy link technology, the T-K3 will meet the hot-water needs of most high volume residential applications. More information can be found by visiting http://www.takagi.com/web2003/tk3.htm |
6.5 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION: Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap. |
6.6 | PLUMBING SYSTEM There was no potable water expansion tank observed which are always recommended but are NOT required. (Maintenance tip.) ADDITIONAL EXPANSION TANK INFORMATION: A potable water expansion tank is always recommended, but not required between the cold water line and the water pressure reducing valve. It is designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands and in a domestic hot water system the system may be closed when isolated by a pressure reducing valve. Provisions should be made for this expansion. The expansion tank absorbs the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T & P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and ensures a longer system life. The tank has a polypropylene liner, butyl diaphragm and a field adjustable pre-charge. Refer to sample picture. |
6.7 | PLUMBING SYSTEM
1-----UPGRADE-----The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 1. 2-----UPGRADE-----Washer hoses that are original black hose type are susceptible to sudden leaking. It is always recommended, but not required, that new wire braided permanent type hoses be installed like the ones shown. These can be purchased at major home and appliance centers and are relatively inexpensive. (Maintenance tip.) |
6.8 | WATER HEATER, PTV - PRESSURE
TEMPERATURE VALVE, PTV DRAIN PIPING (Visible condition. Checking presence
of a drain pan under unit if installed in attic or room over a living
area, and presence of a cold water inlet water cut-off valve.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
6.9 | FLUE PIPE AND VENTING
(Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and
clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to
exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.10 | COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY
(Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine
with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a
good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete
combustion.) Comments: NOT INSPECTED |
6.11 | IF FLUE PIPE GOES TO FURNACE
FLUE, IS IT ON TOP (If both the water heater and furnace go into the same
chimney sleeve, then the furnace must be on the bottom because it has most
BTU's and makes the draft.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
6.12 | WAS GAS WATER HEATER AREA
CHECKED WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
6.13 | EXPOSED INTERIOR WATER PIPING
(Visible condition, looking for leaks, corrosion, sagging sections, and
valves where it enters house and stops at the point where it enters rooms
where it then will be described in each rooms description in this
report.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.14 | EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS, WATER
PRESSURE, WATER VOLUME, WATER DRAINS (Visible condition and operation.
Checking for presence of faucet backflow preventers.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.15 | CLOTHES WASHER WATER
CONNECTIONS, DRAIN PIPE, AND HOSES (Visible condition.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.16 | ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET
OR GAS CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION (Visible condition. Checking dryer exhaust
vent for exterior building termination and exterior cover with functional
flap.) Comments: INSPECTED |
6.17 | DRAINAGE SUMPS, SUMP PUMPS,
AND RELATED PIPING (Visible condition and operation, checking any
switches, valves, piping, and for any debris. Sump pumps are used to
remove ground water and/or surface water from the house.) Comments: NOT PRESENT |
SERVICE DROP TO
HOUSE: ABOVE GROUND USES A DRIP LOOP ATTACHES TO SIDING |
MAIN PANEL TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
WIRING METHODS: ROMEX |
15 AND 20 AMP CIRCUIT
TYPE: COPPER |
MAIN HOUSE POWER
DISCONNECT: RATED 200 AMP IN MAIN PANEL CUTS ALL POWER |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
CAPACITY: 200 AMP |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
LOCATION: RIGHT SIDE CRAWLSPACE |
MAIN HOUSE PANEL
MANUFACTURER: SIEMENS |
HOUSE BREAKERS: SIEMENS |
SUB-PANEL A CAPACITY: 125 AMP |
SUB-PANEL A TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL A
MANUFACTURER: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL A LOCATION: REAR WALL FILTER AREA |
SUB-PANEL A BREAKERS: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL B CAPACITY: 200 AMP |
SUB-PANEL B TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL B
MANUFACTURER: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL B LOCATION: BASEMENT OFFICE/BEDROOM |
SUB-PANEL B BREAKERS: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL C CAPACITY: 125 AMP |
SUB-PANEL C TYPE: CIRCUIT BREAKERS |
SUB-PANEL C
MANUFACTURER: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
SUB-PANEL C LOCATION: FRONT BASEMENT WORKSHOP |
SUB-PANEL C BREAKERS: GENERAL ELECTRIC |
7.0 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-The electrical panels appeared free of moisture discoloration, corrosion, and deterioration. This is good! See the rest of electrical section for all items inspected. |
7.1 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect lighting controlled by timers, and photo or motion type detectors and only tests a random sampling of the exterior lighting. |
7.2 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The house has an electronic security system which are beyond the scope of the inspection. |
7.3 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3-Emergency house power is automatically transferred supplied during a power company outage, by an Onan RS-45000 GENSET natural gas generator located along the right wall. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not fully inspect home generator systems and only sometimes tests operation as a courtesy by shutting off the main power if components are readily accessible and appear to be straight forward and not technically exhaustive. It is always recommended that any questions and periodic maintenance or needed repairs be addressed by a licensed electrical contractor. This system is new and was NOT tested where it beyond the scope of the inspection. Only the breaker panel beside the electronic transfer panel in the right side high clearance crawlspace was viewed and found adequate.. |
7.4 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12-All readily accessible outlets were tested with a SureTest electrical tester. The outlets were found to be a mix of grounded and ungrounded with the majority being grounded. All outlets are 3-prong, however it is important to note that just because it has 3 prongs, does NOT mean that it is grounded. For example, the round recessed floor outlet in the formal dining room is ungrounded, however the floor outlet in the kitchen is grounded. This should not be expected for a house of this age where most likely all were grounded at the time of inspection. There are many reasons for them being ungrounded, some of which may be a worn outlet, the ground wire could be disconncted, or some outlets may be wired with ungrounded type cable? The outlets have the proper voltage and are functional, however it is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes. It is recommended that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets. -----UPGRADE-----The bathroom and exterior outlets except the one on the front porch are GFCI protected. This is good, however within this property, kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink basin, unfinished basement areas, crawlspace, and exterior outlets should be GFCI protected. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. -----UPGRADE-----There were no AFCI protected bedroom outlets observed. These are NOT required, based on the age of the house, however are always recommended, as a safety upgrade. Please read general GFCI and AFCI information below. GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION: A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). Remember that breakers are designed to protect only the wiring and GFCI's are designed to protect people against electrical shock. It is always recommended that kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink, bathroom outlets, unfinished basement or crawlspace areas, garage, exterior, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpool tubs, or any outlets residing on or by any body of water be upgraded to GFCI type outlets by a licensed electrical contractor. Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. |
7.5 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The bottom receptacle of the exterior outlet located under the pool pump panel on the rear wall has a ground prong stuck in it where repairs are repairs are recommended. |
7.6 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1,2-Both GFCI type electrical outlets on the rear upper deck have the proper voltage, however no longer function as a GFCI where they do not trip and reset. Replacement with new GFCI type outlets is recommended. |
7.7 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1-The electrical system is grounded to an exterior ground rod along the right wall and to the interior water pipes. This is good, however the clamp securing the ground wire to the rod is loose. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to tightening present clamp is possible or the installation of a new clamp. |
7.8 | EXTERIOR LIGHTS, SWITCHES,
OUTLETS (Visible condition and operation) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.9 | SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE
(Visible condition of cable, splices, house connection, porcelain
insulators, mast, masthead or gooseneck, conduit and if limbs or vines are
in the way. Service is run aerially overhead or buried underground. The
home owner's responsibility starts after cable splice where aerial feed is
connected to the house, and for a buried feed at the meter.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.10 | METER BASE TO PANEL (Visible
condition of base, how its attached to house, all cables and connectors,
look for illegal wire taps running to another panel or device which could
severely overload the service utility drop and meter base, and does meter
base amp rating closely match the fuse or circuit breaker panel amp
rating.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.11 | PANELS, FUSE BOXES, AND
SUB-PANELS (Visible condition. Checking panels for proper circuit or fuse
labeling, all circuit breakers same brand name as panel, one main breaker
or disconnect that cuts all power to house. Check that all wires to
single-pole breakers are colored black and not white.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.12 | ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND
(Visible condition. A ground wire bleeds stray voltages to ground and
current should not flow continuously in this wire. A ground wire from the
neutral/grounding bus bar in main panel runs to a grounding electrode or
rod. There should also be a ground wire from the main panel
neutral/grounding bus bar to metal water pipes. Water pipes should be
voltage free. Check water pipes for presence of voltage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.13 | PANEL BONDING STRAP (Visible
condition. A bonding strap or panel bond, is required in every main panel
to connect the neutral/grounding bus bar to the panel frame so that the
metal panel can't shock you if a live wire touches it.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.14 | ARE PANEL FILLER PLATES IN
PLACE WITH NONE MISSING (Filler plates are little knockouts that are
removed from panel front if breakers are installed. If no breaker was
installed, this open spot is where someone could reach in and touch a hot
spot.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.15 | ARE LOCATIONS OF PANELS AND
SUB-PANELS READILY ACCESSIBLE (A countertop or workbench directly in front
of panel makes it not readily accessible. A shorter person won't be able
to reach and shut-off a breaker in an emergency.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.16 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH SERVICE ENTRY CABLE LUG IN MAIN PANEL (This is where the cable from
meter connects into panel. Other wires, called illegal taps, on these two
lugs are left without overcurrent protection. Don't confuse an illegal tap
with surge-protection wiring where two small wires feed into main lugs and
go to a small lightning-surge arrestor.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.17 | IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO
EACH BREAKER SCREW, NEUTRAL OR GROUND BUS SCREW, OR FUSE (Multiple wires
are a sign of an overloaded panel and are dangerous because the wires can
work loose from vibration and become a fire hazard. There is an exception
to the rule: Square D, type-QO, size 15, 20, 30 amp breakers are listed
for up to two 10 gauge wires.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.18 | ARE ALL WIRES TO EACH FUSE OR
CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZED PROPERLY (This occurs if undersize wire is used with
oversize breakers or fuses. This is critical so that whatever load is
connected to the circuit breaker will be properly protected.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
7.19 | ARE ALL WIRES ON 15 0R 20 AMP
CIRCUITS COPPER AND NOT SINGLE STRAND ALUMINUM (Aluminum wired homes built
from 1965 to 1972 have had numerous problems with electrical connections
to receptacles and switches.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.20 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY WATER
DAMAGE (The signs of moisture damage are brown iron stains and white
corrosion on breakers and hot tabs inside panel.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.21 | IS PANEL FREE OF ANY
DETERIORATION (Visible condition looking for signs of arcing, burn marks,
blistering, or discoloration. If breaker wire connection has overheated,
usually because it became loose, there will be discolored or burned
insulation.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.22 | ARE SUB-PANEL GROUNDS
ISOLATED FROM NEUTRALS (A sub-panels most common use is to provide a
secondary panel some distance from the main service panel. In any
sub-panel, grounds and neutrals must be kept separate from each
other.) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.23 | ARE APPROPRIATE OUTLETS GFCI
PROTECTED (A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a safety device that
senses any shock hazard and interrupts the flow of electricity in the
circuit. Receptacles requiring GFCIs are bathrooms, kitchen countertops,
wet bar sinks, garages, pools, spa lights, and any outdoors below
6'6".) Comments: INSPECTED |
7.24 | WERE A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER
OF OUTLETS TESTED (Verify proper outlet operation with a Suretest tester
that tests for proper wiring, reversed polarity, voltage drop, ground
impedance, Ground-to-Neutral voltage, line voltage, high resistance
grounds, and false or bootleg grounds. The tester also verifies GFCI,
ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets. Comments: INSPECTED |
HEAT FOR: FLOOR VENTS & BASEMENT |
LOCATION: RIGHT SIDE CRAWLSPACE |
FUEL SOURCE: NATURAL GAS |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR |
BRAND: LENNOX HIGH EFFICIENCY |
MANUFACTURED: DATED 2005 |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: 130 DEG |
DUCTWORK: METAL RECTANGULAR INSULATED ROUND |
IGNITION SYSTEM: ELECTRONIC AUTO PILOT |
HEAT FOR: MAIN LEVEL CEILING VENTS |
FUEL SOURCE: ELECTRIC |
HEAT TYPE: FORCED AIR HEAT PUMP |
BRAND: LENNOX |
MANUFACTURED: DATED 2005 |
LOCATION: ATTIC |
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP: NO HEAT CHECK - ABOVE 65 OUTSIDE NOT MEASURED |
DUCTWORK: METAL RECTANGULAR INSULATED ROUND |
EMERGENCY HEAT PACK: ELECTRIC COILS |
EMERGENCY HEAT
MEASURED: 104 DEG |
8.0 | HEATING SYSTEM
NATURAL GAS FURNACE LOCATED IN CRAWLSPACE 1,2,3,4-The flame characteristics for the natural gas heating unit located in the right side high clearance crawlspace, appeared good as shown in the picture, indicating proper combustion, the unit is dated 2005 where it is relatively new, and a 2 psi gas regulator is present. The gas furnace is a high-efficiency 90+ AFUE model and NOT a standard 80 AFUE model. This is good! The PVC flue pipe travels out the rear wall under the rear deck area. Please see general information below on the two types. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) The AFUE is the most widely used measure of a furnace's heating efficiency. It measures the amount of heat actually delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that you must supply to the furnace. Thus, a furnace that has an 80% AFUE rating converts 80% of the fuel that you supply to heat -- the other 20% is lost out of the chimney. Note that the AFUE refers only to the unit's fuel efficiency, not its electricity usage. The US Department of Energy (DOE) determined <http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumerinfo/refbriefs/ee8.html> that all furnaces sold in the US must have a minimum AFUE of 78%, beginning January 1, 1992. Mobile home furnaces are required to have a minimum AFUE of 75%. A high-efficiency natural gas furnace, also known as a condensing furnace, is the most energy efficient furnace available. Yielding 88 to 97% efficiency, it provides your home with ideal heating comfort while using less energy than lower efficiency models <midefficiency.asp>. It is designed to extract additional heat from natural gas and, when it does, the flue gases condense, or turn to water -- hence, the name condensing furnace. Significant cost savings The high-tech design of your high-efficiency natural gas furnace squeezes the most heat out of every heating dollar. For every dollar you spend on energy, it produces 88 to 97 cents worth of heat. You could save up to 24% (97 AFUE - 78 AFUE) in energy and related energy costs. Its high-efficiency will also help to insulate you from increasing energy prices. Your heating contractor can assist you in calculating the approximate savings a high-efficiency furnace will bring you. No need for a chimney Another advantage of a high-efficiency natural gas furnace is that it exhausts directly through the basement wall to the outdoors, eliminating the need for a chimney. Some units have a direct source of combustion air from the outdoors, eliminating the need for a separate source of combustion air. This option is especially good for energy-efficient, airtight homes. Flexible furnace placement A high-efficiency furnace is vented directly through an outside wall with low-cost plastic pipe, allowing for flexibility of furnace placement. This offers you the ability to reconfigure your furnace room. The plastic pipe used for exhaust has has to be corrosion resistant and very well could be vinyl: not an issue for this writer but some may find it 'compromising.' Also present is a condensate discharge line. A high efficiency gas furnaces can at times discharge several gallons of combustion produced water per day. Manageable maintenance As with any furnace, an annual maintenance check of your high-efficiency natural gas furnace will help it continue to operate at peak efficiency, last longer, and save you money year after year. |
8.1 | HEATING SYSTEM HEAT PUMP LOCATED IN ATTIC 1-The heat side of heat pump located in the attic could not be operated since it was greater than 65 degrees where damage could result to system components after running the air conditioner. Annual heating system service is always recommended by a licensed heating and air contractor. The electric coil emergency heat, which is separate from the heat pump was tested and found adequate. |
8.2 | HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The attic located heating system is a heat pump, which are usually only effective down to around 35 degrees. At temperatures below 35 degrees it may become necessary to use the electric coil emergency back-up heating system. This must be turned on manually from the thermostat. |
8.3 | HEATING SYSTEM
1,2-(ductwork) The crawlspace located heat and air system ductwork utilizes a germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork. These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Eclipse UV Cleanser produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation. Annual inspection of unit and verification of light bulb is recommended by a ,licensed heating and air contractor. ADDITIONAL ECLIPSE INFORMATION: The Eclipse UV Cleanser is a state of the art air purification system for the purpose of controlling mold, mildew, bacteria, germs, viruses and other DNA living matter which may grow in the HVAC system. Installed in the supply plenum just above the evaporator coil will effectively clean the coil, sensually making the cooling coil "Self cleaning". Your home's indoor air quality is now the subject of major concern. The EPA tells us that the air inside your home can be up to 70 times more polluted than the outdoor environment. Since the early 1970's, home construction has improved, resulting in tighter more efficient homes. A new concern began to arise; Home Indoor Air Quality. More efficient homes lead to poor indoor air because of two reasons. First, very little fresh outdoor air is properly circulated into the home. Second, poor indoor air stays inside the home, continually re-circulating contaminants, which could potentially cause harmful effects. The Eclipse UV Cleanser is a High Output System which makes it the optimal choice for fly by airborne bacteria, utilizing scientifically proven germicidal ultraviolet irradiation, which kills airborne bacteria. *This information was taken from the eclipse website and provided as a courtesy where ACE Home Inspections, LLC neither endorses or makes any claims of accuracy. **Additional information can be obtained at <http://www.eclipseuvcleanser.com/eclipse_uv.htm> **IT IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED THAT ALL MANUFACTURE AND INSTALLER SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS BE FOLLOWED. REFER TO PICTURE 2 WHICH PORTRAYS A SAFETY WARNING. |
8.4 | HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the interior side of ductwork for the heating and cooling system. A ductwork cleaning by a licensed contractor is always recommended, but not required. |
8.5 | HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Visit this web link for a general idea on how long should the components and systems in your home last. http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10382.shtml |
8.6 | CONVENTIONAL HEAT PUMP
(Visible condition and operation. It is an air conditioner that contains a
"reversing" valve to switch between "air conditioner" and "heater" by
changing the direction of Freon flow. Simply, the warm air blowing out of
the outside unit, now blows out of the inside unit to heat the
home.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.7 | WAS CONVENTIONAL HEAT PUMP
CYCLED ONLY IN MODE IT FOUND IN (This is important to prevent possible
compressor damage. If found in the cooling mode, do not run the heat mode.
If found in the heat mode, do not run the cooling mode.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.8 | ELECTRIC FURNACE (Visible
condition and operation. Heat produced by electrical resistance serves as
the main heating source or as auxiliary heat for heat pumps. The electric
furnace does not have a heat exchanger like a gas furnace so there is not
a problem with flue gases. The heat is supplied by a series of coils. Each
coil has a thermal fuse and temperature limit switch.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.9 | INSTALLED HEATING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition and check presence of conditioned air source in all
rooms, furnace blower free of any excess noise or vibration, and return
air filter is present and clean.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.10 | FLUE PIPE AND VENTING
(Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and
clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to
exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.11 | COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY
(Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine
with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a
good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete
combustion.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.12 | WAS HEAT EXCHANGER TEST
PROCEDURE DONE (This procedure ONLY applies to forced-air gas furnaces
that use a blower to distribute heat. Procedure: Check the flame with
blower off, then with blower on. If the main burner characteristics were
normal with the blower off, but change or the flame lifts from the burner
ports, the heat exchanger MAY be faulty.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.13 | WAS GAS FURNACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
8.14 | WAS A TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT
SUPPLY AND RETURN (Typical furnace operating temperatures are: NATURAL
GAS: 130-140 degrees, OIL/PROPANE: 125-135 degrees, ELECTRIC: 110-120
degrees, HEAT PUMP: 95-100 degrees.) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.15 | DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS (Visible
condition, checking fans, pumps, exterior components of ducts and piping,
insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units and
convectors) Comments: INSPECTED |
8.16 | THERMOSTAT (Visible
condition, checking if, level on wall, loose, equipment turns on/off from
thermostat controls.) Comments: INSPECTED |
COOLING FOR: FLOOR VENTS & BASEMENT |
COOLING SYSTEM TYPE: CENTRAL |
MEASURED TEMP AT
SUPPLY: 57 DEG |
MEASURED TEMP AT
RETURN: 77 DEG |
CENTRAL AIR INSIDE
UNIT: LENNOX DATED 2005 5 TON UNIT |
CENTRAL AIR OUTSIDE
UNIT: LENNOX DATED 2005 5 TON UNIT |
COOLING FOR: MAIN LEVEL CEILING VENTS |
COOLING SYSTEM TYPE: CENTRAL |
MEASURED TEMP AT
SUPPLY: 60 DEG |
MEASURED TEMP AT
RETURN: 77 DEG |
CENTRAL AIR INSIDE
UNIT: LENNOX DATED 2005 2.5 TON UNIT |
CENTRAL AIR OUTSIDE
UNIT: LENNOX DATED 2005 2.5 TON UNIT |
9.0 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The conventional heat pump system located in the attic was cycled only in cooling mode. Heating mode was not inspected. (This is important to prevent possible compressor damage. If found in the cooling mode, do not run the heat mode. If found in the heat mode, do not run the cooling mode.) Only cooling mode was inspected because outside temperature was above 65 degrees. |
9.1 | COOLING SYSTEM
1,2-Both exterior located condenser coil cooling units are level on a proper base. This is good! The difference between the measured supply temperature and measured return temperature was 20 degrees for the crawlspace located cooling system, and 17 degrees for the attic located cooling system, both within the normal 14 to 22 degree range. This is good! |
9.2 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The house has two central cooling system which are sometimes referred to as a "split system" where each has an exterior condenser coil unit and an interior evaporator coil unit. The crawlspace located cooling system is on top of the gas furnace, while the attic located cooling system is designed in as part of the electric based heat pump. |
9.3 | COOLING SYSTEM 1-All interior attic evaporator coil units have condensation water that drips down through a primary PVC pipe that runs directly out of the bottom of the coils to the exterior. There is also an emergency drain pan under each coil unit which is there to prevent any leakage from above from getting onto the house ceilings. This emergency pan is supposed to have both or at least one of the following means of overflow protection. A PVC pipe out of the side of the pan to the exterior which allows any water to drain away and/or a float switch to cut power to the unit if a high water level is obtained in the pan. It is always better to have both forms of protection, however only one or the other is required. These are are considered a back-up leak prevention system. *****The emergency pan under the attic evaporator coil unit has only a float switch and NO PVC pipe to the exterior. Back-up prevention enhancements are recommended, but NOT required and may include but are not limited to a PVC drain pipe installed from the pan to the exterior or an additional or second back-up float switch independent of the already present one. Opinions by licensed heat and air contractors on this issue may vary where I recommend your licensed heat and air contractor be consulted for an opinion and correct if necessary. |
9.4 | COOLING SYSTEM 1-The inside air conditioner evaporator unit located in the crawlspace uses an automatic condensate removal pump. It is located on the floor next to the unit and has a 1/2 gallon capacity. More information on this pump can be found at www.lgpc.com. There is also a small emergency drain pan and float switch under the pump unit. If the pump should cease to operated then the float switch would cut the cooling system off before the pan overflows. This is good! |
9.5 | COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION The crawlspace located cooling system is rated at 5 tons and the attic located cooling system at 2.5 tons for a total cooling capacity of 7.5 tons. Using 550 square foot per ton, the 7.5 tons would be adequate to cool about 4025 square feet where the cooling systems are properly sized and should suffice. This is good! GENERAL COOLING UNIT SIZING INFORMATION: The most widely used or generally accepted rule of thumb states 1 ton for every 550 square foot of living space. This design method is based on the floor area of the house. Of all the design methods, only the "square foot method" is at all reasonable. However opinions on a square footage value varies among licensed heating and air contractors where it is can range from 500 to 700 or even 1000 square foot for well-designed and quality-built homes. Rules of thumb are based largely on experience and possibly from poorly insulated and leaky houses of the past and can lead to excess system capacity and higher costs for the homeowner. Opinions by licensed heating and air contractors on this sizing issue may vary where some may say a half ton overall difference one way or the other is acceptable? |
9.6 | INSTALLED COOLING EQUIPMENT
(Visible condition, checking condenser and evaporator units are free of
any excess noise and vibration, condenser unit free of overgrowth, coil
blockage, and sitting level on a slab.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.7 | OUTSIDE CONDENSER UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of compressor, coils, and blower fan. The
compressor compresses low-pressure cold Freon gas, turning it into high
pressure Freon gas that runs through the coils with the fan blowing across
them to dissipate its heat, and condense into a hot Freon liquid. Warm air
should be blowing when you walk by it outside.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.8 | INSIDE EVAPORATOR UNIT
(Visible condition. It consists of a Freon metering device that is either
an expansion valve or capillary tube, coils, and blower fan. Hot Freon
liquid runs through the metering device, evaporates into cold,
low-pressure Freon gas, runs through the coils that allow the gas to
absorb heat and cool the house as the fan blows air through the coil and
out ducts) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.9 | CONDENSATION PAN AND LINES
(Visible condition, checking for leaks, rust or deterioration and where
the line terminates. The pan is where water extracted from the air by the
evaporator runs into. Some systems use a pump to extract water out of the
pan. Central air conditioning systems provide comfort cooling by lowering
air temperature and removing excess moisture.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.10 | WAS TEMPERATURE DROP
MEASUREMENT TAKEN FROM SUPPLY AND RETURN VENTS (A low drop could indicate
low Freon charge. A high drop could indicate a dirty coil, filter or
blower. There are other reasons why the temperature drop is out of range
such as thermostat calibration and humidity.) Comments: INSPECTED |
9.11 | IS COOLING UNIT ADEQUATE FOR
SIZE OF HOUSE (The general rule of thumb is 1 ton for every 550 square
feet of living space.) Comments: INSPECTED |
NUMBER OF FIREPLACES: ONE |
NUMBER OF CHIMNEYS: ONE |
CHIMNEY MATERIAL: BRICK AND MORTAR CERAMIC FLUE LINER |
LOCATION: FAMILY ROOM |
FIREPLACE INFO: FIREBRICK FIREBOX & THROAT WOOD BURNING GAS STARTER |
FIREPLACE INFO: CERAMIC TILE HEARTH |
10.0 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
1-The fireplace gas starter lights with a match after turning on using the safety key type gas valve. ACE Home Inspections, LLC follows the Standards of Practice set forth by the Alabama Building Commission, which does not require home inspectors to light flames or pilots to test gas starters. Be patient when trying to light it for the first time because it may take awhile to purge all the air out of the gas line. |
10.1 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
1,2,3,4-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code. |
10.2 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
1-The fireplace firebrick firebox appeared adequate and free of major cracks, however some areas of mortar are missing on the floor of the firebox between the bricks where further investigation and repair by a licensed fireplace or chimney sweep contractor is recommended. This unit has a ceramic flue liner and is meant for wood burning. |
10.3 | FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION Any future cracks in brick can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing bricks if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece of brick larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. Recommend this work always be performed by a licensed fireplace or chimney seep contractor. (Maintenance tip.) |
10.4 | MASONRY SOLID-FUEL BURNING
FIREPLACES (Visible condition. They are made from solid masonry, bricks,
stone, concrete, mortar and require a footer foundation. All walls exposed
to fire should be lined with firebrick or fire-resistive material.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.5 | HEARTH, MANTLE AND WALL
(Visible condition. A hearth is made of brick, concrete, tile, stone, or
other non-combustible material and must extend at least 16 inches in front
of fireplace opening and at least 8 inches on either side of
opening.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.6 | FIREPLACE FIREBOX (Visible
condition. Fireplace fires are caused by thin walls, combustible
materials, wood mantels, unsafe hearths, damaged dampers, improperly
sealed or cracked fireboxes and from a heavy creosote build-up in
flue.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.7 | DAMPER (Visible condition and
operation. When open the lid forms a barrier that prevents downdrafts and
deflects the air upward. When closed it is used to seal off the flue when
the fireplace is not in use.) Comments: INSPECTED |
10.8 | DOES FIREPLACE CHIMNEY HAVE A
METAL OR CERAMIC FLUE LINER (Visible condition. Check for excess soot and
creosote along interior flue walls. Most fireplaces that are unlined were
built before the 1950's and are made from stone, block, and common brick,
not firebrick. Exterior of fireplace, chimney, flue liner, and firebox
should be free of visible creosote stains leaking out mortar joints, wood
or metal seams, indicating a broken flue liner or firebox.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
10.9 | WAS FIREPLACE AREA CHECKED
WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS Comments: INSPECTED |
FOUNDATION
INFORMATION: FULL CRAWLSPACE |
EXTERIOR WALL
STRUCTURE: CONCRETE BLOCK |
CRAWLSPACE CEILINGS: 2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS 2X10 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS |
FLOOR JOIST SPACING: 16 INCHES |
CENTER PIER
STRUCTURE: STEEL PIPE POSTS CONCRETE BLOCK PIERS |
CRAWLSPACE FLOOR: DIRT FULL PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER |
METHOD USED TO OBSERVE
CRAWLSPACE: WALK/STOOP/CRAWL |
CRAWLSPACE INFO: HIGH CLEARANCE REAR CRAWL LOWER CLEARANCE FRONT BASEMENT ROOMS WITHIN |
11.0 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs only a visual inspection and does not use items such as moisture meters to probe walls for moisture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects which arise after time of inspection. A home inspection is a snap shot in time and lists the condition at time of inspection only. ACE Home Inspection, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and always recommends licensed contractors to perform all repairs. |
11.1 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-The crawlspace areas are covered with a plastic vapor barrier which helps keep inherent ground moisture to a minimum. This is good! |
11.2 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-It appears that the back half of the house had a full high clearance type crawlspace and the front a lower clearance type crawlspace, at the time of construction. Some of the higher the clearance rooms have been filled in with what could be considered basement living space and workshop rooms. Again, these basement rooms are not traditional where the floors consist of a concrete slab, where they all were built overtop a full crawlspace. Essentially the crawlspace is high enough in some areas where a slab could have been poured, however the crawlspace option was chosen instead, most likely to keep all floor s on one level. |
11.3 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2-The areas of open or uncovered concrete block crawlspace and basement foundation walls appear relatively level and free of major cracking and deterioration. Overall crawlspace and basement construction appears adequate with full concrete block walls, 2x8 and 2x10 floor joists spaced 16 inches apart, concrete block and steel pipe posts under doubled up joist beams. The foundation wall block thickness and whether the concrete block openings have been filled with poured concrete are unknowns and beyond the scope of the inspection. *****With all soil-banked basements it can not be stressed enough how important exterior drainage can be! Refer to report section 1 for additional information and recommendations. Water behind a soil-banked concrete block wall can create undo stresses or forces which can over time lead to cracking and serious structural issues. *****ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs a foundation visual inspection looking for cracks, differentials, and other obvious concerns, where the foundation and wall construction and other characteristics such as exact concrete block thickness or grade height are not known and are beyond the scope of the inspection. Refer to the additional information listed below. ADDITIONAL CONCRETE BLOCK WALL INFORMATION: Although a simple mortar construction may be adequate for a small free-standing garden wall, it will not be sufficient for foundations, retaining walls or load-bearing walls in houses. The strength of block construction can be improved by completely filling the voids with concrete, but it is more cost effective use steel reinforcement. Reinforcement can be achieve in several ways. Steel bars (usually called rebar) can be placed vertically within the blocks at evenly spaced intervals. This provides resistance to flexural stress. Steel rebar or steel mesh is placed horizontally between rows of blocks to provide resistance to shear stress. A flexible caulking must be placed at regular intervals in place of mortar to accommodate expansion and contraction of the walls. Without these joints, concrete block walls will inevitably develop cracks. Thickness of Wall Maximum Height* of Backfill (Slab to Grade) 8 inches 4 feet 10 inches 6 feet 12 inches 7 feet *Note: Maximum height refers to the height of the soil against the wall and not the height of the wall itself. *****The 1999 Standard Building Code Table 1804.6.1A requires an 8 foot high wall with 8 foot of backfill to be constructed using a 10 or 12 inch thick concrete block filled with granite, grout, or concrete. It is important to note that the jurisdiction where the house was constructed may not have a concrete block thickness requirement. This information was provided as a courtesy or as general information and is not meant to reflect the actual characteristics of the inspected home. |
11.4 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17-The plumbing fixtures were free of leakage after operating the fixtures. This is good! The main floor kitchen fixtures were viewed from within the rear left side workshop, the main level master and hall bathrooms from within the right side high clearance open crawlspace, and the basement bathroom within the low clearance crawlspace under it. All water and drain piping was free of active leakage after operating the fixtures and the wood members free of major discoloration and deterioration. This is good! The main floor wood members within the finished areas of the basement could not be directly viewed because they are covered with plasterboard.. Some isolated areas of wood members have a slight covering or coating of what may be a moisture discoloration. The crawlspace ground and foundation walls were found to be overall dry and free of standing water. Moisture issues are sometimes difficult to diagnose where a system of trial and error sometimes must be undertaken. Usually the obvious and least costly approaches such as proper soil banking, downspout issues, full plastic vapor barriers, maintenance and repair of water and drain piping, robust ventilation, and the use of dehumidifiers are taken care of before proceeding. The actual wood members appear to be structurally adequate and are just very lightly coated in some areas with a discoloration. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a crawlspace, especially ones where discolorations of any kind were observed which may cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and when all or some of the heating and air ductwork is in the crawlspace where some of the crawlspace air can be recycled throughout the house interior, a licensed contractor is always recommended, but not required, to further investigate, which may include air sample and discoloration testing. Installation of a vent system air cleaning system is always recommended, but not required, especially in a crawlspace or basement containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below. 1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Eclipse UV Cleanser or Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation. 2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands. 3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE CRAWLSPACE WOOD MEMBERS ARE FREE OF MAJOR DISCOLORATION AND DETERIORATION AND ARE STILL STRUCTURALLY ADEQUATE AND ROBUST. SMALL AMOUNTS OF DISCOLORATIONS ARE COMMON WITHIN AN AGED CRAWLSPACE AND USUALLY ONLY CREATE CONCERNS FOR INDIVIDUALS PRONE TO ALLERGIES OR ASTHMA, HOWEVER STILL MERIT CONSIDERATION ALONG WITH PROPER MAINTENANCE AND THE CORRECTION OR REDUCTION OF ANY MOISTURE ISSUES. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: *****An Eclipse UV cleanser has been installed in the crawlspace located ductwork. This is good! Refer to report section 8.3 for additional information on this unit. *****It was stated by owner that previous crawlspace moisture discolorations have been removed by a licensed remediation contractor. This is good! *****Moisture reduction enhancements have been made since construction, such as a full plastic vapor barrier, underground drainage for gutter downspouts, the use of a dehumidifier, and the installation of an ultra-violet cleanser unit in the ductwork. This is good, however additional crawlspace ventilation is always welcomed and could be in the form of a couple automatic fans, one installed in the rear entry right side crawlspace entry door, and another in the workshop door leading into the left side crawlspace cavity, or a series of and which could affix to the existing crawlspace vents. Refer to the sample pictures.. |
11.5 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR 1-The crawlspace and basement concrete block foundation walls appear adequate and free of present and previous major moisture intrusion with the exception of the front left corner of the original house. Owner stated that this was most likely attributed to a yard sprinkler which was dumping water against the wall and that there has not been any active water leakage observed after this was repaired. |
11.6 | BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE,
FOUNDATION INTERIOR
1,2,3,4,5-The center doubled-up load bearing floor joist beside the workshop entry wall in the narrow left side high clearance crawlspace is being supported by a telescoping type adjustable column. Telescopic adjustable columns are not approved in the United States for use a s a permanent support. Telescopic columns are commonly used to adjust or level a structure before installing a permanent column. The use of a telescopic column as a permanent column is a defect because no telescopic adjustable column has been approved by a U.S. evaluation firm, and none of these manufacturers cite an engineering report to prove these columns ability to carry a specific load. According to the IRC - International Residential Code, a steel column is supposed to be at least three inches in diameter. All telescopic columns are less than three inches in diameter. The presence of temporary telescopic columns is also a clue to construction, additions, or renovations that were not properly designed, work that was done without required municipal permits, or structural problems that were not properly addressed. *****Recommend further investigation and repair by a licensed foundation contractor. Repairs may include but are not limited to the installation of a permanent 3 inch diameter steel pipe post that is on a solid poured concrete footer or footer pad. |
11.7 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
of girders, piers, columns, supports, foundation walls, floor joists,
decking and wood members, exposed wiring and plumbing. Check that all wood
is free of visible contact with dirt, there is a vapor barrier covering
dirt floor, and crawlspace is free of visible water and debris and all
areas are accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.8 | CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition
and operation of entry hatches and vents. Check for missing and damaged
vent screens that keep animals out of crawlspace.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.9 | ARE ALL CRAWLSPACE AREAS DRY
AND NOT WET OR UNUSUALLY DAMP (Crawlspace is inherently damp even though
there are no problems with water seepage. It is a result of the capillary
rise of ground moisture which can be reduced by covering the ground with a
plastic vapor barrier and having adequate crawlspace ventilation)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.10 | BASEMENT (Visible condition
of unfinished basement floor, foundation structure, exposed wiring and
plumbing, ceilings, walls, cabinets, shelving and workbenches. Check that
basement is free of visible water and that all basement areas are
accessible.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.11 | BASEMENT (Visible condition
and operation of windows, doors, floor, worksinks, lights, switches, and
outlets. Check that worksinks have an air gap to prevent back
siphonage.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.12 | ARE BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE
ELECTRICAL OUTLETS GFCI PROTECTED Comments: INSPECTED |
11.13 | ARE MASONRY SURFACES FREE OF
EFFLORESCENCE DEPOSITS (These are mineral salts in the masonry that
dissolve in water as it passes through walls and floors. After the water
evaporates from the surface, it deposits these white salts. A thick layer
of efflorescence is an indication of considerable seepage.)
Comments: INSPECTED |
11.14 | ARE FOUNDATION WALLS/FLOORS
FREE OF VISIBLE HORIZONTAL CRACKS, V-CRACKS, OR CRACKS 1/4 INCH OR
LARGER(Horizontal cracks in concrete, brick, or sheetrock could indicate
foundation or structural problems. V-cracks are cracks that are much wider
at the top than the bottom and indicate possible settlement
problems.) Comments: INSPECTED |
11.15 | IS CONCRETE FREE OF SHRINKAGE
OR HAIRLINE CRACKS (These type cracks are normal, cosmetic, usually not
serious and may have been caused from original concrete mix problems or
from settlement after house was constructed. Most likely there should not
be a problem, if the cracks have not worsened with time.) Comments: INSPECTED |
12.0 | COMPLIMENTARY PHOTOS
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27-Complimentary photos. |